John Deere 24 Volt System

I feel compelled to address the Deere-Delco 24 Volt System. I am usually nasty and sarcastic, but this time I mean no disrespect to anyone. However, I have taught 24 Volt seminars at Gathering of the Green for 12 years and have published several articles on the topic in "Green Magazine." I have been working on the system for 54 years(not the same tractor). I would be derelict in my responsibility to my hundreds of former students and readers if I didn't clarify some of the misconceptions about the subject. Before I published a word, I confirmed my conclusions with the head of the electrical engineering department at a major university.

Starting and charging are fairly straight forward. The chassis is nor used for starting or charging as the frame may as well been made out of wood or plastic. The starter, generator and regulator are isolated from the frame and each have a dedicated wire back to the positive terminal of one of the batteries. This concept is not unique as the fiberglass body Corvette has dedicated wires for body grounding. For starting, the middle wire connected from chassis to the midpoint of the batteries has absolutely no bearing whether it is hooked up or in the glove compartment of your pickup. Oops, there is that sarcasm creeping through. The generator charges the batteries in series with the regulator set at about 28 volts.

Complexity begins when we add lights, fuel gauge and outlet socket to the system. To save money Deere had Delco devise a way to use 12 volt bulbs, fuel gauge, and sending unit that were the same as used on the conventional gasoline tractors. Also a middle wire(as previously discussed) was added. The importance of the middle wire has been overstressed. The wire is there more as a default mode in case a bulb burns out or someone adds a spotlight or somehow unbalances the circuitry.

Here is how the lights work. For the sake of simplicity let us start with the 720 diesel with one set of headlights. We will be physicists instead of engineers for this exercise and have electricity flow from negative to positive. We will use two 12 volt batteries in series instead of 4. 1) We start at the negative terminal of one battery with a heavy cable to the top terminal of the solenoid. 2) Now we go from the top terminal of the solenoid with a smaller wire to the BAT terminal of the regulator. 3) From there we go to the A terminal of the switch which is a double pole single throw. This simply means two sets of contacts controlled by one lever. 4) We turn the switch and connect terminal A to the terminal that goes by wire to the left headlight. Current goes through the bulb and out the base which is connected to the frame of the tractor. Current now flows through the frame(think of it as a giant wire) and enters the right hand bulb THROUGH THE BASE which is bolted to the frame. 5)Current now flows through the right hand bulb the reverse way and goes down the wire to the switch terminal for the right hand headlight. 6) Remember this is a double contact switch. Since the contacts are closed, headlight 2 terminal is connected to terminal B of the switch. 7) Current now flows from terminal B to the case of the voltage regulator and from there to the isolated terminal on the side of the starter and then to the positive terminal of the other battery and the circuit is complete.

Notice that we don't need the middle wire for this. The bulbs are the same wattage and are 12 volt, but they are in series and the 24 volts split evenly giving each bulb 12 volts. If we hook the positive lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery and put the negative lead of the voltmeter on terminal A of the switch it will read 24 Volts. If we put the negative lead of the meter on the frame it will read 12 volts, and if we put the negative lead on terminal B it will read 0.

Much has bee said about John Deere Bulletin 268 and a lot of talk about two 12 volt circuits with one negative and one positive. This was probably written to try and simplify a series parallel circuit and probable by technical writers rather than engineers, It just doesn't work that way. Deere is NOT infallible. The 730 was rated as a 5 plow tractor. It would only pull 5 if you didn't put it in the ground! For example, Let's take the batteries out of the tractor and put them on the floor. We can pull start the tractor and the lights will run totally off the generator. Obviously there are now NO positive and negative 12 volt circuits. 28 Volts are coming out the A1 terminal of the generator to terminal A of the switch. The Left light gets 14 volts, current travels through the frame and enters the right light the reverse way which gets the remaining 14 volts. Current travels through terminal B and then returns to the A2 terminal of the generator to complete the circuit The ONLY Negative is the A1 terminal of the generator and the ONLY positive is the A2 terminal of the generator. There is only one 28 Volt circuit.

As stated earlier the middle wire is mostly a default mode. In a healthy system there is very little current flowing through the middle wire. In fact a healthy system will work fine with the wire removed. However it is useful. In the generator scenario described above, if one of the lights burned out we have neither since it is a series circuit. Even if we put the batteries back in a burned bulb will be lights out. With the middle wire in we now have a series-Parallel circuit and current can go an alternate route, Let us have the right bulb burn out. Current goes through the switch and light from terminal A and through the frame. Since the right bulb is out current goes DOWN the middle wire and through the battery to complete the circuit. Let us take the opposite case where the left bulb burns out. Current Now flows through the battery and UP the middle wire and through the right hand light and through the switch back to the other battery to complete the circuit Notice in the first case current flowed down the middle wire and up the middle wire in the second case. Both cases are 28 Volt circuits. There are no 12 positive and 12 negative circuits in spite of Bulletin 268! For there to be two different circuits of different polarity current would have to be flowing both UP and DOWN the middle wire at the same time and current would have to be backing up against the generator. This concept is both preposterous and impossible.

Conclusions: I have gone on far too long. Bulletin 268 is useful for a good diagram, voltage drop and field resistance data, and some good trouble shooting techniques but has over simplified the explanation of how it works. We have just scratched the surface of the 24Volt system here. We didn't talk about the fuel gauge, the generator light, the remote socket or unbalanced loads except for the burned bulb examples. If you want to learn more about 24 Volts and some great seminars ranging from painting to carburetor diagnosis and over haul come to Gathering of the Green at Davenport, Iowa March 21, 22, 23, an24, My presentation will be in color on power point with lots of diagrams and pictures. Thanks for reading this.
 
