Unstyled A rod bearing

TCR

New User
I have an unstyled A. 38 model with babbitt bearings. One has no babbitt left but crank is in pretty good shape. I am looking at options to "bandaid" it for a while. I have heard of leather bearings on cars. Tried it. Lasted about 5 minutes. Do I try a harder piece of leather?

More leaning towards a used rod with good babbitt. Main question is the wrist pin pressed in or floating? Can I pull the piston back far enough to leave piston in cylinder and remove wrist pin to R/R rod? Will pistonand rod come clear out crank case so I can change rod or pour new babbitt with out complete engine disassembly?
 
Chances are if the Babbitt is bad (gone) the crank is bad too. Have you miked it? It may look good and be way out of round.
 
If you need one or two good Babbit rods for your A, i have some nice used ones i would sell reasonably. Email is open, and leave a return
contact number if interested.
 
I am not 100% sure, but it seems like there is not enough clearance in the case to pull the rod and piston out the access cover. You may have just enough room to pull the wrist pin out of the rod and pull just the rod out. If you pull the piston back far enough to expose the wrist pin, the oil control rings will come out of the cylinder but not the compression rings. Yes, the wrist pin is a floating pin held in with a snap ring. Hope this helps.
 
(quoted from post at 07:30:04 08/13/17) I am not 100% sure, but it seems like there is not enough clearance in the case to pull the rod and piston out the access cover. You may have just enough room to pull the wrist pin out of the rod and pull just the rod out. If you pull the piston back far enough to expose the wrist pin, the oil control rings will come out of the cylinder but not the compression rings. Yes, the wrist pin is a floating pin held in with a snap ring. Hope this helps.

Very much so. Thank you.
 
Just to update, you can get the rod off the piston and out the crankcase. Somewhat of a puzzle and a pain but can be done. Now to replace said rod.
 

I am new to this forum and cannot figure out how to send an email to you. I would be interested in more info on a rod. Crank journal appears to be 3". Do I need to measure wrist pin as well? Or length? To make sure rod is the same as mine?
 
Found a rod with good babbitt. Installed. Adjusted shims for nice smooth fit. Tractor sounds better than ever. Now to address oil leak behind flywheel. Anybody got any knowledge on what sort of seal is in there? Also, what should I run for fuel? Gasoline with lead additive? I heard someone mention kerosene.
 
There is a cork seal behind the flywheel. Needs to be soaked in oil before installing. Also note that the flywheel has ome deeper slot in it. This aligns with a crank spline that has a set screw in it to insure correct placement of the fltwheel. Flywheel also has a square stud that engages a slot in the slinger that the seal goes into.
 

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