JD 435D Overhaul

Hey Guys
I am about to dive into overhauling my JD 435D in late fall, after we are done planting all our food plots. What I'm looking for are in sites into what all I need to do and also watch out for. Below is what I am thinking in order.

Plan of attack!
Assess what all parts I may need.
Find out the availability and cost of all the parts.
Purchase parts so they are in hand.
Disassemble tractor for rebuild.
Machine shop
Assemble engine and reassemble tractor.
Have a party!!!

Please fill free to correct my thinking. Some of you have forgotten more about these tractor than I will ever know.

These tractors are bad about not starting in cool weather so my first thought was to find liner kits. I believe I am looking for Detroit Diesel Cylinder Kit 53 Na 21:1 #5198899. Is this too much compression? Will this cause her to over heat or break?

Bearing set for Mains and Rods, Gasket and seal set. Valves and valve springs.

Thank you for your input.
David
 
Buickanddeere will be along shortly to give you some pointers. He has a healthy knowledge on the requirements of the
435. For gosh sakes don't mention ether though!
 
(quoted from post at 23:17:37 08/01/17) Buickanddeere will be along shortly to give you some pointers. He has a healthy knowledge on the requirements of the
435. For gosh sakes don't mention ether though!

Ether what ether? :shock:
This is probably one of the reason she is so tired. You should NOT need ether to start an engine. But one cylinder want run until it warms up a bit. It takes about 45 seconds before for both cylinders are working. I thought it might be an injector so I replaced both of them (in March with upgraded N 40) and ran the rack. Started and ran a little better at the being of this summer but now it's getting worse (seams to be flooding now from low compression). Fuel is pumping out of the stack until warm. But she pulls good when warmed up. She is just tired!

I've been working on a parts list so that the next person doing this will have a good start.

I have chatted with Buickanddeere in the past and I hope he jumps in here as well. That's who I was thinking about when I posted "forgotten more than I'll ever know".
Thanks
 

Too much fuel will cause hard starting, found the throttle position on mine that opens the rack about 1/3 of the way. Depends on injector size.
The C injectors are even better than the N injectors. Anything larger than 50's just make more smoke without increasing power.
For military only use there were pistons with 25 to 1 compression. The N series 21 to 1's will cause no harm and make an engine out of it once those soggy 17 to 1 S series pistons are gone.
Don't sink the valve height by grinding the valves and seats.
Using a narrower injector gauge when setting injector clearance will advance the injection event and also improve starting.
The 2-53 in the 435 was stripped down with no oil cooler and no spray cooling from the connecting rods. So swap rods if going large injectors above 40's.
There are updated springs for the cam followers and valve springs. Good for 2400rpm continuous and about 2550 fast idle iirc. The old springs will be soft and worn.
Probably should have the cam re-ground and install rebuild cam followers from Detroit Diesel.
The front oil pump can wear and the engine is sensitive to oil leaks from worn balancer, cam and etc bearings. a 3-53 oil pump will bolt right in without mods.
Crank snout will probably need a speedy sleeve to cover the groove .
There is an upgraded oil seal on the blower drive that reduces the opportunity for lube oil to be drawn into the engine.
Pull the mesh innards from the air filter and find a dry air filter element that fits inside without leaks.
install a block heater. Look in the water jacket at the front left under that little plate. Occasional the block cracks there from freezing weather, the spot doesn't drain well. The crack will braze closed.
Detroit Diesel 53 manuals are low cost on eBay.
Use real SF-2 low ash oil speced for two stroke diesels . 30 or 40 straight weight only.
install the optional oval muffler from Deere. Everyone around will appreciate your being polite by not using the round chart can muffler.
Fasten the battery ground cable to a starter mounting bolt.
Install new brake disks, they don't cost very much and will make the tractor stop properly.
Don't break or damage the nosecone. It is made out of unatainium.
SCV's from a 40,420,430 and 1010 in the same chassis style bolt right on and make the tractor more useful.
5:00-15 front tires level the tractor out and less nose high.
 

Thank you for taking the time to write all that out. There is so much their I could never remember it all. I am putting together a parts list and I'd like to see what you think. It's not complete yet but I'll post in a little while.
What would it cost to regrind a cam?