If the 24 volt system was good then why didn't Deere use untill the end of 4020 production? I have changed all my 24 volt tractors over to alt. and 12 volts and now have no problems. Mine are all work tractors and the problems of 24 volt were not worth putting up with when something so much better is available. I do want to thank you for your article as I am always interested in learning more. I can also understand why a collecter with a rare tractor would want to keep it original.When new it might have been the best option available for Deere to use. Tom
 
What's the name of the major university and what's the name of the head of the electrical engineering department?
 
Very good explanation. I have a good understanding of how these systems are supposed to work and your examples are accurate and easy to understand. It can get confusing when there is a short somewhere and things start to backfeed through other circuits and weird things happen. I think it would be interesting to see your seminar sometime.
 
Here we go again.

In a nutshell Delco made it and supplied the service manual to Deere just like Marvel Sheibler did with the carbs. I suppose you could be right and the manufacturer didn't know what they were doing but somehow they managed to stay in business and at the top for decade after decade so I kinda think they knew a thing or two. JMO

BTW Delco supplied that same generator system on Detroit 353 power units in the early sixties. Can't remember if it was Red Seal on another name but I still have one hooked up to my sawmill.
 
With the MT40 size starter like in 5010-5020, the 24V system cranks much faster than the 12V. It is a good system.

I think the electrical circuit quality was improved a lot from the 10 series to the 20 series. A 10 series harness is not very good, and they should all be rewired entirely with modern harnesses if someone wants to use them. I would not own one without a battery cutoff.
 
(quoted from post at 23:05:28 10/30/17) What's the name of the major university and what's the name of the head of the electrical engineering department?

DITTO.
erskine2017
So are you implying dash lights & 12 VOLT fuel gauge will operate correctly without the ground wire on LH rear + battery post to frame?
 
Tx Jim, that is a good question. The dash light and fuel gauge will NOT come on if the middle wire is unhooked. However, when you turn the lights on they will both work. Current comes from A terminal to fuel and dash terminal and goes to the frame and down the middle wire and returns to the battery from which it came with the tractor not running. With no middle wire nothing happens. With the lights on however the dash and gauge will find a path to the second battery through the right light even though the wire is unhooked provided the right light is not burned out.
 
Good overview of the 24v system. Seems there are 2 courts on this system ---- either love it or hate it. I, for one, am in the love it category. 24v system really cranks my 4010 diesel like crazy even in cold weather. I find that provided you keep the system clean (connections secured and cleaned) and batteries strong it's a great system. I periodically also clean out the starter and generator of carbon from the brushes. Plus you have to understand the system as you described.

Thanks for the post!
 

61-4010
If your 24 volt system doesn't have the field installed circuit breaker kit installed I will advise to install because I've witnessed several 24 volt wiring harness's without circuit breaker kit go up in SMOKE.

I think the newer style 12 volt starters such as my 4255 has will spin a diesel engine as good or better as a 24 volt starter.
 
(quoted from post at 01:39:44 10/31/17) I feel compelled to address the Deere-Delco 24 Volt System. I am usually nasty and sarcastic, but this time I mean no disrespect to anyone. However, I have taught 24 Volt seminars at Gathering of the Green for 12 years and have published several articles on the topic in "Green Magazine." I have been working on the system for 54 years(not the same tractor). I would be derelict in my responsibility to my hundreds of former students and readers if I didn't clarify some of the misconceptions about the subject. Before I published a word, I confirmed my conclusions with the head of the electrical engineering department at a major university.

Starting and charging are fairly straight forward. The chassis is nor used for starting or charging as the frame may as well been made out of wood or plastic. The starter, generator and regulator are isolated from the frame and each have a dedicated wire back to the positive terminal of one of the batteries. This concept is not unique as the fiberglass body Corvette has dedicated wires for body grounding. For starting, the middle wire connected from chassis to the midpoint of the batteries has absolutely no bearing whether it is hooked up or in the glove compartment of your pickup. Oops, there is that sarcasm creeping through. The generator charges the batteries in series with the regulator set at about 28 volts.

Complexity begins when we add lights, fuel gauge and outlet socket to the system. To save money Deere had Delco devise a way to use 12 volt bulbs, fuel gauge, and sending unit that were the same as used on the conventional gasoline tractors. Also a middle wire(as previously discussed) was added. The importance of the middle wire has been overstressed. The wire is there more as a default mode in case a bulb burns out or someone adds a spotlight or somehow unbalances the circuitry.

Here is how the lights work. For the sake of simplicity let us start with the 720 diesel with one set of headlights. We will be physicists instead of engineers for this exercise and have electricity flow from negative to positive. We will use two 12 volt batteries in series instead of 4. 1) We start at the negative terminal of one battery with a heavy cable to the top terminal of the solenoid. 2) Now we go from the top terminal of the solenoid with a smaller wire to the BAT terminal of the regulator. 3) From there we go to the A terminal of the switch which is a double pole single throw. This simply means two sets of contacts controlled by one lever. 4) We turn the switch and connect terminal A to the terminal that goes by wire to the left headlight. Current goes through the bulb and out the base which is connected to the frame of the tractor. Current now flows through the frame(think of it as a giant wire) and enters the right hand bulb THROUGH THE BASE which is bolted to the frame. 5)Current now flows through the right hand bulb the reverse way and goes down the wire to the switch terminal for the right hand headlight. 6) Remember this is a double contact switch. Since the contacts are closed, headlight 2 terminal is connected to terminal B of the switch. 7) Current now flows from terminal B to the case of the voltage regulator and from there to the isolated terminal on the side of the starter and then to the positive terminal of the other battery and the circuit is complete.

