4055 I have been working on

2510Paul

Well-known Member
Here's the 4055 I have been working on:

New cab liner from Fehr.
Replaced ALL fluids and filters.
Flushed coolant system.
New roof.
New LED Warning lights.
New LED front lights.
New LED inner fender lights for high beam.
Resealed and bushed front axle. (Had experienced help.)
Pressure washed radiator.
New main pump coupler.
Repaired almost wore through fuel line.
Replaced blinker indicator bulb.
Polished all sheet metal. It was really yellow-gray.
Cleaned cab roof top.
Cleaned Evaporator and Condenser.
New JD left step kit.
Custom made right step kit, not on yet.
Relocated tool box.
New door latch.
All new door weather stripping.
Replaced rear flood light.
Repainted nose and a few other spots.
Replaced blinker switch.
New antenna.
Cleaned floor matt.
Re-upholstered seat (by others) and installed new are rests.
All new foam around radiator side grills.

I learned a lot.

Well, I delivered it to my friend. He cut hay at night only to find out the back lights on the dash don't work. Oh well. :)

Paul
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That is one nice tractor. I would like to have a 55 series but do not cover enough acres anymore to spend what they bring. I would like to detail my 4230 this winter. Any tips on redoing a cab interior? It is always nice to see good well taken care of tractors no matter what color. Tom
 
The back lights are a cheap fix. Remove the Inverstigator II modules and open up by removing the four small screws. Each has two small light bulbs.
 
Hi Tom.
The folks at Fehr cab interiors were good to work with.

I suggest the plastic backed interior parts. The fit was really good. They are much easier to glue in. In general you need to get all the glue off. I used a gasket scraper and Glue Gone or some such named product my wife had. See my comments on the corner posts.

Regarding the corner posts, make sure you get the snap on post covers. Then you won't have to get all the glue off except on the forward side of the right post and the inward side of the left post. Remove all the glue there so the Velcro sticks well. I commented earlier, I had a little trouble with the right hand post cover when I fastened the mirror over the top of the cover. It made the cover wavy along the front side by the window. I made a cut-out for the mirror and then glued the cover next to the window. That worked well.

As an aside, I did not know I did not need to remove all the glue from the posts. To get the glue off the posts I had to heat it with a propane torch to soften it up.

I did not replace the windows weatherstriping so I cannot comment on the window weatherstrips Fehr sent me.

Regarding the Phillips head screws that hold the window latches/hold-opens, I had a heck of job getting those screws out. I used penetrating oil and tapped on them a lot with a small hammer. Fehr suggested I use a DeWalt impact driver with a #3 bit to remove them. Turned out I just got the DeWalt for Christmas. It worked. I like to think all the other things I did helped also.

On the door I had mixed results with the Fehr parts. The weatherstrip the door slams against by the latch side was very nice from Fehr, better than the JD version. The weather strip on the front left hand post that is supposed to seal at the door did not seal. I called Fehr, they were aware of the issue and said they were working with their supplier. Also on that piece the metal clips in the rubber molding were weak. I got the JD version of that part, it was better.

The best advice I can give you is patience, give yourself plenty of time, and watch the videos on the Fehr site and YouTube. The Videos make it look easy but they don't do a good job of describing all the prep you need to do.

It helps to have a helper. I am a big guy so someone smaller for some of the tasks is good.

Paul
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Hi Paul, 2 questions -

For the flashing warning lights, what is the part number of the LED replacement?

Did this tractor have the door not staying open? Ours slams shut all the time. The track for the door arm is worn. Deere wants over $50 bucks for a new track which is a simple piece of metal. Trying to see if there are any alternatives to being robbed.

Thanks,
John
 
Paul,

One more question - where did you move the toolbox? Mine was on the right side in front of the battery box but I had to remove it to install the 260 loader. Looking for a new location.

John
 
The door being on the left, it is better to put your toolbox on the left. So you do not have to run around the tractor which is even worse with a loader.
I.e. on the loader support frame.
 
Hogleg, on the 4055 I moved the tool box just in front of the right battery box. I will post pictures when I am done. I am building in a step to the top of the battery box.

By the way, the 4055 picture is without front fenders but once the wet, mud, snow of winter starts the owner expects to put the fenders back on.

I agree, I would rather have the tool box on the left side. However, I installed the JD step kit on the left side and with fenders on the front wheels, mfwd, there is not enough clearance to install the tool box along the frame rail.

If you have a two wheel drive tractor there would be plenty of room to install the tool box on the left frame rail. As a matter a fact, I installed a K&M tool box, two piece one I can stand on, on the frame rail in front of the JD step kit on my 4250. That way I use the JD step kit to step to the tool box to the fuel tank cap. That K&M two piece tool box is really really nice but also expensive. See the 4250 picture with this message. Sorry about the rotation.

