4020-- Is this one a diamond in the rough, or ?????

Scott 730

Well-known Member
Location
EC MN
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I have the opportunity to pick this one up very reasonably. Previous owner passed away after a stint in the nursing home. It has sat for maybe 6-8 years. It is 1000 miles from home, so I can't check anything out further until I am back out there. I spent some time checking it over while I was there and this is what I found.

The good.
1971 Side console model
3 factory SCV's
Complete 3 point
Powershift
38" rears
Factory hub duals w/ rims not shown
158 loader with no visible repairs
Fluids were full and showed no contamination.
Engine turned slightly when pulling on fan
Drawbar is in the bucket
Price is very reasonable.


The bad.
Rear tires and rims are junk. Will take a pair with to move it
Needs side screens and covers
Home made battery box
Front knees are reinforced Don't look too bad, I've seen worse

The ugly.
Hood is hacked up in front of the muffler with a tin snips. Maybe someone tried to get to the clamp this way.
Hood has usual front lip damage.
It is 1000 miles from home.

Now I will open the can of worms.

If I leave the loader, duals, and possibly the cab behind for another trip, and put on different rear tires and rims with no fluid, could I haul this thing on a 14K gooseneck? I have the truck part covered. I really don't have access to a tandem dually trailer as of now. Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Being a late model with PS and 3 hydraulics, you'd better go get it. You'd be well under 14K with the cab and loader.

HAve fun!
 
I have a 16 ft gooseneck trailer with two seven thousand pound axles and I would not be afraid to haul it.Make sure your trailer tires are good and brakes as well. We run an E load range 16inch tires.I would not even put different tires and rims on it to haul it.If you have another tractor to use to load it you could hook the loader hoses to that to raise it. I have a tongue about seven ft long with hitch clevis on both ends that we use to load, unload and move dead tractors.Make sure it is heavy square tube as we bent up the first pipe one we had. If the steering will not work from setting so long we use a shaft about six feet long stuck between the tire and the spindle as a lever.When finished you will have a very desirable tractor.You might get enough for that third outlet(if you do not need it) to buy a set of tires and rims.Looks like with some work you will have something nice when finished. Tom
 
Remember 14K is the max weight of load and trailer, so assuming trailer is 4K, that leaves you 10K, I bet that is 11-12K real weight
 
It is a good one to start with. I would be cautious on hauling it on a 14K trailer. I bought one over in WI with an Allied loader on it. I noticed it was pulling hard so I weight it. It had the tires loaded, heavy castings, plus the loader. It weight in at 13,500 LBS. Most will be under 10K but a JD 4020 can be heavier.
 
The good! 158 loader with grapple $3500 dual hubs $400 has factory fenders save you $500+ power shift adds but has to work good and PTO brake be good.Needs side screens,also missing rockshaft covers. It would be cheaper to have it hauled compared to 2 trips plus worry about tires later.For piece of mind I would put batteries in it and get it running plus much easier loading. You didn't say what reasonable is but its worth at least $10K and more if it runs.I personally wont buy a tractor that wont run unless it is salvage value.Problems can cost more than they are worth.I would say diamond in rough!
 
Thanks to all for the replies. I want to clarify a few points.

Right rear tire is junk. Has a large hole in it and all fluid is on the ground. I would assume the left tire is loaded also. Tire is cracked and rim looks very weak. I have 2 dry tires and rims to put on it for the move. The old ones can be left where they are. This will save weight.

I make this trip several times a year, so it would not be a problem to drop the loader and possibly the cab in order to save weight for the first trip.

I have nothing to go by to estimate weight except for what I read on Tractor Data. so am trying to get this thing trimmed down to go on a 14K trailer if possible.
 
From what my trailer sales guy told me with a gooseneck you can haul right up to the limit as more weight can transfer to the truck. So a 14K gooseneck should be good to haul 14K on it. I'd drag it up on the way it sits. You don't need good tires or rims to haul them. Too much work to change in the field. I've driven and hauled lots of A's and B's without tires on the rims and even on the cast centers because they had no rims.
 