Notice that we don't need the middle wire for this. The bulbs are the same wattage and are 12 volt, but they are in series and the 24 volts split evenly giving each bulb 12 volts. If we hook the positive lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery and put the negative lead of the voltmeter on terminal A of the switch it will read 24 Volts. If we put the negative lead of the meter on the frame it will read 12 volts, and if we put the negative lead on terminal B it will read 0.

Much has bee said about John Deere Bulletin 268 and a lot of talk about two 12 volt circuits with one negative and one positive. This was probably written to try and simplify a series parallel circuit and probable by technical writers rather than engineers, It just doesn't work that way. Deere is NOT infallible. The 730 was rated as a 5 plow tractor. It would only pull 5 if you didn't put it in the ground! For example, Let's take the batteries out of the tractor and put them on the floor. We can pull start the tractor and the lights will run totally off the generator. Obviously there are now NO positive and negative 12 volt circuits. 28 Volts are coming out the A1 terminal of the generator to terminal A of the switch. The Left light gets 14 volts, current travels through the frame and enters the right light the reverse way which gets the remaining 14 volts. Current travels through terminal B and then returns to the A2 terminal of the generator to complete the circuit The ONLY Negative is the A1 terminal of the generator and the ONLY positive is the A2 terminal of the generator. There is only one 28 Volt circuit.

As stated earlier the middle wire is mostly a default mode. In a healthy system there is very little current flowing through the middle wire. In fact a healthy system will work fine with the wire removed. However it is useful. In the generator scenario described above, if one of the lights burned out we have neither since it is a series circuit. Even if we put the batteries back in a burned bulb will be lights out. With the middle wire in we now have a series-Parallel circuit and current can go an alternate route, Let us have the right bulb burn out. Current goes through the switch and light from terminal A and through the frame. Since the right bulb is out current goes DOWN the middle wire and through the battery to complete the circuit. Let us take the opposite case where the left bulb burns out. Current Now flows through the battery and UP the middle wire and through the right hand light and through the switch back to the other battery to complete the circuit Notice in the first case current flowed down the middle wire and up the middle wire in the second case. Both cases are 28 Volt circuits. There are no 12 positive and 12 negative circuits in spite of Bulletin 268! For there to be two different circuits of different polarity current would have to be flowing both UP and DOWN the middle wire at the same time and current would have to be backing up against the generator. This concept is both preposterous and impossible.

Conclusions: I have gone on far too long. Bulletin 268 is useful for a good diagram, voltage drop and field resistance data, and some good trouble shooting techniques but has over simplified the explanation of how it works. We have just scratched the surface of the 24Volt system here. We didn't talk about the fuel gauge, the generator light, the remote socket or unbalanced loads except for the burned bulb examples. If you want to learn more about 24 Volts and some great seminars ranging from painting to carburetor diagnosis and over haul come to Gathering of the Green at Davenport, Iowa March 21, 22, 23, an24, My presentation will be in color on power point with lots of diagrams and pictures. Thanks for reading this.


Tom and others, with all due respect to an old friend and remember I'm ONLY here (been here since early nineties) to HELP and educate and mean no harm or ill will whatsoever.

THE CHOICE IS SIMPLE, YOU CAN BELIEVE JOHN DEERE OR YOU CAN BELIEVE TOM who I found to be a kind gentleman in all my dealings and friendship with him. I'm confident he means well and like me tries his best to help. God Bless him for that.

IS TOM RIGHT AND JOHN DEERE WRONG ????????????? TAKE YOUR CHOICE

As a retired Electrical Engineer who has written several electrical articles for Green Magazine, who has presented electrical seminars at Gathering of the Green, Two Cylinder Expo, and the New York State Two Cylinder Expo, who was a farmer and used tractor dealer who had to troubleshoot and repair tractors for years

MY CHOICE IS JOHN DEERE WHEN THEY PUBLISHED THAT BELOW, because in repair and troubleshooting and both in theory and engineering practice, I FOUND WHAT JOHN DEERE PUBLISHED BELOW WAS TRUE AND ACCURATE !!!!!!!!!!!!!

FROM JOHN DEERE SERVICE BULLETIN NO 268 DATED AUGUST 1958

The Electrical system used on John Deere Diesel ( E l e c t r i c Cranking) Tractors is a 24-volt split-load system using 24 volts for the cranking and charging circuits and 12-volt circuits for the lighting and accessory load.

A 24-volt generator, controlled by a 24-volt regulator, supplies current to carry the electrical load and charge the four 6-volt batteries connected in series which supply current at 24 volts for cranking the engine. The cranking circuit and the charging circuit are two-wire circuits- the entire circuit is carried through wires and no part of it is grounded to the tractor frame.

Two 12-volt circuits are obtained by installing a ground wire between the second and third batteries in the circuit and the tractor frame. Also, the combination switch is in reality two separate switches enclosed in a single housing and operated by a single lever. One of these switches controls current to approximately l/2 of the load, the current being supplied by two of the batteries. The other switch controls current to the remaining 1/2 of the load, current being supplied by the two remaining batteries.

There you go, was John Deere correct or not ??????????? In 50 years of farming and tractor sales and repair and troubleshooting and as an electrical engineer I FOUND THE ABOVE TO BE TRUE.

PS INDEED as the JD wiring diagrams show and as they were wired from the factory, one battery is POS grounded and the other is NEG grounded and 12 volt lights on BOTH batteries work and current flows and such IS NOT ABSURD or strange as Tom would have you believe. JD design and diagrams and builds DO WORK YOU KNOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!

