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John Deere A

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banjoman09

Well-known Member
I have recently "restored" a 1950 "A" and it did turn out great! - I think! My axles stick outside the wheels about 6" and about took out my shed door the other night. Do you guys make the outside of the tire even with the axle? I guess it is "unstyled" as it does not have fenders; just want to know if I should move them out? Thanks.
 
IF the tractor is not needed for field work with a certain row spacing I would space the tires out more. Wider is more stable anyway.
 
"styled" has nothing to do with fenders. ":Styled" means it had the grills and hood designed by Henry Dreyfuss introduced in 1939. Prior to that the tractors had an exposed radiator in the front- maybe someone here can post pictures of good examples???

As for the door, it will not be a 20 minute job to move the wheels. More like A LOT of heat, cleaning of splines, beating with a hammer, perhaps a hydraulic jack. I'd just suggest you drive carefully :). You will be used to it in a hurry.
 
Ok...I think it would be safer to have them out to the end- or close. Thanks for the info on "styled"...so mine is "styled". Good to know.....I think I can jack them out when I get time. Thanks for the advice!
 
Would my tractor look "better" if It add fenders? 1950..... I know maybe its personal preference....thanks for your advice:)
 
I agree with the comments about a wider wheel set giving more stability.

Unless your trailer is a deck-over you might want to measure the distance between the fenders before you move the wheels.

An easy solution to your door problem would be to mark the center of the door opening at the top of the opening. Then you can line up the muffler and air stack on the mark when you pull in.
 
Just an opinion but I think a late "A" should have the "clam shell" fenders like they would have came with as an option. In my state they were mandatory when new...for obvious safety reasons. Just balances out a styled tractor better and heaven forbid anything just happen to throw you sideways (pot hole inroad etc) I would like knowing I would hit a fender as apposed to hitting a rotating tire with lugs on it..but that's just me. I'd like to think I've learned a few things from what I've witnessed through my 66 years. My '50 "B" axles stick out 3" past wheel clamp. They have been known to "walk" sometimes on axle..I like a little insurance. Welcome to JD hobby...you picked a good one to start . Post us some pics when you can.
 
I push mine out because those pesky protruding axles do tend to catch things and cause damage. I do limit the width (outside of wheel to outside of opposite wheel) to 83" or slightly less so it will go on trailers. And you don't have to have the center casting flush with the end of the shaft, just out enough so that the axle does not extend past the outside edge of the tire and this will prevent the axle from catching on things.

I fabed up a puller to pull the wheel out, which made things a lot easier. I take wheel completely off and clean up the axle splines until it slides on easy. I know others object to this, but I put on a very thin coating of never seize right where the hub is finally going to set. Some say this will cause the wheel to move on its own, but I have never had an issue.
 
You can get a pretty good set of re-productions for $ 250 a set last I knew. You don't need "brackets" as they bolt directly to the tapped holes in top of the axle. I assume yours is a square axle tractor ? I guess it depends on your S/N as some early 1950 A still had the round axle and thus took the brackets and what they called the "round top" full coverage fender...and yes they are more expensive than the later clam shells.. Still worth it , tho , in my opinion.
 
Yes I have the "round" axles.....bolts are in the sides....so does it still take "clam shell" fenders...and then the brackets? I do plan on moving my wheels out after harvest. Thanks for everyones help and advise!
 
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