6600 combine keeps over heating

Trei1013

New User
I bought a 6600 combine. Has over heated from the day I got it. Ive changed air filter, thermostat, rebuilt water pump, changed water pump and fan belts along with tensioners, and had the radiator cleaned. The man who cleaned it said the inside was pretty clean but outside was dirty. We through it back on today and still same issue. We drove it 7 miles to the field and it ran at 170 degrees, then after one pass around a 20 acre field it was up to 185 degrees, and then after the second pass it went up to 195 anf then after the third 210 at which point we shut it down. It does not seem to smoke bad or act under powered and I do not see bubbles or hissing in regards to being a bad head. Hoping somebody has an idea cause I'm running short and its getting really frustrating at this point
 

Also the radiator hoses are not collapsing either. And does anyone know,for sure which way air flow should be from the fan. It has a rotary screen so I have set to pull air through the screen and into engine cavity but just wondering if that could be an issue
 
If the 6600 is like the 6620 there is a spring loaded tensioner for the radiator fan drive. On my 6620 my torsion spring was fatigued therefore not applying full tension plus the pivot was rusty. Cleaned the pivot shaft and replaced the spring and it has been holding good temp barring cleaning for chaff and dust. Is the rotary screen square and flush to the radiator? The rotary screen drive turning as it should?
 
I believe the tensioner is tight but I will double check. And yes the rotary screen apears to be in place and turning properly
 
The fan is to pull air thru the rotary screen.

Check the sheaves for the fan, water pump and most importantly the drive sheave on the crankshaft. If enough hours on those
they may be worn to where they do not correctly engage the belts. The sheaves get worn so there is no grip on the belts.
The wear will look like there should be a round rope being driven instead of a belt with vee sides. the components will be
driven but not at the speed to adequately cool the engine!
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:27 10/24/17) Did you check the temperature sender and temperature gauge? How good is the radiator cap?

Yes I did run a second temp gauge off of a port right next to the original and they ran the samr temp. And yes radiator cap appears to function although I did not,put it on a prrssure tester
 
I would bet the tubes inside the radiator are plugged. Had the same trouble with a 7700, remover radiator and had it cleaned and everything was fine!
 
Do you have new 180*-200* thermostats ? sounds like its running cool to me . IS it boiling water out of the radiator ? You don't say what engine you have , another could be a blown head gasket but you should have other problems . The old gauge was calibrated at 180* for normal .
 
It is the 404 engine and no it does not boil over but I have not run very hot for very long. Also I ran a new temp gauge right next to the old one with the thermostats out and both gauges read at the same temp. I filled the radiator up to the neck and never saw any air bubbles and it does not smoke or lack power. I'm,leaning towards needing a,new radiator as the guys in our area tell me they don't rod the radiators anymore and want you to buy a new one vs recoring it
 
(quoted from post at 19:18:45 10/25/17) It is the 404 engine and no it does not boil over but I have not run very hot for very long. Also I ran a new temp gauge right next to the old one with the thermostats out and both gauges read at the same temp. I filled the radiator up to the neck and never saw any air bubbles and it does not smoke or lack power. I'm,leaning towards needing a,new radiator as the guys in our area tell me they don't rod the radiators anymore and want you to buy a new one vs recoring it
Some auto parts stores sell an additive thats supposed to make an engine run cooler. Wallymart and Summit racing sell some, up to 40%cooler, i havent tried it yet. Does it have a regular fan or viscous drive fan?
 
If rad is not cooling well, the lower hose should be very hot.
If it is a thermostat issue or water pump issue lower rad would be very cold.
I wander if you could have gelly/huge restriction of water flow in the oil cooler? That might be something to check if the lower hose is cold and engine boiling.

Like other said at 180 to 200 you should be fine. 225 is the beginning of a problem but if you donT stall it and let it cool it should be fine.
Check your lower and upper hose temperature by feel so you can easily figure when the thermostat open.
 

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