AGAIN WITH ALL DUE RESPECT AND NO HARM INTENDED JUST BECAUSE I CHOSE WHAT JOHN DEEERE PUBLISHED OVER TOM I found TxJim and my other old friend Buickndeere (gave an excellent 24 volt seminar at New York Expo) as the best informed and the GO TO GUYS when it comes to John Deere 24 volt system............

Bless Tom and all here

John T Retired Electrical Engineer
 
(quoted from post at 09:31:19 10/31/17)
(quoted from post at 01:39:44 10/31/17) I feel compelled to address the Deere-Delco 24 Volt System. I am usually nasty and sarcastic, but this time I mean no disrespect to anyone. However, I have taught 24 Volt seminars at Gathering of the Green for 12 years and have published several articles on the topic in "Green Magazine." I have been working on the system for 54 years(not the same tractor). I would be derelict in my responsibility to my hundreds of former students and readers if I didn't clarify some of the misconceptions about the subject. Before I published a word, I confirmed my conclusions with the head of the electrical engineering department at a major university.

Starting and charging are fairly straight forward. The chassis is nor used for starting or charging as the frame may as well been made out of wood or plastic. The starter, generator and regulator are isolated from the frame and each have a dedicated wire back to the positive terminal of one of the batteries. This concept is not unique as the fiberglass body Corvette has dedicated wires for body grounding. For starting, the middle wire connected from chassis to the midpoint of the batteries has absolutely no bearing whether it is hooked up or in the glove compartment of your pickup. Oops, there is that sarcasm creeping through. The generator charges the batteries in series with the regulator set at about 28 volts.

Complexity begins when we add lights, fuel gauge and outlet socket to the system. To save money Deere had Delco devise a way to use 12 volt bulbs, fuel gauge, and sending unit that were the same as used on the conventional gasoline tractors. Also a middle wire(as previously discussed) was added. The importance of the middle wire has been overstressed. The wire is there more as a default mode in case a bulb burns out or someone adds a spotlight or somehow unbalances the circuitry.

Here is how the lights work. For the sake of simplicity let us start with the 720 diesel with one set of headlights. We will be physicists instead of engineers for this exercise and have electricity flow from negative to positive. We will use two 12 volt batteries in series instead of 4. 1) We start at the negative terminal of one battery with a heavy cable to the top terminal of the solenoid. 2) Now we go from the top terminal of the solenoid with a smaller wire to the BAT terminal of the regulator. 3) From there we go to the A terminal of the switch which is a double pole single throw. This simply means two sets of contacts controlled by one lever. 4) We turn the switch and connect terminal A to the terminal that goes by wire to the left headlight. Current goes through the bulb and out the base which is connected to the frame of the tractor. Current now flows through the frame(think of it as a giant wire) and enters the right hand bulb THROUGH THE BASE which is bolted to the frame. 5)Current now flows through the right hand bulb the reverse way and goes down the wire to the switch terminal for the right hand headlight. 6) Remember this is a double contact switch. Since the contacts are closed, headlight 2 terminal is connected to terminal B of the switch. 7) Current now flows from terminal B to the case of the voltage regulator and from there to the isolated terminal on the side of the starter and then to the positive terminal of the other battery and the circuit is complete.

Notice that we don't need the middle wire for this. The bulbs are the same wattage and are 12 volt, but they are in series and the 24 volts split evenly giving each bulb 12 volts. If we hook the positive lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery and put the negative lead of the voltmeter on terminal A of the switch it will read 24 Volts. If we put the negative lead of the meter on the frame it will read 12 volts, and if we put the negative lead on terminal B it will read 0.

Much has bee said about John Deere Bulletin 268 and a lot of talk about two 12 volt circuits with one negative and one positive. This was probably written to try and simplify a series parallel circuit and probable by technical writers rather than engineers, It just doesn't work that way. Deere is NOT infallible. The 730 was rated as a 5 plow tractor. It would only pull 5 if you didn't put it in the ground! For example, Let's take the batteries out of the tractor and put them on the floor. We can pull start the tractor and the lights will run totally off the generator. Obviously there are now NO positive and negative 12 volt circuits. 28 Volts are coming out the A1 terminal of the generator to terminal A of the switch. The Left light gets 14 volts, current travels through the frame and enters the right light the reverse way which gets the remaining 14 volts. Current travels through terminal B and then returns to the A2 terminal of the generator to complete the circuit The ONLY Negative is the A1 terminal of the generator and the ONLY positive is the A2 terminal of the generator. There is only one 28 Volt circuit.

As stated earlier the middle wire is mostly a default mode. In a healthy system there is very little current flowing through the middle wire. In fact a healthy system will work fine with the wire removed. However it is useful. In the generator scenario described above, if one of the lights burned out we have neither since it is a series circuit. Even if we put the batteries back in a burned bulb will be lights out. With the middle wire in we now have a series-Parallel circuit and current can go an alternate route, Let us have the right bulb burn out. Current goes through the switch and light from terminal A and through the frame. Since the right bulb is out current goes DOWN the middle wire and through the battery to complete the circuit. Let us take the opposite case where the left bulb burns out. Current Now flows through the battery and UP the middle wire and through the right hand light and through the switch back to the other battery to complete the circuit Notice in the first case current flowed down the middle wire and up the middle wire in the second case. Both cases are 28 Volt circuits. There are no 12 positive and 12 negative circuits in spite of Bulletin 268! For there to be two different circuits of different polarity current would have to be flowing both UP and DOWN the middle wire at the same time and current would have to be backing up against the generator. This concept is both preposterous and impossible.

