JD Model A clutch questions

Brooks E.

Member
I have the clutch apart on this '51 Model A. The roller bearing was shot, allowing the whole pulley to move when the lever was pushed or pulled. I have two questions; the bent washer (for lack of the correct term) that's under the 1209 roller bearing was situated such that the outer edge of it was in contact with the outer bearing race. I think that allowed the inner bearing sleeve to move out of the bearing. Shouldn't it be the other way around, with the inner part of that washer to make contact with the inner bearing sleeve?

Question 2; The dogs are stuck to the pins that hold them in. The toggles and dogs move like they're supposed to, but the pins rotate. I think they should also float on the pins. I'd like to get them apart and clean and grease them before re-assembling everything, but I don't want to hammer on any of that for fear of cracking cast iron.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 
That convex washer / dust shield / slinger was installed correctly. The INSIDE Race of your bear
should be TIGHT on the crankshaft & SHOULD NOT MOVE, it's a Separate part from the roller brg. It
is replaceable, warmed up & slide on the crank & when it's Cool it's TIGHT. If a new bearing race
isn't TIGHT, you are going to need some more work. Also Pack the new bear with grease when installing.
 
The pins in the dogs should be cleaned and never-seized. The pockets in the dogs and center
hub should be packed with high temperature grease as well as the new bearing you are
putting in. Use never-seize on the T bolts also when you put them back in. For the initial
adjustment on the clutch I lock it in then tighten the adjusting nut in 5 lb increments to
15 lbs. If the clutch is to tight to work, back the nuts off equally one notch at a time
till it has a nice snap in and out.
 

So the inner sleeve should have stayed on the crankshaft when I pulled the clutch driver and pulley off? I miked the old sleeve and it's a good .004-.005" larger than specs show for the new one (which I haven't received yet). I'll mike the crank when I get home and keep fingers crossed that it didn't spin and do damage there.

Thanks
 

ET, thanks for the tips, but the big question was how to get the rusted pins out of the dogs without breaking something expensive.
 
I should add use the never-seize on the T bolts in the area where they slide through the pulley not on the threads. If you put it on the threads it can collect clutch dust and jam up the threads.
 
(quoted from post at 04:55:20 08/02/17) I should add use the never-seize on the T bolts in the area where they slide through the pulley not on the threads. If you put it on the threads it can collect clutch dust and jam up the threads.

I was able to get the dogs and pins out without breaking anything. It's all back together now with new clutch discs and a new roller bearing. I had to find a better clutch fork and bearing, so now the top of the clutch lever only moves about a foot front to back. A huge improvement over what it used to do.

But, when the clutch is adjusted to get a good engage and release, the castle nuts on the three clutch bolts go so far down the bolts that the top of the nuts are almost past the second hole in the bolts. There are no washers under the nuts, but I had to bend the head of the cotter pin down into a slot on each of the nuts.

Is the end of the crank worn too much or is the inside of the clutch drive disc worn out? I didn't replace it. The driver did not go all the way to flush on the end of the crank, but was close, less than 1/8".

Should I leave well enough alone?

Also, when engaging the clutch in a higher gear (4,5,6) if the tractor doesn't move at all, is the clutch still too loose? It works great in lower gears.
 
There's supposed to be a flat washer under those castle nuts.

That 1/8" gap between the ends of the driver and crank IS GOOD. If it was flush then it would be considered worn.

Not moving in 4 5 and 6 gears sounds like worn shifter/rails in the transmission. Someone with more experience can help you with that.
 
(quoted from post at 10:54:08 09/09/17) There's supposed to be a flat washer under those castle nuts.

That 1/8" gap between the ends of the driver and crank IS GOOD. If it was flush then it would be considered worn.

Not moving in 4 5 and 6 gears sounds like worn shifter/rails in the transmission. Someone with more experience can help you with that.

I should clarify that. On level ground, it'll will pull the tractor in the high gears. Any sort of incline, it won't. I think I'll tighten up the nuts one notch and try again. This adjustment is a lot more touchy than I imagined it would be.
 

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