Ring and Pinion gear wont move?

larryanderson

Well-known Member
Not sure of term but on a 4020/4320 the ring and pinion gear is stuck.We took casting off after loosening wedges and the gear is stuck and wondering best method to get it loose.We took cork off other end and it looked new and put penetrating oil and tried to break it loose with large pipe and gave up.Thanks
 
Take the other wedge out of the wheel. Roll the wheel half a turn so the pinion is disengaged and slide the wheel to where you want it, roll the wheel back to the correct position on the axle and clamp it. You can spend a lot of time on that pinion that you don't need to.
 
Use a good punch and drive the pin out,,be sure the punch you use is near the size of the hole and squared off flat ,,a pointed or rounded end will "mushroom" the pin and make it harder to drive out,,after you get it out sand the rust off of it,, I normally do this first thing when working tight wheels.
 
I have had decent luck freeing those up on the 2 cyl. models once I have the center casting off the axle. I roll them so the pinion is down and soak them up in penetrant oil. I would borrow an old CP 3/4" impact with a large hose on it from my uncle. This seemed to make real good power. I'd put that on the pinion and hammer away at it one way and then the other and many seemed to give up and spin.
I used to dive the pinion shaft out with a long home made punch but this was slow hard work and once apart and cleaned up you then had trouble keeping it from falling out.
 
Over years I have had a couple that I could not move, not penetrating oil soaking for weeks, not impact wrench (although I think mine is wimpy), not big punches, and not wrenches with pipes. I realize everyone below is trying to not use heat. If all that fails I would suggest you torch the gear out and heat the crap out of the bolt/axle from both ends and the center. Then let it cool a day or two and then punch it out.

I have had a similar issue with wedge bolts between the rim and cast center. Believe me, I did it all. The only way I could get them out was to grind the bolt flush with the casting on both sides, heat the bolt cherry red from both sides, let cool for a couple days, then punch out. I did not have to do this on all but if you have a couple that don't respond this works. I was told at the time I was experiencing "Rust Welding".

Oh, if you do have to torch the gear and bolt, the new gear and bolt are an interference fit. Heat the gear and be prepared to quickly thread the bolt through the casting and the heated gear in its position in the casting. It works good.

Good Luck.

Paul
 
Tim does the shaft have a keyway and gear must be separate? I assume that's the only way to get in in there in first place.I have wheel off just can turn shaft.
 
Are you sure that the bolt didn't come out of the pin that holds the cluster?

I bought a 4020 that happened to with a PS. It would not turn the wheels then locked up when the pin came down and hit the pto shaft. Bought it from Tate and Lyle elevator for $2500 with a 148 loader. Local JD shop had toren it down. The front axle and motor were the biggest pieces. Three pallets were the tranny, rear end, and other pieces. The loader, rear axle housings, wheels, hood, and etc filled up a 53' trailer. I sold the tractor to a buddy for $1000 and the loader for $2500 and I kept the roll bar. The dealer wanted $3850 plus parts to fix it.
 

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