Power-trol Problem

Hey guys,

I have a 1950 B with the power-trol on it. Have used it before some with a front cultivator, and last night decided to put a 3 point conversion on it. Well, long story short I let the rockshaft arm bind on the the lift arm while raising, and the bottom dummy plug went flying out across the shop. I replaced it, added some more oil, and fixed the binding issue. Now, here's the problem - seems like the lift is only coming up in stages, or steps. Also seems weak, will not lift me (225#) past a certain point in slow raise, will lift me to the top in fast raise position, but wants to sink down a few inches then hold. Also, the drop is very fast, I have little to nothing on slow lower. I have ordered SM-2022 so if I need to take things apart and replace seals, etc. I can. I'm hoping that all I've done is blown and o-ring or something, but I'd be interested to know what you all think.

Thanks in advance, Mac
 
"dummy plug went flying"
New o-rings in the dummy plug port might fix the plug blowing problem. They'll give you a quick oil bath if you're standing in the right place.

Voice of experience. Twice! Slow learner. . .
 
There is a rate of drop adjust screw behind the cap nut on the rear most lower center of the valve body. I forget which way is which when you turn it.
Also seems like it needs some air worked out of it ? in which case several raising and lowering will work it out.
 
I'm wondering if that isn't the case as well. I think I'll change the oil in it also, since I haven't ever done that since I've owned it. Heck, I may just have not put enough oil in it last night, so the pump may be sucking air. I'll check that later when I get home. Thanks for the input.

Mac
 
There is usually what looks like a radiator petcock on the side of the valve box, that is where you check the oil level.
 
I thought that was what that was for. I poured a quart of 30wt in the p/t unit last night with that petcock open and didn't get anything out, so I wonder if I its a) plugged up or b) just isn't full enough. That's why I wanted to drain it all out and start over. I am just afraid of overfilling the unit. But, someone in the archives said the p/t unit likes to have oil within an inch of the filler plug. Truth or ?

Mac
 
Overfilling it won't kill it ,but to the oil level petcock is all it needs. Those are usually pretty trouble free units for the most part.
 
Ya, I'm afraid of that really. I hope not. My Powr-trol manual is supposed to be here Monday, and I'll troubleshoot it some more over the weekend. Maybe I'll get it fixed without having to tear into it, but if not I will go ahead and replace what I can while I'm in there. Are the seals and gaskets, etc still available from Mother Deere, or are they aftermarket?

Mac
 
Ok guys, 6 quarts of oil and 2 more blowouts later, I got it fixed! It was a combination of a couple things.

1. The bolts holding the 3point lift arm mounting plate stuck out and were binding the lift arms, stopping them from going all the way up.

2. The little spring steel plate holding pressure on the pins that hold the plugs in was loose, so I tightened that sucker up til it will NOT move.

Third times a charm, right? Well I gave 'er a whirl and how about it, she works! Rockshaft arms go all the way up and the lever goes to neutral. Slow and fast raise are good and it'll lift the sprayer and the 6' blade. Now to work on the slow lower function, as it only works to a certain point. Thanks for all your help guys!

Mac
 
Pete, according to my SM-2011 service manual, in the Troubleshooting section, under the heading "Neoprene O-ring failures" it lists "Cause - Inner (lift) expels hose coupling" "remedy - Replace O-ring".

I messed around trying to keep the couplers in on a B that I had, and an old JD mechanic told me to replace both O-rings in the coupler cavity. That fixed it.
 
Thanks PJH. I never noticed that in my SM-2011. The op said a dummy plug blew out, not a hose coupling. Anyway, when he tightened up the locking pawls the problem went away. Thanks again.
 
You're right Pete. I'm reading one thing and seeing another thing in my mind. That might not affect the dummy plugs.
 
Agree.

a163709.jpg" width="650"


 
"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Now to work on the slow lower function[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]POWR-TROL VALVE HOUSING[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

a163713.jpg" width="650"


Note the Cap Nut (Key 47), 3/8" Nut (Key 49), and Screw (Key 50).

Take a look at the photo below.

a163714.jpg" width="650"






Take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]ADJUSTING POWR-TROL METERING SCREW[/b:654c4848f0] topic.

a163712.jpg" width="650"


Hope this helps.
 

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