DLTX 67 question

Nxslt1

Member
Couple of questions. I've had the carb apart twice because it seems that the tractor isn't getting enough gas. The first day I had it running it would fire up with two turns of the flywheel. Now I have to threaten it before it fires up. I've taken out all plugs and cleaned all passageways twice and made sure nothing is stopped up. I discovered tonight I have to have the idle jet turned out to about 6 turns for it to run smooth but it will not start like that. If I turn it back into to 1.5 to 2 turns out then it will start but once again won't run very smooth until I turn it back out to 5 or 6 turns. Would not having the air filter on affect it this much? Any other suggestions?

Also, I got a gasket kit for it and put it on tonight but the brass nut won't tighten up enough to seal the bowl at all. It bottoms out on the spring way before it ever tightens up. It had a thick rubber gasket under the nut when I took it off the first time last week and I had to put it back on with the thin gasket in the kit to get it to tighten up but still leaks. Are there two different depth brass nuts that go on these carbs? It has the dlt 13 bowl and from what I understand this fits many carbs including the 67.
 
Did you clean the passageways with appropriate drill bits? Sometimes wire or pipe cleaner is not enough to resize them to their proper diameters. Also the bowl must be sealed for the carb to function properly.
 
Passageways are clean and clear. Are there two different brass nuts? The one on there now will never seal up without something extra around the gasket area to keep it from bottoming out on the spring.
 
A piece of dirt the size of a speck of
pepper will upset the balance of these
carburetors. It's not as clean as you
think it is. I've seen many
carburetors not be clean after drill
bit use. I use a piece of welding wire
with a small hook in the end for finish
cleaning. You would be surprised what
comes out after a carburetor is
"clean". Mike
 
Two gaskets won't do it. That rubber gasket that was on it is at least 1/8" thick if not thicker and it barely will get it tight and it still leaks. I don't understand what's messed up about it. I see that the spring has a bigger diameter on one end but is it still suppose to go up in the hole because that's what the nut is bottoming out on?
 
I would say that someone has done a stem threads replace at some time and their threaded stub is too long. You need to show us a few pics for a good answer. I've seen them with welded on pipe thread nipples and huge pipe caps on for nut. Never seen one "bottom out on spring" tho. Show us some pics.
 
(quoted from post at 18:06:22 11/02/17) I would say that someone has done a stem threads replace at some time and their threaded stub is too long. You need to show us a few pics for a good answer. I've seen them with welded on pipe thread nipples and huge pipe caps on for nut. Never seen one "bottom out on spring" tho. Show us some pics.

You sir are very correct. Took it back off tonight and was looking down in the stub and noticed the color didn't look quite right. That's because a stub has been silver soldered onto it. I'll cut it off to the right length tomorrow night. Is there any way somebody could get a measurement from the bowl to the end of the threads? If not I can do some measuring and figure out how long it needs to be.

Is there anywhere I can find a good diagram that shows all of the passages and air/fuel flow for a 67? I found one website that shows to use #40 and #53 drill bits. One passage it shows to use the #53 on but my carb doesn't have that passage. So I'd like to find a diagram of 67.

Also, the four very small holes in the throat of the carb right by the throttle butterfly, are the top two where the idle fuel comes thru or what are they for? I have yet to see any mention of these when looking for info on cleaning the carb. The bottom two look like they are the bowl vent but I have no idea.

Also, I haven't pulled the main jet /nozzle out. I'm not sure it will come out now with the silver solder inside there, but just by shining a light down in it it looks like there are holes in the side of it. Are there? If so it probably needs to come out and those holes cleaned. I really need a diagram.
 
Robert's Carb shop has good videos on carb repair. The holes on the side by the throttle plate are where the idle mixture come thru. Yes the nozzle has several holes that need cleaning. I would recommend you get the video. Ron Mn
 
(quoted from post at 21:21:27 11/02/17) Robert's Carb shop has good videos on carb repair. The holes on the side by the throttle plate are where the idle mixture come thru. Yes the nozzle has several holes that need cleaning. I would recommend you get the video. Ron Mn

Those tiny holes were completely stopped up the last time I had it off. Cleaned them out and it still didn't act right. I'll see if I can get the nozzle out tomorrow.
 