Thank you
 

Parts List for JD 435D There are still more parts that need to be added later. Blower seal kit for one thing.
I found these at Mark Leid Diesel Service Newville PA. 717-776-7725
2 FP-5198899 CYL KIT, 21:1 CR STD. LIST 246.99 EA... 166.71 TOTAL 333.42
1 FP-23517625 GASKET SET, OVERHAUL 2-53 LIST 155.12 EA... 104.71 TOTAL 104.71
2 FP-5149452 SHELL SET, C/R STD. LIST 21.64 EA... 14.61 TOTAL 29.22
3 FP-8924357 SHELL SET, C/S STD IL LIST 20.24 EA... 13.66 TOTAL 40.98
4 FP-5116197 WASHER, THRUST STD. LIST 5.46 EA... 3.69 TOTAL 14.76
1 FP-5198503 SEAL, C/S FRONT LIST 14.46 EA... 9.76 TOTAL 9.76
1 FP-5198502 SLEEVE, C/S FRONT SEAL LIST 8.69 EA... 5.87 TOTAL 5.87
1 FP-5196852 SEAL, C/S REAR OS SGL LIP LIST 23.10 EA... 15.59 TOTAL 15.59
1 FP-23516636 SLEEVE, C/S REAR OIL SEAL LIST 44.70 EA... 30.17 TOTAL 30.17
4 FP-5195948 VALVE KIT, EXHAUST 30D 2V LIST 14.70 EA... 9.92 TOTAL 39.68
4 FP-8921209 SEAL, EXHAUST VALVE GUIDE LIST 1.58 EA... 1.07 TOTAL 4.28
4 FP-5116140 SPRING, EXH VALVE 2V HD LIST 7.38 EA... 4.98 TOTAL 19.92
6 FP-5108918 SPRING, PUSH ROD LIST 4.76 EA…3.21 TOTAL 19.21
Total cost of all parts $667.62
 
(quoted from post at 04:35:23 08/02/17)

The C injectors are even better than the N injectors. Anything larger than 50's just make more smoke without increasing power. high.

As I said I installed N40 but that was what I read in our forum somewhere. May I ask why the C injectors are better?

This is just another of many questions I'll have I'm sure but thanks in advance.
 
(quoted from post at 04:35:23 08/02/17)

The 2-53 in the 435 was stripped down with no oil cooler and no spray cooling from the connecting rods. So swap rods if going large injectors above 40's.
There are updated springs for the cam followers and valve springs. Good for 2400rpm continuous and about 2550 fast idle iirc. The old springs will be soft and worn.
Probably should have the cam re-ground and install rebuild cam followers from Detroit Diesel.
The front oil pump can wear and the engine is sensitive to oil leaks from worn balancer, cam and etc bearings. a 3-53 oil pump will bolt right in without mods.

Four Questions here!

Not going to larger injectors so are there any benefits too going to the spray cooling rods?

Are the replacement valve springs the upgraded springs or do I need to look for a specific part number?

I've never heard of regrinding the cam so, where why and what might that cost.

Do I understand that you are saying that a 2-53 oil pump and a 3-53 pump are the same? And your just saying replace the oil pump?

Thanks Again
 
(quoted from post at 13:20:16 08/05/17)
(quoted from post at 04:35:23 08/02/17)

The 2-53 in the 435 was stripped down with no oil cooler and no spray cooling from the connecting rods. So swap rods if going large injectors above 40's.
There are updated springs for the cam followers and valve springs. Good for 2400rpm continuous and about 2550 fast idle iirc. The old springs will be soft and worn.
Probably should have the cam re-ground and install rebuild cam followers from Detroit Diesel.
The front oil pump can wear and the engine is sensitive to oil leaks from worn balancer, cam and etc bearings. a 3-53 oil pump will bolt right in without mods.

Four Questions here!

Not going to larger injectors so are there any benefits too going to the spray cooling rods?

Are the replacement valve springs the upgraded springs or do I need to look for a specific part number?

I've never heard of regrinding the cam so, where why and what might that cost.

Do I understand that you are saying that a 2-53 oil pump and a 3-53 pump are the same? And your just saying replace the oil pump?

Thanks Again

40's are ok without rod spray cooling.
Detroit Diesel used new part numbers for both the updated cam follower and valve springs . Both sets have have more pressure to prevent valve train float.
Re-grinding the cam takes a little bit off the cam's base circle to allow the cam lobe to be ground back true for full lift and duration.
The 3-53 pump moves more oil than the 2-53 pump. Two strokes with a little wear tend to have low oil pressure at idle.
 
(quoted from post at 02:26:39 08/06/17)
(quoted from post at 13:20:16 08/05/17)
(quoted from post at 04:35:23 08/02/17)

The 2-53 in the 435 was stripped down with no oil cooler and no spray cooling from the connecting rods. So swap rods if going large injectors above 40's.
There are updated springs for the cam followers and valve springs. Good for 2400rpm continuous and about 2550 fast idle iirc. The old springs will be soft and worn.
Probably should have the cam re-ground and install rebuild cam followers from Detroit Diesel.
The front oil pump can wear and the engine is sensitive to oil leaks from worn balancer, cam and etc bearings. a 3-53 oil pump will bolt right in without mods.

Four Questions here!

Not going to larger injectors so are there any benefits too going to the spray cooling rods?

Are the replacement valve springs the upgraded springs or do I need to look for a specific part number?

I've never heard of regrinding the cam so, where why and what might that cost.

Do I understand that you are saying that a 2-53 oil pump and a 3-53 pump are the same? And your just saying replace the oil pump?

