Some confusion on JD 60 duplex carb adjustment

Ok, so I'm in the process of a thorough restoration of a duplex carb off a 60. I will be putting it back on the tractor this week/weekend and I've been researching the adjustment of it. I watched the Steiner video on youtube and I've read manuals and online how to do it. From what I gather this is how it's done.

1. With the governor-to-carb linkage attached, adjust the hand lever-to-governor spring linkage until 600 rpm is reached (with the hand lever all the way back)

2. Adjust the governor arm stop screw until there is a 1/8" gap between the throttle shaft stop screw (on the carb) and the stop peg.

3. With the governor-to-carb linkage disconnected hold throttle shaft against stop and adjust stop screw until 300 rpm is reached.

4. Short out each cylinder one at a time while adjusting the opposite idle screw. Find the faster cylinder and match it to the slower one. Here is where my confusion is. Do I do the idle adjustments with the governor linkage hooked up or do I disconnect it and use a rubber band or zip tie to hold the throttle shaft against the stop screw?

Should I wait to do step 3 until after I adjust the idle screws correctly?

I'm going to send you a link. let me know if it opens for you. Once your linkage is all set,using the 300rpm method, then you start tractor and throttle lever on dash all the way back, put rubber band on throttle lever at carb so it will hold it against the stop pin. Now adjust screw to 600 rpm. Once this is done, then is when you adjust mixture needles to match up rpms between cylinders. This is all done with an initial needle setting of one turn open. Once you equalize rpms between cylinders, you may then re-adjust screw on carb arm to get back to 600 rpm. I'm seeing that my link will not load. My e-mail is open (classic view) so if you contact me, I can e-mail you the factory procedure.

I'm not too fond of the factory setting on them sometimes. I do always like to get the throttle lever held down appox 300 rpm and get both cylinders to run at the same RPM via the idle adjustment screws.
What I DO NOT seem to like is with that 600 rpm and that 1/8" gap at the back linkage is when you shut one off the throttle lever then will really open up on shut down which seems to cause more engine run on or dieseling.

#2 belt pulley cylinder fires 180 degrees after #1 flywheel cylinder fires, then it is a whole 540 degrees until #1 fires again. Consequently it seems like there is always more rpm drop when #1 is shorted out than #2. Since #1 has just fired, #2 isn't contributing as much. It would seem that using the Deere method #1 would have to be set considerably leaner than #2. I have usually idled the tractor and turned each mixture screw in until the engine just starts to slow down and then back the screws out a quarter of a turn. This seems to achieve a smooth idle. Furthermore a lot of the old tachs aren't working. Would someone please comment?

I use a hand held tach on the belt pulley cover has a dimple for it. One cyl. will always seem to run better than the other so you take the fast one and slow it down to the speed of the slow one so they run equal speeds.