50 clutch thickness?

Olliejunkie

Well-known Member
Pulled the clutch down tonight. Looks like it was 180 off but arrows don't line up perfect the other way. I need to replace at least one disc. Should I just put all new in? Anyone know the specs on them? Should have a manual soon.
 
there are two marks...a crows foot indication....might need to buff off to see....replace all the lining and the double lining is critical...very expensive at Deere but after factory linings aren't worthwhile "in my opinion" Go ahead and remove pulley and grease the bearing...
 
(quoted from post at 04:24:27 05/12/17) there are two marks...a crows foot indication....might need to buff off to see....replace all the lining and the double lining is critical...very expensive at Deere but after factory linings aren't worthwhile "in my opinion" Go ahead and remove pulley and grease the bearing...
That's my next step is getting the pulley off and inspecting it. My bolts are pretty bad. I'm hoping new discs and spacer will get me on better threads. Tractor won't see much use so I'm trying not to put a bunch of money in it although I probably will have to. Thanks for the help. I have a manual coming thanks to another yter for the nice deal.
 
(quoted from post at 04:24:27 05/12/17) there are two marks...a crows foot indication....might need to buff off to see....replace all the lining and the double lining is critical...very expensive at Deere but after factory linings aren't worthwhile "in my opinion" Go ahead and remove pulley and grease the bearing...
I have the pulley off. Curious what makes the aftermarket discs bad? I don't plan on using it much and don't want to spend a bunch of cash as I have several projects. Also is there supposed to be a big seal on the pulley and one on the bearing. My book is on the way.
 
Pack the pulley bearing with high temperature grease. There is nothing wrong with after
market disc's. Deere doesn't make the ones they sell,they just mark up some aftermarkets.
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:26 05/13/17) Pack the pulley bearing with high temperature grease. There is nothing wrong with after
market disc's. Deere doesn't make the ones they sell,they just mark up some aftermarkets.
Can I drive the bearing out from back side or just pack grease around it? Are new seals available? So far I haven't found them.
 
No seals in the belt pulley. Bearing can be driven out from the back. There is a metal conical shaped retainer on the outside and a curved washer on the backside of the bearing. They should come out fairly easy and be reused if not damaged. I put the curved washer in as to leave the most space between it and the center of the bearing to keep it from rubbing and give more room for grease pocket. I remember reading in one of the books about if you hold the single clutch facings by one edge and try and wave it up and down it should not flex. If they do they are too thin and need replaced. Look them over good for cracks as you don't want one to break as then the clutch will lock up and you can't stop ! The center plate with 2 facings if glued type you want to see if they are still tight and not going to fall off plate. If you have the pulley off the tractor I'd also remove the 3 pins from the clutch dogs and remove the toggles and clean and repack them with grease too. Also remove the 3 adjusting bolts and clean them up and the holes they go thru. This will all help get a better working clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 06:37:11 05/14/17) No seals in the belt pulley. Bearing can be driven out from the back. There is a metal conical shaped retainer on the outside and a curved washer on the backside of the bearing. They should come out fairly easy and be reused if not damaged. I put the curved washer in as to leave the most space between it and the center of the bearing to keep it from rubbing and give more room for grease pocket. I remember reading in one of the books about if you hold the single clutch facings by one edge and try and wave it up and down it should not flex. If they do they are too thin and need replaced. Look them over good for cracks as you don't want one to break as then the clutch will lock up and you can't stop ! The center plate with 2 facings if glued type you want to see if they are still tight and not going to fall off plate. If you have the pulley off the tractor I'd also remove the 3 pins from the clutch dogs and remove the toggles and clean and repack them with grease too. Also remove the 3 adjusting bolts and clean them up and the holes they go thru. This will all help get a better working clutch.
Thank you all for the info. I ordered new bolts ,springs and discs. Will clean and grease everything. One disc was broke and the rest are pretty crusty. Sending the carb off tomorrow. I should attempt it but don't have much time right now. Next I need is a water pump. Anyone know of any kits. This 500 dollar tractor is getting expensive. It looks pretty good but was abused a little.
 

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