Thanks Again

40's are ok without rod spray cooling.
Detroit Diesel used new part numbers for both the updated cam follower and valve springs . Both sets have have more pressure to prevent valve train float.
Re-grinding the cam takes a little bit off the cam's base circle to allow the cam lobe to be ground back true for full lift and duration.
The 3-53 pump moves more oil than the 2-53 pump. Two strokes with a little wear tend to have low oil pressure at idle.

Where would I go to get a cam reground? My machine shop doesn't do cams or cranks. Also do you have any idea what it might cost?
I will ask leid's about the oil pump and cam followers.
According to my oil presure gauge she is running about 20-25 psi at idle and hot and 40-50 mowing in the field.

Thank you
 
(quoted from post at 17:15:48 08/05/17)
(quoted from post at 02:26:39 08/06/17)
(quoted from post at 13:20:16 08/05/17)
(quoted from post at 04:35:23 08/02/17)

The 2-53 in the 435 was stripped down with no oil cooler and no spray cooling from the connecting rods. So swap rods if going large injectors above 40's.
There are updated springs for the cam followers and valve springs. Good for 2400rpm continuous and about 2550 fast idle iirc. The old springs will be soft and worn.
Probably should have the cam re-ground and install rebuild cam followers from Detroit Diesel.
The front oil pump can wear and the engine is sensitive to oil leaks from worn balancer, cam and etc bearings. a 3-53 oil pump will bolt right in without mods.

Four Questions here!

Not going to larger injectors so are there any benefits too going to the spray cooling rods?

Are the replacement valve springs the upgraded springs or do I need to look for a specific part number?

I've never heard of regrinding the cam so, where why and what might that cost.

Do I understand that you are saying that a 2-53 oil pump and a 3-53 pump are the same? And your just saying replace the oil pump?

Thanks Again

40's are ok without rod spray cooling.
Detroit Diesel used new part numbers for both the updated cam follower and valve springs . Both sets have have more pressure to prevent valve train float.
Re-grinding the cam takes a little bit off the cam's base circle to allow the cam lobe to be ground back true for full lift and duration.
The 3-53 pump moves more oil than the 2-53 pump. Two strokes with a little wear tend to have low oil pressure at idle.

Where would I go to get a cam reground? My machine shop doesn't do cams or cranks. Also do you have any idea what it might cost?
I will ask leid's about the oil pump and cam followers.
According to my oil presure gauge she is running about 20-25 psi at idle and hot and 40-50 mowing in the field.

Thank you

That is good oil pressure for a 2-53.
I googled this and had plenty of hits .reground camshaft detroit diesel
 
(quoted from post at 10:06:32 08/07/17)
(quoted from post at 17:15:48 08/05/17)
(quoted from post at 02:26:39 08/06/17)
(quoted from post at 13:20:16 08/05/17)
(quoted from post at 04:35:23 08/02/17)

The 2-53 in the 435 was stripped down with no oil cooler and no spray cooling from the connecting rods. So swap rods if going large injectors above 40's.
There are updated springs for the cam followers and valve springs. Good for 2400rpm continuous and about 2550 fast idle iirc. The old springs will be soft and worn.
Probably should have the cam re-ground and install rebuild cam followers from Detroit Diesel.
The front oil pump can wear and the engine is sensitive to oil leaks from worn balancer, cam and etc bearings. a 3-53 oil pump will bolt right in without mods.

Four Questions here!

Not going to larger injectors so are there any benefits too going to the spray cooling rods?

Are the replacement valve springs the upgraded springs or do I need to look for a specific part number?

I've never heard of regrinding the cam so, where why and what might that cost.

Do I understand that you are saying that a 2-53 oil pump and a 3-53 pump are the same? And your just saying replace the oil pump?

Thanks Again

40's are ok without rod spray cooling.
Detroit Diesel used new part numbers for both the updated cam follower and valve springs . Both sets have have more pressure to prevent valve train float.
Re-grinding the cam takes a little bit off the cam's base circle to allow the cam lobe to be ground back true for full lift and duration.
The 3-53 pump moves more oil than the 2-53 pump. Two strokes with a little wear tend to have low oil pressure at idle.

Where would I go to get a cam reground? My machine shop doesn't do cams or cranks. Also do you have any idea what it might cost?
I will ask leid's about the oil pump and cam followers.
According to my oil presure gauge she is running about 20-25 psi at idle and hot and 40-50 mowing in the field.

Thank you

That is good oil pressure for a 2-53.
I googled this and had plenty of hits .reground camshaft detroit diesel

My apologizes
I googled it (after you reminded me) and found it as well. Even found a new cam but praying I never need it. I was told to check mine for scratches groves or pits. If that's all good then we will mic lobe heights for wear
Sorry about such a dumb question thanks for the help.
 

There are several shops that grind cans for tractor pullers. They should be reasonable to true up the existing cam. Some of those Detroit Diesel shop do charge a frightful sum. The cam followers should be exchanged for rebuilt units.
 

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