1967 4020 loader questions/mounts

grayson20 · May 26, 2017

So a few months ago I purchased a 1967 jd 4020. The other day I bought an allied 695 loader in an action. I gave what I thought was a good price for it. (2k). It has a factory grapple on it and the loader/pins etc were all in good shape. It came with 4020 mounts. After reading up on it, it seems like its a little big (recommended 75-150hp) I haven't used it yet or even mounted it on my tractor. So my questions are this:

Is anyone familiar with this loader?

Is it too big for my tractor? (used mainly for picking up brush on my flooded creek acres, and the occasional hay bale and bucket of dirt)

What are the bolt sizes needed for the JD 4020 frame to install mounts?

Thanks to any and all for the advice in advance!!!!!!

tim s · May 26, 2017

It's only going to be too big if you use it for Big lifts,,the 4020 side frames are drilled for 5/8" carriage bolts the length will be determined by the thickness of the loader frame,, use as many bolts as you can, if you do have front end failures you can mount a 4430 front axle under it. be sure your valve is set up for a closed system.

grayson20 · May 26, 2017

(quoted from post at 09:54:10 05/26/17) It's only going to be too big if you use it for Big lifts,,the 4020 side frames are drilled for 5/8" carriage bolts the length will be determined by the thickness of the loader frame,, use as many bolts as you can, if you do have front end failures you can mount a 4430 front axle under it. be sure your valve is set up for a closed system.

Great, sounds good. The brackets that came with it include two pieces that run to the back axle. not sure exactly how they fasten? do I need u bolts or? Thanks for the help!

Mike M · May 26, 2017

Don't use regular carriage bolts either. Get some high grade ones from a REAL nut and bolt place.

IowaJohn · May 26, 2017

The 695 should be a great match for your 4020. As far as the axle brackets you'll just have to play to find the right spot. I have both fenders and a roll bar on the 4020 so I ended up cutting out the bracket a little to get around the bearing in the outside of the axle.I've got a 795 that I use on a 4020 or a 4430. The salesman was afraid the 695 wouldn't be heavy enough for the 4430 but not over burden the 4020. He was right I've been swapping them back and forth for 15 years. I don't have any fluid in the 4020 rears just 3 140lb weights on each side. I like the 795 much better than the wl-40 westendorf I had.

David G · May 27, 2017

4020's have real weak front end, put 4430 kit from Abilene under it if you want it to stand up.

cjd12000 · May 27, 2017

Agree I used gaurd rail/bridge bolts. No stretch after 5 years.

grayson20 · May 28, 2017

Sounds good guys thanks everyone for the advice....sounds like I am headed in right direction!!!!

JMS/.MN · May 29, 2017

Very good idea to have a frame that goes back to the rear axle. My 3020 had engine mounting bolt issues- only 2 at the rear, not 4 like the 4020, and those bolts break when the loader hangs only on the side frames. They can be tapped bigger one time, then it"s block replacement time. Here"s the modification I made many years ago- haven"t had a problem since.

grayson20 · May 30, 2017

My mounts came with pieces that look almost exactly identical. my frount from mounts have a total of 9 bots per side...5 carriage head bolts and 4 5/8 bolts up by the fuel tank....where do you get the u bolts to mount those to the back axle? do those pieces restrict your access to anything?

grayson20 · May 31, 2017

A little off subject but can anyone tell me what gpm requirement I will need in a 3 spool valve?

1967 4020 loader questions/mounts

grayson20

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tim s

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Mike M

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IowaJohn

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David G

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cjd12000

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JMS/.MN

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grayson20

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