Conclusions: I have gone on far too long. Bulletin 268 is useful for a good diagram, voltage drop and field resistance data, and some good trouble shooting techniques but has over simplified the explanation of how it works. We have just scratched the surface of the 24Volt system here. We didn't talk about the fuel gauge, the generator light, the remote socket or unbalanced loads except for the burned bulb examples. If you want to learn more about 24 Volts and some great seminars ranging from painting to carburetor diagnosis and over haul come to Gathering of the Green at Davenport, Iowa March 21, 22, 23, an24, My presentation will be in color on power point with lots of diagrams and pictures. Thanks for reading this.


Tom and others, with all due respect to an old friend and remember I'm ONLY here (been here since early nineties) to HELP and educate and mean no harm or ill will whatsoever.

THE CHOICE IS SIMPLE, YOU CAN BELIEVE JOHN DEERE OR YOU CAN BELIEVE TOM who I found to be a kind gentleman in all my dealings and friendship with him. I'm confident he means well and like me tries his best to help. God Bless him for that.

IS TOM RIGHT AND JOHN DEERE WRONG ????????????? TAKE YOUR CHOICE

As a retired Electrical Engineer who has written several electrical articles for Green Magazine, who has presented electrical seminars at Gathering of the Green, Two Cylinder Expo, and the New York State Two Cylinder Expo, who was a farmer and used tractor dealer who had to troubleshoot and repair tractors for years

MY CHOICE IS JOHN DEERE WHEN THEY PUBLISHED THAT BELOW, because in repair and troubleshooting and both in theory and engineering practice, I FOUND WHAT JOHN DEERE PUBLISHED BELOW WAS TRUE AND ACCURATE !!!!!!!!!!!!!

FROM JOHN DEERE SERVICE BULLETIN NO 268 DATED AUGUST 1958

The Electrical system used on John Deere Diesel ( E l e c t r i c Cranking) Tractors is a 24-volt split-load system using 24 volts for the cranking and charging circuits and 12-volt circuits for the lighting and accessory load.

A 24-volt generator, controlled by a 24-volt regulator, supplies current to carry the electrical load and charge the four 6-volt batteries connected in series which supply current at 24 volts for cranking the engine. The cranking circuit and the charging circuit are two-wire circuits- the entire circuit is carried through wires and no part of it is grounded to the tractor frame.

Two 12-volt circuits are obtained by installing a ground wire between the second and third batteries in the circuit and the tractor frame. Also, the combination switch is in reality two separate switches enclosed in a single housing and operated by a single lever. One of these switches controls current to approximately l/2 of the load, the current being supplied by two of the batteries. The other switch controls current to the remaining 1/2 of the load, current being supplied by the two remaining batteries.

There you go, was John Deere correct or not ??????????? In 50 years of farming and tractor sales and repair and troubleshooting and as an electrical engineer I FOUND THE ABOVE TO BE TRUE.

PS INDEED as the JD wiring diagrams show and as they were wired from the factory, one battery is POS grounded and the other is NEG grounded and 12 volt lights on BOTH batteries work and current flows and such IS NOT ABSURD or strange as Tom would have you believe. JD design and diagrams and builds DO WORK YOU KNOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!

AGAIN WITH ALL DUE RESPECT AND NO HARM INTENDED JUST BECAUSE I CHOSE WHAT JOHN DEEERE PUBLISHED OVER TOM I found TxJim and my other old friend Buickndeere (gave an excellent 24 volt seminar at New York Expo) as the best informed and the GO TO GUYS when it comes to John Deere 24 volt system............

Bless Tom and all here

John T Retired Electrical Engineer


John Deere and Tom are not contradicting each other. Or explain where. There is no mention whatsoever of a plus a minus 12v circuit. Plus the mention of 1/2 of the current not tension clearly means that we are talking system in series.
 
(quoted from post at 20:39:44 10/30/17) I feel compelled to address the Deere-Delco 24 Volt System. I am usually nasty and sarcastic, but this time I mean no disrespect to anyone. However, I have taught 24 Volt seminars at Gathering of the Green for 12 years and have published several articles on the topic in "Green Magazine." I have been working on the system for 54 years(not the same tractor). I would be derelict in my responsibility to my hundreds of former students and readers if I didn't clarify some of the misconceptions about the subject. Before I published a word, I confirmed my conclusions with the head of the electrical engineering department at a major university.

Starting and charging are fairly straight forward. The chassis is nor used for starting or charging as the frame may as well been made out of wood or plastic. The starter, generator and regulator are isolated from the frame and each have a dedicated wire back to the positive terminal of one of the batteries. This concept is not unique as the fiberglass body Corvette has dedicated wires for body grounding. For starting, the middle wire connected from chassis to the midpoint of the batteries has absolutely no bearing whether it is hooked up or in the glove compartment of your pickup. Oops, there is that sarcasm creeping through. The generator charges the batteries in series with the regulator set at about 28 volts.

Complexity begins when we add lights, fuel gauge and outlet socket to the system. To save money Deere had Delco devise a way to use 12 volt bulbs, fuel gauge, and sending unit that were the same as used on the conventional gasoline tractors. Also a middle wire(as previously discussed) was added. The importance of the middle wire has been overstressed. The wire is there more as a default mode in case a bulb burns out or someone adds a spotlight or somehow unbalances the circuitry.

