Found this today on '43 D

golfcartman · Aug 30, 2017

Was doing some cleaning today on my D and found a nice crack along the top of cylinder # 2. The shinny spot is where I ground on it. Radiator is full of water and no leaking at the crack. Have not cranked the tractor yet, waiting on carb and mag rebuild. Engine turns over good and smooth and has good compression. No oil in water and no water in oil. Should I repair this or try to locate another cylinder block. I plan to keep tractor for shows and drive around. Not to work or not to sell to anyone else.

pbb · Aug 30, 2017

If it was mine I would fix it and not worry about finding another block and going through all the trouble of tearing it down.

Loren in Iowa · Aug 30, 2017

If it's not leaking, you could try some JB Weld. If that fails, down the road, you could always fix it right, later on.

Courtland508 · Aug 31, 2017

Have it stitched by someone who knows what they are doing. It is called block stitching. There is a guy in Mass that can do it.

Richard G. · Aug 31, 2017

Reminds me of an old 50 Chevy 3/4 ton PU I had that had a crack the length of the block. I bought it for $40 and was going to take the 4 speed out of it for another truck I had. Put JB weld on it and it fell out in a short time. Cleaned and dried the crack very well and pushed high temp red silicone in the crack. Drove that old truck for years on the farm like that and it was still holding when I got rid of it.
Richard in NW SC

toot · Aug 31, 2017

I have had cracks like this in a couple of tractors over the years. You can use jb weld and smooth over the imperfections then paint. Do not grind on it anymore, just clean it up and apply the jb. If it ever starts leaking then you can proceed to fixing it a more permanent way

Russ from MN · Aug 31, 2017

Probably has some Barr's stop leak in it!

FBH44 · Sep 1, 2017

I had a similar leak on a red tractor, sprayed some red paint on it several times, and the leaks have not come back.... I'm agree that's not a perfect fix, but it don't leak anymore.....

Mike M · Sep 1, 2017

I'll put in my 2 cents worth. Hard be believe it is not leaking ? that looks like a pretty serious crack from freezing with water in it. I had a model 40 with a crack on the side of the block and did not have any luck sealing it up. Tried JB weld and thought I had it. Bladed the drive and got it warmed up and it started leaking again. I concluded that the cast iron expands and contracts at a lot different rate than JB weld does. I often thought if I get another one I'd try the urethane they install windshields with. It seems to stick to everything and is very flexible.

ArnieinChesterfieldVa · Sep 3, 2017

If this happened on my 60 here is what I would attempt. Go to a good welding supply store & get some good nickel tig rod...you'd probably want 3/32" diameter. This rod you apply obviously with a tig welder but you will have to bevel it out a little (maybe 1/8" - 3/16" deep. When applying the rod, weld a small section at a time. Once the area 2" away from your weld gets too hot for you to rest your finger on without getting burnt, let that area cool down on it's own before applying more weld. I usually apply about a 1" length of weld, then move to another area while that one cools. Eventually you will have all of the bevel filled.

Found this today on '43 D

golfcartman

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pbb

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Loren in Iowa

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Courtland508

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Richard G.

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toot

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Russ from MN

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FBH44

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Mike M

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ArnieinChesterfieldVa

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