51 B Starting Procedure?

I understand every tractor is unique and may start slightly different than others. That being said, how do you start yours? It seems as if mine is extremely picky. I get hesitant to choke it for too long because it seems to flood fairly easy. Although it does certainly seem to require a good choke to start at all. It is on a 12V system, and the starter only seems to roll the engine 3-4 revs before the overrunning clutch kicks in (likely a bendix problem I have yet to get to). This certainly makes it more challenging as it doesn't continuously run the engine long enough to throw off the choke.

Pull the starter and get it fixed.

I think you better have your carburetor looked over good, and while it's off do a good tune up, i.e. points, plugs, wires etc. My B (which is a 1950) turns over maybe twice when starting cold with a quick tug on the choke rod, pull it all the way out and when it catches shove it back in. If very cold it will stumble until warm so have to leave choked about 1/4. After it gets decently warm its fine. When its very warm out (like it is now) very little choke is required, and on a restart in any weather it requires a little pull on the choke rod regardless. The choke, on mine at least, will not automatically go off. You have to manually open it. Having said all that, 3-4 revs of the engine should be more than enough for it to catch, so it sounds like you may have other problems. Definitely get your starter fixed, since it might help if it whirls the engine over faster.
Hope this helps,

Mac

Does your tractor have a Magneto or a Dist. ??

I had one of those once with a mag. that the 12 volt turned it over so fast the mag was firing on advanced timing because the impulse kicked out. It could kick back and break the drives.

1/2 Throttle, Choked and ready to unchoke when it fires. Double check your plugs and points.

all of the 2cylinders I've ever owned & own now NONE of them require much throttle.
My 60 you don't choke till after it fires. The other 9 I choke with just the throttle
cracked open. From my tractors & experience most won't fire @ 1/2 throttle, but they
do like the choke even when they are warm.

Well, I rebuild carbs for 2 cyl and my test tractor is a '50 "B" and it doesn't matter if it's a carb off a B, A or G or even H. It requires full choke and 1/3 throttle and as soon as it rolls around 2 times...choke all the way off. In order to pull fuel from the idle circuit, it must travel a total of 5-6" to get to carb throat , and to pull fuel from load nozzle at crank speed, it needs choke shut to get a gulp to fire. And this is even when warm. Luckily I get to see/hear how a perfect carb acts and how tractor reacts also. This testing has dispelled a lot of carb/tractor rumors also.

Every tractor I own requires choking to start! Even the diesel! Most of the time this includes even if they're warm.

I have two 51 B's & they behave about as identical as any can. Doesn't matter if they're hot or cold. Winter or summer. As to throttle settings... My preference is move the speed control lever forward only far enough to get the carb's throttle plate to the wide open position. Proper governor adjustments will make this happen very little forward from the dead slow idle position. When it starts, the governor will take over & keep the speed down instead of roaring to a high speed before lubrication is freely flowing everyplace.

One B has a Delco distributor, the other a Wico XH mag. Anything but dead slow idle, full choke & step on the starter. Usually compression #3 gives the first putt. Push the choke back in 2/3 unless it's already warm in which case the choke goes in all the way.

My tractors rarely start without choke even if they're warmed up unless I happen to stall 'em in an overload situation. I even have a hand crank Orange beast from 1939 with a Fairbanks RV4 mag. He acts the same way. No choke means no start!

3020 Gas is the same way, no choke usually means no start and even once running, no choke at all for at least a few minutes means it's gonna die! Yes it has the dreaded MS carb.

The cranking engine on the 70D is the only one that always gets started with the throttle at the dead slow idle setting. Even he's not likely to start without at least a quick slap of the choke.

I remember as a kid the owner of our local Deere dealership was not shy about telling any who would listen "any gas powered farm tractor that starts cold without using the choke is wasting gas and needs the carb adjusted or fixed!"

My couple o coppers on the subject.

Seems as though you're trying to diagnose starting issues on a tractor that is in poor mechanical condition. I would suppose the starting could vary...since your starter is not working properly and you may have other issues. My recommendation would be to correct the mechanical and electrical issues then go to the carburetor for a rebuild. Everything has to be in mechanically sound condition to properly analyze your engine. Valve adjustment/compression is an issue. Start bringing it up to shape and I think you will see difference results.

Thanks for all the comments. This tractor has a WICO C mag on it. I have set valve tappet clearance, compression and leak tested both cylinders. Carb has been rebuilt, passages drilled out with proper aircraft drill bits. I replaced points/condenser/magneto cap as well. I feel as if I have covered most of the mechanical aspects outside of getting into the internal engine components. I need to get to the starter, no doubt about it. It just seems finicky, so I thought I would ask for some input.

This is an interesting point. It is a WICO C mag tractor. The next time I am starting it, I will pay close attention to if I can hear the snapping of the impulse.

If you are planning to keep it 12V I'd get a Delco dist. and put on it.

Get rid of the wico c and get you a wico X or distributor.....