Here is how the lights work. For the sake of simplicity let us start with the 720 diesel with one set of headlights. We will be physicists instead of engineers for this exercise and have electricity flow from negative to positive. We will use two 12 volt batteries in series instead of 4. 1) We start at the negative terminal of one battery with a heavy cable to the top terminal of the solenoid. 2) Now we go from the top terminal of the solenoid with a smaller wire to the BAT terminal of the regulator. 3) From there we go to the A terminal of the switch which is a double pole single throw. This simply means two sets of contacts controlled by one lever. 4) We turn the switch and connect terminal A to the terminal that goes by wire to the left headlight. Current goes through the bulb and out the base which is connected to the frame of the tractor. Current now flows through the frame(think of it as a giant wire) and enters the right hand bulb THROUGH THE BASE which is bolted to the frame. 5)Current now flows through the right hand bulb the reverse way and goes down the wire to the switch terminal for the right hand headlight. 6) Remember this is a double contact switch. Since the contacts are closed, headlight 2 terminal is connected to terminal B of the switch. 7) Current now flows from terminal B to the case of the voltage regulator and from there to the isolated terminal on the side of the starter and then to the positive terminal of the other battery and the circuit is complete.

Notice that we don't need the middle wire for this. The bulbs are the same wattage and are 12 volt, but they are in series and the 24 volts split evenly giving each bulb 12 volts. If we hook the positive lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery and put the negative lead of the voltmeter on terminal A of the switch it will read 24 Volts. If we put the negative lead of the meter on the frame it will read 12 volts, and if we put the negative lead on terminal B it will read 0.

Much has bee said about John Deere Bulletin 268 and a lot of talk about two 12 volt circuits with one negative and one positive. This was probably written to try and simplify a series parallel circuit and probable by technical writers rather than engineers, It just doesn't work that way. Deere is NOT infallible. The 730 was rated as a 5 plow tractor. It would only pull 5 if you didn't put it in the ground! For example, Let's take the batteries out of the tractor and put them on the floor. We can pull start the tractor and the lights will run totally off the generator. Obviously there are now NO positive and negative 12 volt circuits. 28 Volts are coming out the A1 terminal of the generator to terminal A of the switch. The Left light gets 14 volts, current travels through the frame and enters the right light the reverse way which gets the remaining 14 volts. Current travels through terminal B and then returns to the A2 terminal of the generator to complete the circuit The ONLY Negative is the A1 terminal of the generator and the ONLY positive is the A2 terminal of the generator. There is only one 28 Volt circuit.

As stated earlier the middle wire is mostly a default mode. In a healthy system there is very little current flowing through the middle wire. In fact a healthy system will work fine with the wire removed. However it is useful. In the generator scenario described above, if one of the lights burned out we have neither since it is a series circuit. Even if we put the batteries back in a burned bulb will be lights out. With the middle wire in we now have a series-Parallel circuit and current can go an alternate route, Let us have the right bulb burn out. Current goes through the switch and light from terminal A and through the frame. Since the right bulb is out current goes DOWN the middle wire and through the battery to complete the circuit. Let us take the opposite case where the left bulb burns out. Current Now flows through the battery and UP the middle wire and through the right hand light and through the switch back to the other battery to complete the circuit Notice in the first case current flowed down the middle wire and up the middle wire in the second case. Both cases are 28 Volt circuits. There are no 12 positive and 12 negative circuits in spite of Bulletin 268! For there to be two different circuits of different polarity current would have to be flowing both UP and DOWN the middle wire at the same time and current would have to be backing up against the generator. This concept is both preposterous and impossible.

Conclusions: I have gone on far too long. Bulletin 268 is useful for a good diagram, voltage drop and field resistance data, and some good trouble shooting techniques but has over simplified the explanation of how it works. We have just scratched the surface of the 24Volt system here. We didn't talk about the fuel gauge, the generator light, the remote socket or unbalanced loads except for the burned bulb examples. If you want to learn more about 24 Volts and some great seminars ranging from painting to carburetor diagnosis and over haul come to Gathering of the Green at Davenport, Iowa March 21, 22, 23, an24, My presentation will be in color on power point with lots of diagrams and pictures. Thanks for reading this.

Deere was stuck with the oddball -12V, +12V , floating 24V system because Cat held proprietary rights with Delco for a simple 24V system.
The primary problem with the 12/12/24V system was farmer Bubba and he equally electrically challenged brother-in law/cousin Billy Bob. They would tinker some amid showers of sparks and clouds of smoke until the tractor had no working lights , burned off wires and pull starting was the only way to get her going. They would be left frustrated embarrassed and terrified with the impression that electricity is a mystical black art.
With some basic electrical knowledge , a wiring diagram and an electrical multimeter . There ain’t much to a 24V system.
I noticed that previous references to the Deere system as being 24V positive ground has been quietly removed .
 
Tx Jim

I overhauled this machine several years back to include a total replacement of the wiring harness. It included the circuit breakers. I even added, as a safety measure, the switch that won't let it crank if in a gear.
 
(quoted from post at 10:56:37 10/31/17)
(quoted from post at 20:39:44 10/30/17) I feel compelled to address the Deere-Delco 24 Volt System. I am usually nasty and sarcastic, but this time I mean no disrespect to anyone. However, I have taught 24 Volt seminars at Gathering of the Green for 12 years and have published several articles on the topic in "Green Magazine." I have been working on the system for 54 years(not the same tractor). I would be derelict in my responsibility to my hundreds of former students and readers if I didn't clarify some of the misconceptions about the subject. Before I published a word, I confirmed my conclusions with the head of the electrical engineering department at a major university.

Starting and charging are fairly straight forward. The chassis is nor used for starting or charging as the frame may as well been made out of wood or plastic. The starter, generator and regulator are isolated from the frame and each have a dedicated wire back to the positive terminal of one of the batteries. This concept is not unique as the fiberglass body Corvette has dedicated wires for body grounding. For starting, the middle wire connected from chassis to the midpoint of the batteries has absolutely no bearing whether it is hooked up or in the glove compartment of your pickup. Oops, there is that sarcasm creeping through. The generator charges the batteries in series with the regulator set at about 28 volts.

