craigco

Member
Baling hay the PTO quit turning. I can still feel the PTO clutch engage with the lever. Is this the $1 pin that let go? What's the best way to fix it, and do you have the part numbers for the repair. Read some where about drilling the case instead if the splits to get to it. Any info on that would be helpful as well. Thanks
 

If it was my tractor I'd split tractor between clutch & trans housing and change pto to 540 only by removing 1000 rpm drive gear along with tiny pins then adding shim bush to take up space. back in the 70's I changed several 10 series to 540 only pto.
 

In reply to your statement about drilling hole in trans case to replace the tiny pin & even smaller cotter key. I would like to witness that little maneuver as the cotter key would be tedious to install & spread looking through a hole in trans case. Not to forget that the rod inside the pto shaft is "spring loaded" so compressing spring to install "tiny pin" would require just short of a miracle.
 
If I split at transmission is it all pretty accessible from there, or more gears and such to get to it.? Do I need to remove the housing where the PTO shaft is? Right now I'm guessing it's the pin because it just made a little tink noise and lost PTO. I have a service manual as well but first hand experience and tips help.
 

Yes R26687 is the tiny pin that can bend or break. You could remove stub shaft on the rear & install a penny in the center in an attempt to push shift rod a little further if pin is only bent not broken.
 
Don't be afraid to split that tractor. They are pretty simple and easy to split.

- Disconnect barreries, remove them
- Remove platform
- Place dash control plate away
- Remove hydraulic lines from under dash to SCV and rockshaft pressure line
- Remove brake lines
- Disconnect wires for rear lights
- Disconnect shifter rods on RH side of tranny
- Disconnect LH hydraulic pipe to front pump
- Remove tranmission top cover and remove the top bolts installed from the trans.
- Loosen all trans bolts 1 turn, you can remove 1/2 of them at that point.
- Block front of tractor solidely at steps supports or under the rear of the engine rails. You can stack up cut up railroad ties and screw some wooden 6x6 cutup to right length or weld up something to support it.
I would not do it with tractor blocked up with 25 2x4. It is safer to use big ties that don't move. You can build up a square of ties and have a very strong support for as cheap as can be.

- You need to have access to front PTO bearing quill during the process
- Remove front bearing quill for PTO
- Support trans with very wide rolling jack.
If you don't have one, you can use a pallet trolley, and strap the tractor to it with couple railroad ties between tractor and pallet forks. That way it cannot slide on you.
- Push tractor apart. 3010 are lights and should be done easily on flat concrete

- To help reinstall, you can use 1 or 2 3/4 all threads as a guide. I prefer to use only one, but you can use 2... Do not make them too long and make sure you can get them out after assembly trough the rear of the trans hole. On 3010, you can almost only put a 6" all thread in the hole above trans filter.

- You have to put the bolts on top of the transmission under the cover before you pull tractor together, or before to put shifter in, I don't remember...

Do not use the all threads to pull the tractor halves together

If tractor is too hard to roll by hand, you can use a come along between rear hitch and the front portion, assuming you blocked it well.
 

I'll add to what fdt860 stated to wedge wooden blocks between frt axle & frame to keep engine from tilting over when clutch housing is separated from trans.
 

craigco
Remove inspection cover under clutch housing to be sure pto clutch center hasn't stripped out & shaft is turning when pto clutch is engaged. It's been a long time since I looked inside a 10 series trans but I'm thinking with stub shaft removed pto drive shaft should spin @ 1000 rpm @ correct engine speed.
 
I have a 4010. The PTO shaft cap screws got loose and the internal pin sheared. As it turns out my tractor has a hole drilled in the transmission
case with a 3/4" pipe plug in it. I drained out the trans fluid, put grease on the new pin, lined up the Shaft holes and inserted the pin with one of
those thin parts grabbers. Rolled the shaft over and inserted the cotter pin same way. I had put a small Christmas tree light inside the hole so
could see perfectly. Obviously, The hole has to be drilled and tapped exactly in line with the pin. After that, easy fix. I used one of those small
telescoping magnets to grab out the broken parts. Lastly, I drilled the PTO cap screws and threaded the cap screws with wire. So, my friend,
the story is very true. I am the owner of a 4010 that has been fixed 2x that way, as it turns out.
 

Thanks for reply. I sure thought there would be enough pressure on the spring loaded shift rod(key 59) & associated parts(keys 29-36) to keep one from inserting pin(key 32) easily. How did you keep pin(key 32) from turning while spreading cotter key(key 31)? I'd sure like to view a Youtube video of someone replacing the pin & cotter key through a 3/4'' hole.

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I'll explain a little more. I put a small White Christmas tree light in the hole. It lit up the entire space without obstructing the hole. The small parts
grabber fit thru. I put grease on the pin, when put into the shaft grease kept it stuck in place. I rolled the shaft over and put the cotter pin in. I
rolled the shaft 1/4 turn more. The cotter pin was now sideways. I pushed a screw driver between the halves of the cotter pin and twisted, thus
spreading them apart. Now keep one thing in mind: I was thrilled I discovered the hole drilled in the transmission case. It meant the repair had
been done before by someone who knew what to do. I just took my time and worked patiently. Also, I assume a JD mechanic figured this out as
the hole needs to be directly in line with the pin. Needs to be drilled and tapped for a pipe plug. I would think that part takes the better skill.
 

Northvale PA
Thanks for explanation. Could you please post a photo of this added hole with plug so that an idea can be determined for hole location?
Thanks,Jim
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:25 08/24/17)
In reply to your statement about drilling hole in trans case to replace the tiny pin & even smaller cotter key. I would like to witness that little maneuver as the cotter key would be tedious to install & spread looking through a hole in trans case. Not to forget that the rod inside the pto shaft is "spring loaded" so compressing spring to install "tiny pin" would require just short of a miracle.

Have done several of them. Take the front and rear shift springs and pins out, put new pin in with a magnet, turn shaft 180, install cotter key with o-ring pick, spread key with long narrow screwdriver and twist.
 
(quoted from post at 20:45:53 12/26/17)
(quoted from post at 11:45:25 08/24/17)
In reply to your statement about drilling hole in trans case to replace the tiny pin & even smaller cotter key. I would like to witness that little maneuver as the cotter key would be tedious to install & spread looking through a hole in trans case. Not to forget that the rod inside the pto shaft is "spring loaded" so compressing spring to install "tiny pin" would require just short of a miracle.

Have done several of them. Take the front and rear shift springs and pins out, put new pin in with a magnet, turn shaft 180, install cotter key with o-ring pick, spread key with long narrow screwdriver and twist.

At the rear take out #12 snap ring, slide rod back, at the front unscrew #40A or 40B, what ever is installed, take spring and pin out. You can push the other spring ahead thru the hole in case.
 

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