Back to the 4055, I did consider mounting the JD (black) tool box to the left JD step kit between the step kit and the tire. The JD step kit is in the most forward position to make door swing and human body access best. This could have worked but I was concerned about dirt from the tire. Another idea I had was to elevate the mounting of the tool box on lengthened posts from the frame rail to about half way up the engine block or about half way between the frame rail and engine hood. The owner opted for the right hand side mounting rather than either of these two ideas.
Paul
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The Tigerlights P/N is AR60250. The Shoup Item Number is 42542 at $49 each.

Hogleg, what series tractor is yours? If it is a 55 series these lights will work great both as warning lights (all four flashing) and as turn signals. If your tractor is other than a 55 series I would offer other comments.

Also, the lights in the front hoods of these tractors are a joke. The LED versions really light things up. For a 55 series the LED version is Shoup Item Number 42550 at $49 each, I needed three on the 4055. The Tigerlights P/N is RE306510. If your tractor is not a 55 series, you likely would have to go to their LED Conversion Kit at $380 or $430 (Tigerlight prices) depending on your tractor series.

Sorry, I cannot comment on the door thing. You could check the cost at A&I or other parts vendors. Or, you could weld it in if it as simple as you describe. BUT, remember to disconnect the battery grounds anytime you weld on these tractors. I can't imagine what those electronic control modules cost.

Paul
 
Hi Mr. fdt860. I see I got your question and Mr. Hogleg's questions kinda mixed up. Well, my answers are below. I agree with your toolbox on the left comment. Thanks for your response.

Paul
 
Your welcome! You are doing a great job on that 55!
I asked once a question about how many 2520 you had sitting in that shop? Seems like many to me!
 
Sorry, you pretty much nailed it so I did not respond. :) You have a good eye. I like to put a ROPS and Step Kit on any tractor I get.

Here is the list:

1966 2510 Narrow Front Gas. Did some rebuild on main pump and all new brakes. I need to go through the wiring and then it is done. Real peppy tractor for a 2510.
1967 2510 Wide Front Gas, Son restored for his High School Senior Exit Project.
1967 2510 Power Shift Diesel, my son and I rebuilt the engine. Other leaks need attention.
1968 2510 New Block and rebuilt engine, has 145 loader with my additional supports to the axles.
1969 2510 New Reman Engine, rear end rebuilt by my son while working at JD dealer.
1970 2520 Gas, needs brakes which I have. Otherwise the best shape tractor I bought.
1971 2520 my son and I rebuilt the engine, needs wiring gone over yet. Super straight sheet metal.
1972 2520 started life as a gas but was changed to diesel at some point, needs rear end gone through. Noisy. Tranny oil test said STOP. But I use it anyway.
1971 4020 Power Shift. Needs Brakes. Does not run well, may be injectors or pump. Rebuilt seat. Going through throttle linkage. This tractor although looks nice and was painted must of sat outside at one time as all the bolts are rusted tight as is the throttle linkage.
1983 4250 2WD for my 4200 Rollover Plow.
1971 4320, Needs clutch. Has factory cab that has gotten way to noisy for me.
The 4055 I worked on is a friends. It came from a local auction and just needed some TLC.

Good eye. Thanks for your comments.

Paul
 
Thanks Travis. They are all out so I don't know if it is the bulbs or something deeper like the Connector, or the wire, or the switch. I will look when I get the tractor back to put the right step kit on I am fabricating.

Again, Thanks.

Paul
 
Hey Paul,

Have either you or the owner used the tractor at night to see how the round LED lights perform?

I'm interested in getting a set for our '72 4020 so I would need high/low beam combos for the 2 front facing lights & a basic flood pattern for the 2 rear facing lights.

I'm also thinking of mounting a curved light bar(maybe 40" or so) on the top of the cab for field use.

Any input is appreciated.

TIA,

Glen


(quoted from post at 13:30:58 10/21/17) Here's the 4055 I have been working on:

New LED Warning lights.
New LED front lights.
New LED inner fender lights for high beam.
Paul
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Hi Glen. I believe you were the gentleman wondering about steps for a 4320 with Hinson factory cab. I put a K&M step kit on my 4320 with the Hinson factory cab. It worked great. Without it you were always "hanging" from the cab because you could not center your weight on the factory steps. The K&M steps help you do that so getting in and out of the cab is not so hard on your arms. I did not have a picture handy and the 4320 is at a neighbor. I still intend to get you a picture.

Regarding your 72 4020 and LED lights I suggest you call Tigerlights at 844-456-4600. The last guy I talked to was very helpful.

I think he will suggest the TL3025 High/Low beam with 3 screws on the back, Ground, Low, and High. The light pattern is described as "Flood-Spot". "What does that mean?" you ask. In addition to the 4.5" dia. lens, each LED has it's own lens ground into the 4.5" dia. lens. Some of those smaller lens are ground as a flood and some are ground as a spot. Pretty cool and only possible with the multiple LED light.