Complexity begins when we add lights, fuel gauge and outlet socket to the system. To save money Deere had Delco devise a way to use 12 volt bulbs, fuel gauge, and sending unit that were the same as used on the conventional gasoline tractors. Also a middle wire(as previously discussed) was added. The importance of the middle wire has been overstressed. The wire is there more as a default mode in case a bulb burns out or someone adds a spotlight or somehow unbalances the circuitry.

Here is how the lights work. For the sake of simplicity let us start with the 720 diesel with one set of headlights. We will be physicists instead of engineers for this exercise and have electricity flow from negative to positive. We will use two 12 volt batteries in series instead of 4. 1) We start at the negative terminal of one battery with a heavy cable to the top terminal of the solenoid. 2) Now we go from the top terminal of the solenoid with a smaller wire to the BAT terminal of the regulator. 3) From there we go to the A terminal of the switch which is a double pole single throw. This simply means two sets of contacts controlled by one lever. 4) We turn the switch and connect terminal A to the terminal that goes by wire to the left headlight. Current goes through the bulb and out the base which is connected to the frame of the tractor. Current now flows through the frame(think of it as a giant wire) and enters the right hand bulb THROUGH THE BASE which is bolted to the frame. 5)Current now flows through the right hand bulb the reverse way and goes down the wire to the switch terminal for the right hand headlight. 6) Remember this is a double contact switch. Since the contacts are closed, headlight 2 terminal is connected to terminal B of the switch. 7) Current now flows from terminal B to the case of the voltage regulator and from there to the isolated terminal on the side of the starter and then to the positive terminal of the other battery and the circuit is complete.

Notice that we don't need the middle wire for this. The bulbs are the same wattage and are 12 volt, but they are in series and the 24 volts split evenly giving each bulb 12 volts. If we hook the positive lead of a voltmeter to the positive terminal of the battery and put the negative lead of the voltmeter on terminal A of the switch it will read 24 Volts. If we put the negative lead of the meter on the frame it will read 12 volts, and if we put the negative lead on terminal B it will read 0.

Much has bee said about John Deere Bulletin 268 and a lot of talk about two 12 volt circuits with one negative and one positive. This was probably written to try and simplify a series parallel circuit and probable by technical writers rather than engineers, It just doesn't work that way. Deere is NOT infallible. The 730 was rated as a 5 plow tractor. It would only pull 5 if you didn't put it in the ground! For example, Let's take the batteries out of the tractor and put them on the floor. We can pull start the tractor and the lights will run totally off the generator. Obviously there are now NO positive and negative 12 volt circuits. 28 Volts are coming out the A1 terminal of the generator to terminal A of the switch. The Left light gets 14 volts, current travels through the frame and enters the right light the reverse way which gets the remaining 14 volts. Current travels through terminal B and then returns to the A2 terminal of the generator to complete the circuit The ONLY Negative is the A1 terminal of the generator and the ONLY positive is the A2 terminal of the generator. There is only one 28 Volt circuit.

As stated earlier the middle wire is mostly a default mode. In a healthy system there is very little current flowing through the middle wire. In fact a healthy system will work fine with the wire removed. However it is useful. In the generator scenario described above, if one of the lights burned out we have neither since it is a series circuit. Even if we put the batteries back in a burned bulb will be lights out. With the middle wire in we now have a series-Parallel circuit and current can go an alternate route, Let us have the right bulb burn out. Current goes through the switch and light from terminal A and through the frame. Since the right bulb is out current goes DOWN the middle wire and through the battery to complete the circuit. Let us take the opposite case where the left bulb burns out. Current Now flows through the battery and UP the middle wire and through the right hand light and through the switch back to the other battery to complete the circuit Notice in the first case current flowed down the middle wire and up the middle wire in the second case. Both cases are 28 Volt circuits. There are no 12 positive and 12 negative circuits in spite of Bulletin 268! For there to be two different circuits of different polarity current would have to be flowing both UP and DOWN the middle wire at the same time and current would have to be backing up against the generator. This concept is both preposterous and impossible.

Conclusions: I have gone on far too long. Bulletin 268 is useful for a good diagram, voltage drop and field resistance data, and some good trouble shooting techniques but has over simplified the explanation of how it works. We have just scratched the surface of the 24Volt system here. We didn't talk about the fuel gauge, the generator light, the remote socket or unbalanced loads except for the burned bulb examples. If you want to learn more about 24 Volts and some great seminars ranging from painting to carburetor diagnosis and over haul come to Gathering of the Green at Davenport, Iowa March 21, 22, 23, an24, My presentation will be in color on power point with lots of diagrams and pictures. Thanks for reading this.

Deere was stuck with the oddball -12V, +12V , floating 24V system because Cat held proprietary rights with Delco for a simple 24V system.
The primary problem with the 12/12/24V system was farmer Bubba and he equally electrically challenged brother-in law/cousin Billy Bob. They would tinker some amid showers of sparks and clouds of smoke until the tractor had no working lights , burned off wires and pull starting was the only way to get her going. They would be left frustrated embarrassed and terrified with the impression that electricity is a mystical black art.
With some basic electrical knowledge , a wiring diagram and an electrical multimeter . There ain’t much to a 24V system.
I noticed that previous references to the Deere system as being 24V positive ground has been quietly removed .


Glen, its time for you to give another 24 volt seminar at the New York State Expo, I sure enjoyed and learned from the one you gave before.

REGARDLESS of the design or quality of Deere's 24 volt system, I think EVERYONE HERE can agree to these points as were all gentlemen and professionals.


1) Deere designed and installed that frame jumper wire for a purpose.