If that trailer has any Good in it at all it will deal with a couple thousand pounds over ;^) I can tell most of you guys have not been exposed to the Oil field or Logging industry...Where the saying came from: "Don't worry about the Mule, just load the wagon"
 
I have a '71 4020 with factory cab (the one shown is not) and without duals but with fluid in the tires it will weigh in excess of 13,500 lbs. without a loader on it but a few front end weights. If the tractor shown has fluid (guessing it does, given the fact the rims are shot) it will weigh close to 15,000 lbs. with the loader on it, or thereabouts. As for value, I would say you will trade the value of the loader for the parts you will need to make the tractor run and make it look good. In other words, buy it for whatever you think the tractor is worth. The value of the loader will offset the parts prices. Hope this helps. My opinion. Mike
 
(quoted from post at 14:18:04 06/12/17) I have a '71 4020 with factory cab (the one shown is not) and without duals but with fluid in the tires it will weigh in excess of 13,500 lbs. without a loader on it but a few front end weights. If the tractor shown has fluid (guessing it does, given the fact the rims are shot) it will weigh close to 15,000 lbs. with the loader on it, or thereabouts. As for value, I would say you will trade the value of the loader for the parts you will need to make the tractor run and make it look good. In other words, buy it for whatever you think the tractor is worth. The value of the loader will offset the parts prices. Hope this helps. My opinion. Mike

Thanks Mike. I am concerned about the actual weight of this thing. That is why dry tires will be put on it prior to loading on the trailer, and the 158 loader will be left behind for another trip.

FYI. The 4020 has been removed from the estate. It is at a long time friends place now. I can take my time to move it. It's safe where it is.
 
Wouldn't even think of hauling it that far
pushing the trailers limits. A few miles
down the road is one thing, but that's a
hike. Get the right trailer and bring it all
at once. I've got a 16k trailer that I've
hauled a 4320 on a few times. That's a load.
 
There is trucking brokers on tractor house with the ads if you're
not in a hurry you can get it on someone's back hall pretty
reasonable
 

I had a 4440 hauled almost 900 miles for around $1000 by putting it on Uship, a website where truckers bid on jobs. I wouldnt be concerned about the trailer but the trailer tires I would be. Personally I wouldnt do it unless you had a dual tandem. But thats just me. Like Tim said, people grossly overload stuff all the time....I just saw a guy hauling 26 or so roll bales on two hay wagons in trail, behind a late 70s f250 (which of course had the only brakes in that train) and on our hilly roads too...hope he didnt have to stop lol.
 
Update!!!!!!





Made the 1000 mile trip without a hitch. 4 new 14 ply tires on the trailer before I left home. Anyone want to guess my weight? Ran it over the scale at the first grain elevator I came to.
After chasing a few electrical gremlins I have it turning over with the key. Now I need to get fuel to it.
I have power to the shutoff solenoid in the pump. How much trouble can I get myself into if I remove the 3 screws and look inside the cover over the shutoff solenoid?
Took out what looks like a bleeder screw in the cover and had a stream of fuel running out after about 10 seconds.
Cracked the timing cover screws open a bit and had fuel coming out so I tightened them back up.
What do I need to be looking at to get fuel to start this thing?

mvphoto3437.jpg
 
For your problem, there is 2 possibility:
If you hear a quite audible click at the pump, the solenoid inside of the pump is 90% sure to be good, and you probably have a stuck metering valve: You have to remove the pump and sent it to a shop.

If you do not hear a click, the solenoid is stuck or not working, then you can remove the cover and try to see what is going on.
You can try to loosen the solenoid helper spring by hand to see if you can make it click. A new solenoid is probably better, but I think that in that case, you can remove the helper spring inside of the cover and set it in the on position to test the pump.
You may not be able to stop the tractor after that, except by stalling it.
It is better to have a wood block ready on the intake after tractor setting so long anyway, in case pump gets stuck wide open.
 

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