336 baler

K Effective · Jun 9, 2017

My 336 square baler breaks the shear pin in the flywheel almost every time I use it, but bales just fine, either with new bolt or with broken bolt. Any things to look for first? Thanks

Tx Jim · Jun 9, 2017

Have you checked slip clutch to be sure it's not stuck? Stuck slip clutch can cause premature failure of FW shear bolt. Does plunger head safety stop arm clear crankshaft arm?? Lever(key 12) has been known to have the angle stretched from repeated contact with needle frame during tying cycle allowing stop(key 1) to clip CS arm.

tim s · Jun 9, 2017

If it breaks when there seems to be no strong sound of impact it could be the holes in the shear pin bushings are worn,and or the flywheel end play may need attention. If these things are happening the wobble in the shear bolt area will cause the pin to break. The shear pin only drives the flywheel, not the baler,the inertia of the fly wheel works in harmony with the clutch as Jim stated.

craigco · Jun 9, 2017

Have an old 14t that would break the
flywheel pin. No impact sounds. The
knifes were dull and the hay was enough
to stop the plunger.

tim s · Jun 9, 2017

Your shear pin was jiggling in the worn hole and breaking, then your slip clutch was slipping when the hay was pushing hard. Some times the bushing in the fly wheel will get worn and the play will break the pin, leave the pin out and grab a hold of the flywheel and wiggle it..see how much play you have, my bet is a lot...

Hayfarmer · Jun 9, 2017

I agree with worn holes and slack in flywheel. My NH baler would "wear out" shear bolts in flywheel. No pop or bang when they went, everything just stopped moving. I changed the center bushing in flywheel and that helped some but shimming up flywheel took care of most of the problem. NH has a bushing in flywheel around shear pin, I don't remember if JD does or not

K Effective · Jun 9, 2017

Thanks for the suggestions, I am headed out there now to look for flywheel play, and the other items as well. I should have added more info- brand new JD shear bolts (kinda surprising, right) that are slip tight in the holes. This baler was my buddies, who had most equipment dealer serviced. It made 10-15K bales a year for them (ten years), but for the last 20 years, only 3-4K for me.

My knives may be dull/out of adjustment, I know I disassembled the slip clutch and readjusted tension within the last five years, to verify condition of the clutch surfaces.

This surprises me more when it happened with later cuttings- first is heavy, but without irrigation, our second and following cuts are rarely that heavy.

Thanks again for the ideas. I'll follow up.

Tx Jim · Jun 10, 2017

(quoted from post at 11:16:35 06/09/17) NH has a bushing in flywheel around shear pin, I don't remember if JD does or not

Yes JD sq balers have a replaceable shear bolt bushing in flywheel

K Effective · Jun 11, 2017

UPDATE: Surprisingly, the shear bolt I replaced to start this season has not broken yet. I checked the items you all suggested, to some degree. With the shear bolt still in, I do definitely have play in the flywheel- if held at 3 and 9 o'clock, there may be a quarter inch of movement on each edge. The shear bolt is snug in the bushing, but if I am to remove the flywheel to replace the center bushing, might as well get both, even though they are $26 and $28 each. I checked the plunger head safety arm, not signs of contact with any other part, and the lever TxJim mentioned seems tight and barely worn. I am sure the knives are dull/worn, but will start with the bushings and see how that helps. Maybe best to work the knives after the season when I clean the baler out. Second cutting and after rarely challenges the knives like first does. Thanks again for all the help.

336 baler

K Effective

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Tx Jim

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tim s

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craigco

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tim s

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Hayfarmer

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K Effective

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Tx Jim

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K Effective

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