2) At the mid point where the + of one battery and the - of the
other are tied to make the series connection IS WHERE THE
FRAME GROUND JUMPER IS ATTACHED

3) As a result of the above ground jumper attachment, one
battery has its POSITIVE bonded to frame ground while the
other battery has it NEGATIVE bonded to frame ground. (Kinda hard to not agree with that, look at the tractor and the diagrams, ITS A FACT) that one battery is Positive grounded and the other is Negative grounded....

4) Some 12 volt lights are fed from one battery (POS ground)
and others the other 12 volt battery (NEG ground) via the A
& B 12 volt feeds to the light switch. That's Deeres attempt
to better balance the loads.

4) If you have a problem where a 12 volt device or light or
relay etc etc etc isn't working I WOULD CHECK THAT
GROUND JUMPER WIRE to be sure its in place and good and
continuous

5) As an engineer and past dealer and farmer I would
recommend that THE GROUND JUMPER BE KEPT IN PLACE
AS IT SERVES A PURPOSE

NOWWWWWWWWWWWWWW if anyone disagrees and can show any of the above are wrong I'm all ears and willing to learn SO PLEASE ENLIGHTEN AND HELP US. As I posted below I have found what John Deere designed and published in wiring diagrams and built was as described in John Deere Service Bulletin 268 and I believe it versus any theories to the contrary

WITH ALL DUE RESPECT TO ALL HERE with no intention to hurt anyones feelings so please no one take offense as none is intended, I'm trying to HELP

John T
 
(quoted from post at 12:52:49 10/31/17)

John Deere and Tom are not contradicting each other. Or explain where. There is no mention whatsoever of a plus a minus 12v circuit. Plus the mention of 1/2 of the current not tension clearly means that we are talking system in series.

Excuse me but didn't Tom(erskine2017) state the ground wire wasn't really needed? If that's no contradicting then I don't know what is.
 
Proprietary rights held by CAT would mean one or more patents, right? Does anyone know the patent numbers if they exist? Would Deere have patents on their system?
 
(quoted from post at 13:49:50 10/31/17)
(quoted from post at 12:52:49 10/31/17)

John Deere and Tom are not contradicting each other. Or explain where. There is no mention whatsoever of a plus a minus 12v circuit. Plus the mention of 1/2 of the current not tension clearly means that we are talking system in series.

Excuse me but didn't Tom(erskine2017) state the ground wire wasn't really needed? If that's no contradicting then I don't know what is.

Tom said not really needed as long as the loads are balanced between both batteries which is true quite often.There is almost no current going trough that wire.

Simple tests with amp pliers would make diagnostic those easy. Amp pliers were probably not cheap back then and that did not help to understand the circuit.
 
After reading all the information on this subject and previous articles as well. I would say neither party is wrong. To sum it up, is well said in Toms last paragraph stating:
Bulletin 268 is useful for a good diagram, voltage drop and field resistance data, and some good trouble shooting techniques but has over simplified the explanation of how it works.
I agree with this statement and also would say it?s all that necessary for most people to have a good enough working understanding of system to diagnose and repair the 24 volt systems used on John Deere tractors. Does everybody working on these systems need to know all the fine details to work on them?? Not at all. Is it interesting to know more than the general explanation? To some of us yes. No need to get anybody?s nnalert in a wad over it. I never had any more education or training than the dealer service manual. Been working and repairing them for the 40 years. It always worked for me! I always kidded people that didn?t like the 24 volt systems that you had to be smarter than a dead battery to work on them! (Just Kidding) I haven?t seen one I could fix yet. If I owned an older 4010-20/3010/20 or two cylinder diesel it would stay 24 volt. I never knew about Bulletin 268 until I learned about it from this site it existed and now have found my own original copy of it in my own collection of old service bulletins. It?s OK and correct and in my opinion good enough for what it was intended. I used to post a lot on here also and even wrote my simple version of ?Understanding 24 Volt Systems? Now that I trouble shoot new John Deere tractor problems every day for a living I just don?t get the time to do much additional after hours trouble shooting as it cuts into my shop and tractor pulling time. I tell my fellow coworkers/counterpart the key to troubleshooting anything, is you have to have a good understanding of how it works. I wish that today?s tractors were as simple as these 24 volt systems. Believe me they are elementary compared to ?Today?s Tractor? systems. I trouble shoot mostly hydraulics and transmission problem but you have to be an electrical/electronic expert also to trouble shoot them . Technology is out of hand! This site is still one of my favorites and I will always enjoy reading the post like this one. Enjoy each other company and better yet learn from it! DW, AKA WTW
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:40 10/31/17)

Tom said not really needed as long as the loads are balanced between both batteries which is true quite often.There is almost no current going trough that wire.

Simple tests with amp pliers would make diagnostic those easy. Amp pliers were probably not cheap back then and that did not help to understand the circuit.

I think Tom stated more about the ground wire than "not really needed" !!!!!!!!! JD dealer I was employed at didn't have the "amp pliers" you referred to & I doubt if any or many JD dealers of that era did either!! If hardly any current ever traveled through that wire then what's your explanation of why it was installed in the 1st place??
 

What I was told by an old JD engineer at the 2004 GOG . Cat and Delco had a business contract , wasn’t a patent situation. Wish I had wrote down the fellow’s name .
 
I had a customer with a 3020 that liked to fry that wire for no reason. I wired in a circuit breaker & it was ok for years after.????
 
The fuse wire was the first safety update later came the circuit breaker kit. Remember the original 10 series and early 20 series used 2 ground cables to the chassis instead of the isolated connector cable with the fuse wire to connect the batteries. The early tractors could get a short that would make the generator motor and 24v had power enough to start the tractor and or burn up the wiring harness. Depending on where the short was the fuse wire might save the harness.
 

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