Check the bottom of the fuel bowl (set it on a flat bench )to see if its flat. Take a big punch and a hammer too it . I do that to all my carbs .
 
You need a # 58 drill (get at fastenal) for those pin ports in bore. The measurement is 5/8" from stem shoulder out to end of threads.Just put bowl on and grind threads back so about 1/4" shows. Make sure you have the bowl gasket and the bowl nut gasket on before this measurement. Sounds like the actual shoulder on the stem is probably too goobered up to use that as a reference point. If your carb doesn't have the secret passage that takes the # 53 bit, then probably same person who repaired the stem threads welded it shut or it was broken up too high to have been repaired and the weld had to go through the part where that brass screw was and the passage behind it. If that's the case, it's probably junk. I have a perfect re-built 67 if you find you are in the market. $ 333.00 free ship.
a177214.jpg

a177215.jpg
 
The brass screw circled is where you use the 53 bit. Passage in behind screw. This is what an original stem/threads look like. I'm sure you can now see what a mess your is.
a177216.jpg
 
I don't remember what diagram I was looking at (I've looked at a bunch) but that secret passage is there and clear as are all the idle passages.

It looks like they cut the entire stub off and soldered a new one on. I determined I needed about .300 threads showing with the bowl on so that's pretty close to your 1/4". I ground it down last night and the nut tightens up great now. No leaks anymore.

Are all four of the small holes in the bore for idle mixture? It doesn't appear that they are because the top two are in the idle passage and the bottom two are in a different passage that I don't know what is for. It looks like it goes to a hole in the underside of the carb in the bowl area. Is that just a vent or is that something to do with the carbs that had an economize plug? That passage runs the entire length of the carb. I don't understand what it's for. Look to the left of your circle. That's what I'm talking about. It appears that passage goes to that brass vent looking thing. Is that just a vent?
 
The two holes close together are idle fuel and the two wider apart are idle / transition air. They all need to be open for proper idle/acceleration and mid range. They take the place of the economizer plug on older carbs. Yes , that brass vent baffle is to keep fuel from splashing up into vent hole because they raised the float level in later (67 & 71 ) carbs. There are two of them in there and then the actual vent hole is accessible. Usually you ruin then removing them but that's the only way to make sure the vent hole above them is completely open. They are only a dollar or two ea. If that vent is plugged they will usually run fuel out the front of carb as soon as you turn gas on to carb. You can use a torch tip cleaner bent at a right angle to test those pin ports in throttle bore. You should be able to see the tip when looking through the brass screw holes. BUT, the only way to make sure they are the correct size is to buy a # 58 drill bit from fastenal and drive those two little brass access plugs in from the side and drill them (by hand) with bit. You can re-use those plugs with a little silicone sealer on them when driving them back in. About any tractor will run good on the load circuit. These little things are what makes them idle / fast idle correctly. I have a couple other little "secrets " to make them idle even better than when new.
 
I appreciate the info, you've been a big help with understanding what all the different passages do. I've had this carb off three times now and all passages are clean and clear and drilled and it still won't even start now. It started, idled and drove just fine even lugging at lower rpm in high gear for two days even with all four of those small holes completely stopped up then all the sudden it won't even start. I noticed last night the points looked like they have been arcing. I just filed them down clean last week so I'm gonna replace the condenser and see what happens.
 
Found the problem tonight. Broke spring on the magneto. I didn't think it was clicking loud enough but this is my first John deere so I didn't really know for sure. I had it apart a few days ago but didn't notice the spring being broke. Borrowed a mag from a friend and it finally fired up and ran 3 or 4 times in a row. The carb is another issue. I have to run the idle screw out 4.5 turns or it won't hardly idle. It takes awhile to get it started. I noticed tonight when I was rocking it back and forth on the intake stroke trying to get enough gas in the cylinders that whenever I rolled it backwards smoke would come out of the choke and throttle shafts, at least one of the idle passage plugs and no telling where else. So a carb rebuild kit is on order. Maybe that'll make it start a lot easier.
 

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