Rear Wheel Adjustments Again

I just finished taking off the cast iron duals on two of our Deere tractors this past weekend. One set is installed and removed every year. The other set had not been taken off in several years. I was surprised as to how they came off better than I had anticipated. I loosened up the 3 bolts and then put pressure on the wedge with the 2 jackscrew bolts. I then rattled on the end of the axle with a pneumatic impact hammer. It seemed to work decently.

Anyway, prior to re-installation, we have wire brushed the inside of the center casting, as well as the wedge itself, working to make sure the surfaces are clean. Prior to installation, we have either greased or oiled the surfaces. The set of duals which are removed annually don't concern me as much, but those which are moved less frequently do concern me some simply because as we have moved some inner wheels and have had quite a fight on our hands. A sledge hammer has been used on the axle to help pop things loose. Are there any suggestions or recommendations as to preparation prior to installation? I had one man tell me to clean them up with the wire brush and then leave them dry. I thought that was asking for future trouble in having rust somewhat "weld" things together. His reasoning being the lubricant attracting dirt. Other's thoughts on this? I tend to lean towards lubricated. What are the thoughts on this? Any preferences on what to use? Grease? Oil? I have never used anti-seize compound, but might this be a better alternative?

At a john deere service school I was at they said not to put anything on the wedges because with lubrication on the wedges it is possible to draw the wedges in to a point that you bust that big center wheel casting. I have seen this happen. I personally use never-seize on the bolt threads and the inside of the wedge against the axle, not on the outside tapper of the wedge. Smoking tight isn't totally necessary on the hub bolts. I think 300 ft lbs is the torque.

No on the anti seize for me. Did it one time. I split the castings on my 720D ! Had them all done and painted too. Was lucky to find cheap replacements locally. I also think some of that was due to heating the castings to get the adjuster freed up. I won't ever heat those again either !
I do use a light smear of grease though. And I DO NOT try and get them tight all at once either. I tighten them up but not real tight. Then go run it some and tighten them more and repeat. Once they get seated in you won't get them to budge anymore and they are tight.

I've heard/seen comments some people put never seize on them, but like the other guy said, put it on the axle side not the wedge side. But here's a novel suggestion: powdered spray graphite. You spray it on but it doesn't collect dirt or moisture because it dries as a powder. And no, I haven't used it, but I'd damn sure try it someday. In fact I'm adjusting my wheels on my JD60. I may try it anyway.....just food for thought.

We used wax paper on the axles on a 3020 which we would widen up to mount a 237 picker in the fall,and then move them back in for row crop work when picking was done. Never had stuck wedges, and wheels could be moved in or out in 10-15 minutes. Old John Deere mechanic suggested this trick.

We use a product called Neolube at work, it's graphite dissolved in isopropyl alcohol. Goes on like black water, dries quickly, super thin and slippery. I've never used it for this application, but probably would try it.