Now, I also see a TL3020 in the catalog with same description but it does not appear to have the three screws. It appears to have three wires. So again, a call might be helpful.

I did not take the tractor out at night but the owner did after I delivered it. He was very happy. Remember, on his tractor I also replaced the three lights at the front of the hood with LEDs, 1440 Lumens each. I am told the incandescent light that come standard with the tractor are 5-600 Lumens. The lights I suggested are 2200 Lumens.

You could replace your fender lights and then decide if you still want a light bar.

On our 4320 my son mounted two lights at the front of the 4320 where the cultivator brace supports are. He also mounted lights down by the battery boxes, all incandescent at the time. These are just ideas as to where to mount additional lights.

I want to add, on the 4055 I used the TL3025 with high and low beam. I only needed the high beam on the inner fender light so I just did not use the low beam terminal.

The TL2080 or TL2060 might be what you want for the rear, but again call Tigerlights.

I hope this helps Glen.

Paul

P.S. I would think guys combining at night would like LEDs.
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Thanks for your comments, Paul. My tractor is a 4430.

I can't install the toolbox on the frame rails due to the loader brackets being bolted there, unless I weld some supports on to the brackets. I may go that way...

Thanks,
John
 
Good morning Paul,

I was indeed curious about the steps for a Hinson cabbed tractor(4020 in our case). That said, I broke down & ordered a set from Deere last week. They're certainly not cheap but I like the open tread / rounded face design & need something sturdy as I'm packing a few more extra pounds than I used to plus they should make it infinitely easier for my Dad to climb in/out. LOL

Regarding the LEDs, I had already been on Tigerlights website & concluded that the TL3025s might work for the front & the TL2080s on the back. I could phone & talk to a rep. I suppose but I was hoping for some real world feedback on functionality as salesmen have a tendency to not be that objective. LOL

The additional mounting locations for lights on your 4320 look good to me. Probably made a huge improvement over the OEM configuration.

I'm leaning towards the use of a light bar as we installed a no-name cheapie double row 48"(or 50" I cant remember now?) with combo pattern on a forklift at the place I used to work at. We had a blade attachment for that machine used it for plowing snow in the various yards & parking lots at night /dark. All I can say about that light is WOW. It was like having your own personal switch for the sun. LOL I think it had close to a 20 AMP draw but it would've probably taken 100 AMPs worth of incandescent lighting to achieve the same results.


Thanks again for the info. & good job on the 4055! The finished product looks great!


Glen



(quoted from post at 17:28:33 10/23/17) Hi Glen. I believe you were the gentleman wondering about steps for a 4320 with Hinson factory cab. I put a K&M step kit on my 4320 with the Hinson factory cab. It worked great. Without it you were always "hanging" from the cab because you could not center your weight on the factory steps. The K&M steps help you do that so getting in and out of the cab is not so hard on your arms. I did not have a picture handy and the 4320 is at a neighbor. I still intend to get you a picture.

Regarding your 72 4020 and LED lights I suggest you call Tigerlights at 844-456-4600. The last guy I talked to was very helpful.

I think he will suggest the TL3025 High/Low beam with 3 screws on the back, Ground, Low, and High. The light pattern is described as "Flood-Spot". "What does that mean?" you ask. In addition to the 4.5" dia. lens, each LED has it's own lens ground into the 4.5" dia. lens. Some of those smaller lens are ground as a flood and some are ground as a spot. Pretty cool and only possible with the multiple LED light.

Now, I also see a TL3020 in the catalog with same description but it does not appear to have the three screws. It appears to have three wires. So again, a call might be helpful.

I did not take the tractor out at night but the owner did after I delivered it. He was very happy. Remember, on his tractor I also replaced the three lights at the front of the hood with LEDs, 1440 Lumens each. I am told the incandescent light that come standard with the tractor are 5-600 Lumens. The lights I suggested are 2200 Lumens.

You could replace your fender lights and then decide if you still want a light bar.

On our 4320 my son mounted two lights at the front of the 4320 where the cultivator brace supports are. He also mounted lights down by the battery boxes, all incandescent at the time. These are just ideas as to where to mount additional lights.

I want to add, on the 4055 I used the TL3025 with high and low beam. I only needed the high beam on the inner fender light so I just did not use the low beam terminal.

The TL2080 or TL2060 might be what you want for the rear, but again call Tigerlights.

I hope this helps Glen.

Paul

P.S. I would think guys combining at night would like LEDs.
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Agreed, I like the Deere steps better also. They are stronger and just seem to have a better looking design. Best regards. Maybe you could post a pic when you get them on. Paul
 

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