Another no. 5 mower question

Rich'sToys

Well-known Member
Location
Southern MN
Due to a boneheaded move on my part I find myself needing to replace the large steel drag bar on my mower (part no 14B in the first photo).
In order to do this I need to either to remove the wheel which drives the pitman (part no. 18 in the second photo) or move it forward by at least 4 or 5 inches. Just wondering what would be the easiest way to accomplish this. I've never had one of these apart, and I'm not seeing how that wheel comes off. Any insights would be appreciated.

1305.jpg


1306.jpg
 
The flywheel is held on by a tapered key with a riased spot on the outer end,(I don't know what thaty type key is called) if it is the way it should be. If you can move it foreward on the shaft a bit, then push it back you may be able to get something between the piece on the end of the key and flywheel to pry key out. It may come off fairly easy or really hard depending upon how long it has been on there. It is fairly substancial so you can put some force on it, a big 3 leg puller would probably work best.
 
I did see the head of that key but wasn't sure how it worked.
Is it possible to take the sprocket and bearing off the other end and slide the whole shaft and wheel forward? Or is that just creating a bigger problem?
 
"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Just wondering what would be the easiest way to accomplish this.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Removed the drag bar many years ago when refurbishing our No. 5 mower.

a167684.jpg" width="650"


Note the crank has not been removed.

Take another look at the [b:654c4848f0]DRAG BAR, BRACE BAR, AND YOKE[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

a167681.jpg" width="650"




Note the Pull Bar (Key 3), Pull Bar Horned Nut (Key 4), Collar to Drag Bar Pin (Key 5), Drag Bar Coupling Collar (Key 25), Machine Bolt (Key 19), Tilting Arm Extension (Key 21), Drag Bar (Key 14B), Drag Bar Nut (Key 15), and Drag Bar Washer (Key 16).

This is one method of removing the drag bar.

Take a look at the photo below.

a167683.jpg" width="650"




1. Remove the pull bar horned nut from the pull bar.

2. Remove the machine bolt from the tilting arm extension.

3. Remove the collar to drag bar pin from the drag bar coupling collar.

The yoke and cutter bar can now be moved away from the drag bar.

4. Remove the drag bar nut and washer from the drag bar.

The drag bar can now be removed from the housing.

Hope this helps.
 
James,
Thanks for the reply. The problem I am running into is after I removed the nut and washer (15 &amp; 16) there is not enough room to slide the piece forward and out without hitting the back of the crank wheel. There is only 4" between the front of that casting and the back of the wheel. The drag bar is nearly 8" from the end of the threads to the outside of the curve. Am I missing something?
Thanks again for your help.
 
Could not disagree more. Those flywheels are cast and not substantial for beating on. I wanted to remove mine to replace the bearings and seals in the gear box. Soaked it for a few weeks. No go. Heated it. No go. Got out the puller and still no go. Finally the puller broke the crank and I was able to get the crank off with the puller and a hammer.. I was able to get a used crank but things did not go easy getting that crank off at all. When I then put the used crank on it was a bit different of a fit and I had a hard time from then out keeping everything tight on that crank.

I would stay away from messing with the crank if possible from my experience.
 
"[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Am I missing something?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

No.

I am missing part of my long term memory.

Started looking more closely at the first photo and decided that maybe the drag bar was not removed.

Went out and looked at the mower and realized/remembered that the drag bar nut was taped off before painting.

I do remember that the mower was dismantled except for the housing from the frame.

Sorry for the misinformation on that end of the drag bar.

The late Pat Browning would always say "[i:654c4848f0]Crow is best eaten while still warm.[/i:654c4848f0]"
 
No problem.
I'll have to tear deeper into this thing and see what I can come up with.
Do you think it's possible to move the crank wheel and shaft forward as a unit after maybe taking the sprocket and bearing off the other end?
If not, I'll maybe have to see about getting that wheel off--or else come up with a new plan!
Thanks for your efforts. Your pictures and explanations are always so thorough.
 
I use it for mowing and trimming weeds around our place. In fact, that's how I broke the drag bar. I was trimming some large weeds in one direction. I was backing into the weeds for the next pass when the very end of the bar hit something I didn't realize was there. It's amazing what one can break with 7 ft. of leverage!!
 
james, i know im a red guy, but i have a number 5 and did replace the seal behind what you refer to as the crank. ie big cast wheel that drives the pitman. i drilled into the gib key and tapped it to accept a bolt, i think 1/4-20 and used my slide hammer to remove the key. iirc the shaft that the crank is attached to has like ribs on it that holds the crank on. after i got the gib out, a puller easily took the crank off. it seems the gib key forces the crank sideways a tiny bit and it locks on the ribs on the shaft. dunno if that will help you or not.
 

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