1020 injector pump

Jethro Lilley · Jul 26, 2017

I have a rebuilt DBGFC 331-1AJ pump from the local dealer that stopped pumping 6 weeks out of warranty. The first time I noticed a problem was the end of June when it wouldn't start but a shot of ether cranked it up and it ran a 6ft Bush Hog Squealer all day just fine. It started several times all day for our July 4th parade (pulled a wagon-load of Lilleys and won 1st prize) and then it was parked. Last week it would not start and ether did no good. No smoke from the exhaust. I checked the fuel flow to the injector pump with good steady fuel flow. Cracked open the 3 injector lines and no fuel. Drained the coolant, took off the bottom hose and removed the inspection cap to see if the nut was tight and the shaft was turning... it was. I'm at my wits end.

Have I missed something? I really don't want to give Mother Deere another 1500 bucks for another rebuilt pump if it isn't absolutely necessary.

Mike M · Jul 26, 2017

Is the return line and or fitting plugged from debris from the old pump that failed ?

Dieseltech · Jul 26, 2017

Take the two screw timing cover off the side, and after fuel stops coming out bump the engine over and see if the front plate with the timing mark is turning, if not the head is seized and drive shaft is broke. If it does turn you may have the metering valve and/or rotor plungers stuck inside. If there's ever been water in the fuel in the past that will cause parts to stick. As mentioned the return line back to the tank needs to be clean too, if not when the housing pressure becomes equal to transfer pressure the rotor plungers will not move during the charging cycle. Plugged return in most cases engine will start, then die, after housing pressure bleeds off start and die again.

JDEM · Jul 26, 2017

I don't know if you had two different "no start"events or just one for all. When it would not start, and then did with ether and ran all day afterwards says the pump is turning fine. In that case, it sounds like sticking linkage to the metering-valve. Easy to verify by taking the top of the pump off and moving it back and forth by hand. Or very low fuel delivery at cranking speed but plenty once running. That often indicates head & rotor wear (no fix, just replacement). Note that a worn head & rotor often means hard starting when hot too. Hard starting but may run fine, once going.

As to a complete no-start- I'd want to be sure the pump is actually turning inside. It has a driveshaft designed to snap if the pump turns too hard, to protect the timing gears in front of the engine. If you verify it is turning, I'd pull the top off and make sure the metering valve is in "run" position and not in "off."

Jethro Lilley · Jul 27, 2017

Thanks for the reply... double thanks for the pic... working the next two days... will pop the top on Saturday... looks like it can be done without removing the pump.

1020 injector pump

Jethro Lilley

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Mike M

Well-known Member

Dieseltech

Well-known Member

JDEM

Well-known Member

Jethro Lilley

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