carburetor confusion

bob6940

Member
I have a early styled JD-B with a DLT-13 carb on it. I'm having trouble finding a rebuild kit for it,it's in very poor shape. I'm really confused over all the
different model carbs for JD's and if any are interchangeable.Since I bought the tractor as an entry level to get into pulling, I've been told I should put an A
carb on it, but I doubt it's that simple.Rebuilding what I have seems to be the practical fix, but spending money on the same thing twice is always a bad idea if
I need to upgrade it later.Any advice on my existing carb or what I can swap it out with would be appreciated.JD carbs seem confusing.
 
If I remember right the early styled B's will have a DLTX 34 carburetor. The number is stamped on the opposite side of the carb from the choke lever. Sounds like you are looking at the number that is cast in the bottom of the bowl.
 
Ok, yeah there are numbers there it will take some work before I can read them.Looks like maybe DTLX 16 or 18. That helps alot.
 
Buster is correct, a early styled B uses a DLTX-34 carburetor.

A -16 is for a JD D

A -18 is for an unstyled JD A.

In my opinion, you don't want an A carburetor for a B unless it
has an engine that has been bored & stroked. Even then the
B carburetor works best with an A main fuel nozzle.
 
You won't find a kit for a 13 as that is just the cast # on bowl. If, in fact , you have a 34 , just have it done right and you will have all the carb you need. If it has a 13 bowl and is original then it's probably a late # 34 carb. If it is a 34 carb, the "34" should be cart in to body as apposed to the hard to read stamped in type. If stamped in , then probably not a 34. Post a pic of both sides and we can tell you what it is. My e-mail is open also , for ID and/or rebuild.
 
In my honest opinion there are times when things are best left up to the professionals. One stupid little thing that you or I might do on a carburator rebuild could cost us more headaches than it's worth. Let a pro rebuild that carb for ya.
Mike Shelby did the carb on my 60....fully satisfied pricewise & quality of work.

Mike Shelby
PopinJohn Co.
11 Upper Cherrytown
Kerhonkson, NY 12446
www.popinjohn.com
(845) 626 5870
 
Hey RandyB,here is a couple pics of my carb. The numbers are cast too poorly to be even close to reading, but I'm pretty sure its not #34. Its going to have to be done by looks. Thanks for your help.
a161084.jpg

a161085.jpg

a161086.jpg
 
Update on the carburetor, it seems this tractor once was an all fuel model. Although nothing remains of the all fuel system except the carb and manifold. Since I'm kind of new to JD's it was not so obvious to me as it may have been to others at a glance. I do however appreciate the help just the same.
 
Pull it and check for throttle plate/bore size. 1 11/16 " will be an "A" carb , 1 3/8 would be the 34 for "B" and 1 5/16 would be for unstyled "B" # 10 . Anyway about it I don't believe an early hand start "B" would have a # 13 bowl on it. Bowl probably been replaced with newer one at some time. I have never seen a # 18 with molded in model pad like this one. Model 10,s have molded model pad and 34 has it also. I still say you have a 34 or 10, both for "B" but 10 has smaller bore, both could be hand start type choke like yours. What that is molded in for a number....I have no idea. Looks like an "8" but that would be a real early unstyled "A" brass body carb with stamped in number and that's not what you have here. Get bore size and post back.
 
Bob: I can assure you to use only the correct 13 on your tractor. The all fuel model has a by pass and allows the tractor to idle without a shutdown....they used this will all fuel to prevent the need for shut down on lower grade fuel...there should be plenty of parts out there....I do know a friend had a 38 B never could get it to calibrate...I got the right carb or him and it ran like a champ...the jetting is the issue...vacumn pull to carb to jetting all has to be calibrated or factory....I would think there should be more of the older carbs out there....good luck.... Chuck
 
I can assure you, there is NO model 13 carb for a JD 2 cyl horizontal engine. And there are thousands of all fuel carbs out there running just perfect on gas only. They only made two gas carbs...late "A" # 71 and late "B" # 67 . What he has in an "all fuel " carb. Just don't know which one by outside pics only. ID pad is no help on this one and I don't think the 13 bowl is original to this carb either.
 
I know this carb has problems just as it sits know. Since I'm not restoring the tractor, in your opinion, what is more practical and cost effective to get a standard gas carb but then is the manifold a problem, or try to salvage what I have.Ive worked on marvel carbs before but not an all fuel models and my biggest worry is getting whatever I do right the first time as cost is a factor.
 
Randy,the throttle bore size measures 1 5/16 so maybe that gives us a clearer idea of what it probably is.
 
Your carb is probably easily re-buildable. That's the way I would go. The only parts that are different between the gas only and all fuel carbs are the nozzle and the number/location of the pin ports in bore by throttle plate , and they have the little screw type economizer valve. All carbs from '47 on back have this and are considered "all fuel" carbs. Trust me, your tractor will operate just fine on gas with an all fuel carb. It wasn't about how they will or will not run correctly...it was all about fuel economy back then. That being said...it must be rebuilt correctly...drilled out passages , tight throttle shaft/bushings / throttle plate , bushing inner ends ground to fit bore curvature perfectly , adjusting needles replaced if grooves worn in the ends, correct float level , open vent passages , and correct procedure for adjusting idle/load needles. Not many , other than reputable builders, ever get all this correct. I'm trying not to make this an advertisement and offered my e-mail to no avail , so here is my card and would be glad to build you a perfect carb from yours.Please call my number before deciding. RB
a161175.jpg
 
If it is 1 5/16, then it is a DLTX 10 , which is correct for all unstyled "B" and some early styled "B". The bowl is off a later carb but makes no difference. Read my other post below. I would just re-build yours or have it re-built. A later 34 0r 67 "B" carb will be slightly larger bore but you would never know the diff. unless put on a dyno. You have the correct carb for your tractor if it is a very early styled hand start "B".
 
Bob, Every John Deere built before the steel frame models of 1947-1948 were All-Fuel tractors. After that gas became an option. However, the D and G remained All-Fuel until the end of production in 1953.
 

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