Glen D Anderson Gnd

2510Paul

Well-known Member
Glen, one thing I want to add on your journey to improve your 4020 lighting.

I suggest you add ground wires to the lights in your fenders and on your cab. If you put on additional lights, again run a ground wire. On the 10 and 20 series I will add a 1/2" (as I recall) ring terminal with star washers to the back of the light where it mounts to the fender. I then wire that to a bolt on the transmission case somewhere near or at the battery ground. Same for the cab lights.

I find an ohm meter does not always tell the whole story. A frame based ground may test good with an ohm meter but when you try and put some current through that frame based ground you cannot get much current through it. Run a dedicated ground wire and all is good. I found this on the rear lights of my factory cab 4320.

I ran separate ground wires on my neighbors 4020, you sure can pick that tractor (incandescent) out at night.

So, have fun with the LED lights but for best results pay attention to the grounds. The good news the LED's you are buying already have dedicated ground terminals.

As a side note, this whole area of LED lighting seems to be evolving at a very high rate. I know I have been recommending the Tigerlights, I hope that does not come back to byte me but their designs look appealing to me and as I recall they work to control the processes at their manufacturing sites.

Paul
 
Good day!

That is a very good suggestion & funny that you should mention it.

I have been wiring truck / trailer lights & work lights with both frame & dedicated ground circuits for quite some time. The combination provides a redundancy that pays off over the years as corrosion builds between light bracket mounting connections or in the event of a broken / compromised dedicated ground wire. There's no such thing as too many grounds..... LOL

And the nice thing is that with the lower current draw of LEDs they are far less susceptible to poor performance from sub-par wiring!


(quoted from post at 06:59:58 10/25/17) Glen, one thing I want to add on your journey to improve your 4020 lighting.

I suggest you add ground wires to the lights in your fenders and on your cab. If you put on additional lights, again run a ground wire. On the 10 and 20 series I will add a 1/2" (as I recall) ring terminal with star washers to the back of the light where it mounts to the fender. I then wire that to a bolt on the transmission case somewhere near or at the battery ground. Same for the cab lights.

I find an ohm meter does not always tell the whole story. A frame based ground may test good with an ohm meter but when you try and put some current through that frame based ground you cannot get much current through it. Run a dedicated ground wire and all is good. I found this on the rear lights of my factory cab 4320.

I ran separate ground wires on my neighbors 4020, you sure can pick that tractor (incandescent) out at night.

So, have fun with the LED lights but for best results pay attention to the grounds. The good news the LED's you are buying already have dedicated ground terminals.

As a side note, this whole area of LED lighting seems to be evolving at a very high rate. I know I have been recommending the Tigerlights, I hope that does not come back to byte me but their designs look appealing to me and as I recall they work to control the processes at their manufacturing sites.

Paul
 

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