Tim boyd

Member
Agin,I'm here asking for help. I'm working on my 4020, it was tired and short on hp so I rebuilt it. There has been no money spared on this project. The head has been
completely gone thru,I have great compression now. Overall the tractor runs great but I think I'm getting to much fuel, I still smoke!!!!! The pump has been redone
but that was prior to the rebuild. So my question is how do I turn the pump down.???? It has a roosa on it and Im in the weeds when it comes to injector pump. Thanks
in advance for your help and imput
 
First you should dyno it to see exactly where you are on hp..the smoke might be advance issues.
 
I 2nd the other response. I was searching on the archives here, about another issue, and came across a question similar to yours. That person was told by a few former Deere mechanics that the injection pumps get wore with a lot of use, and he may have to advance his pump SLIGHTLY. I think it was half the timing line, or maybe it was the full width of the line.

It's worth a try, and much much easier than turning down the fuel on those pumps.

I'm going to try it on my 720, which is acting just like your 4020 is. I also had the pumps, injectors, head, ect, all rebuilt and still have too much smoke.
 

Tim
1st thing I'll suggest is to check inj pump timing. How old are the injectors? Have the injectors ever been tested? If not test injectors before altering internal setting on IP
 
I'd suspect pump advance issues too, or injectors. Early tractors had five degrees pump for ten at the crankshaft, late models had eight degrees pump, sixteen at the crank. If one or more injectors has just one hole plugged will cause more smoke too. Late pencil injectors can also smoke if the valve lift is set too high. Has the air cleaner system been checked, could simply be starving for air..
 
I forgot to mention that i had the injector tested and had to replace one, also i hand washed the entire air system because i read somewhere that they can plug up in the elbows leaveing the can. I also replaced the air filter, i also should have said its a 1968 with pencil injectors. By advanceing the pump will hurt anything??? thanks
 
I advanced the pump on 67 4020 to 10 degrees, per Tim S suggestion, really lit the tractor up, but it should not smoke @ TDC.
 
Did it smoke before the rebuild?

If not, you might have timed the oil pump incorrectly during the rebuild.
 
Yes it did smoke terribly, now it smokes at a idle more than i am comfortable with, run it up on rpms and it clears up for the most part
 
I would think pump advance should show up more at higher RPM's.

What did you set initial timing at?

smoking at idle sure sounds like leaky injector to me.
 
This is now where my ignorance comes into play, as i know NOTHING about injection systems prior to takeing anything apart i took notes of where everything was at on tdc and pricked everything so i could put it back as it was. So what it is, is what it was. I now wish i would have spent more time with dad when he was alive and owned the IH dealership and in the injection room. Lol
 
Now im second guessing myself on the valve train, the I-T book i have says set the valves at 18 intake and 18 exhuast???????
 
Set flywheel on TDC, take window off injector pump, line on pump body and line on rotor should line up.

Make sure of that first, then go from there.

Remember there are two TDC's, if you do not see line, rotate engine one full turn to TDC and check again.
 
Now that u say that, yesterday i rolled it over untill i had tdc on the flywheel and look in the injector window and saw that i could see one line on the top but i didnt see a 2 lines, what did i do wrong??? Sure hope i havnt hurt anything
 
There is a static advance for idle that it is probably better to advance to avoid blue smoke.
But if your high rpm advance is too much you will have black smoke under load and the tractor will tend to run very hot.
A late 4020 is already limited so i woyld try to get it per the book using a translucid timing window and adjusting the trimmer screw. Your local dealer should have one or you can make one with a transparent plastic box


Just remember that you may be messing with yoir static advance because the auto advance is not set properly
 
You were 180 off,,needed to turn the engine one more full turn, I have been setting the valves at 18 intake, 28 exhaust cold,,when you have the TDC line in place and the 2 pump marks lined up do the first 3 valves (from the front) skip one,do one skip one do one,skip one do one, then turn the engine 1 full turn to the mark on the flywheel and do the other half.
a163272.jpg
 
Ok so im back in the shop. I turned the flywheel to tdc, only had one mark on the ip, turned the flywheel one full turn untill i was at tdc, had both marks in the ip window. So i must be close to right??????
 
Yes, now there will be some lost motion because of cam/oil pump gear wear, but leave it where it's at for now and re-adjust your valves the way I described and see what you have,,did you use break in oil or a break in additive?/if not you will need to..I have been using erson cams Zddp about one of these per gallon of engine oil, leave it in there till tile to change oil again.
a163283.jpg
 
Yes, adjust the pump until the two marks line up at TDC, run and report back.

Roll it two full turns after that to make sure it comes back to same place, you will have slop in the gears.
 
That is the process I used when I set them, except I set the valve both at 18,I will redo them in the morning aswell as double check everything agin. Thank you all very much for your help
 
Ok so im back at it and i did just as u said and just as the diagram showed, still runs the same...i am quickly getting that sickining feeling
 

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