Jd 2510 engine troubles

Runningranch

New User
Hi all,
I just found this site, and love it! I just aquired a 55 acre parcel next to our 80. I needed a tractor and a buddy had a jd 2510 that he said had coolant in the oil that I could have for cheap if I wanted to fix it. He said he had a guy look at it and the guy said it was a head gasket. Question is when I get the head off, will it be obvious that the problem is the head gasket and is there anything else I should check on while I have the head off? The tractor has new tires and the pant looks good. There are no leaks of any kind so I think it could be a good tractor if I can get it going. I only have 12 acres of open ground to work, so I think this tractor should work fine for what I need.
Thanks for reading!
Chris
 
I would drain the oil out of the engine. Then let it sit with coolant in it an see if it comes out the oil-pan drain plug. A head-gasket causing a leak like that in a Deere Dubuque engine is rare. Cylinder-liner leaks much more common. Even more so if the engine still has original single-seal sleeves. New sleeves will have three seals per sleeve. It is an easy engine to work on and you can put new pistons, sleeves, oil pump, rod and main bearings in without removing the engine. Just have to make sure the two balancing shafts are tight. If not, the engine likely has to come out.
 
I agree with Tim. I work on a good many Deere tractors and have only once found water in the oil that was head related and it was a cracked head. Most likely a bad liner. You might try running it with strait water as antifreeze will leak where water won't. Dad had a 2520 that we ran for two summers with water because of antifreeze in the oil.You will like your 2510 when fixed,we have a 2510 diesel and a 2520. I also just bought a 2510 gas that we will be parting out soon. Tom
 
Most of the time it is only wishful thinking to blame the head gasket, on this style engine.
 
To trouble shoot do as JDEM says. Pull the oil pan first. Many times a radiator pressure tester will really help as you can pump a little (watch gauge) pressure in there to speed up the leak.
 
I pulled the oil drain plug tonite and there was antifreeze and really milky oil in there. I will be pulling the oil pan this weekend to check things out. If the crankshaft is covered in that milky oil, will I hurt anything by decreasing or just let it ride?
Thanks for the responses, I'm sure I will have some more questions as this project goes on!
Chris
 
Glad I found you guys. Need some help. I have a diesel 2510 202 cubic casting # t26933 and I am trying to replace the piston and liners the originals had no o ring in the grove. It looks like it sat in a gramment in the block. What do I need to replace it with so it will not leak. I can not find the original liners but after reading your post it sounds like y'all have found a better replacement.
 
(quoted from post at 10:21:48 05/05/17) What do I need to replace it with so it will not leak. I can not find the original liners but after reading your post it sounds like y'all have found a better replacement.

Welcome to YT
AR51902 liner is correct for block with casting #T26933
 
Finally got the head off of the engine today. The head gasket looked good, so I must have a sleeve problem. I tried pushing down on a piston but nothing moved. Any tips how to get the pistons to move so I can inspect the sleeves? I'm going to try and post some pics of the parts.
Chris
 
So,,do you have the oil pan off???,,the rod needs to be disconnected and pushed "Up" and out,,then the sleeve pushed or pulled up and out, and some times they come up hard...
 
If your trying to move a piston down to get a sleeve out,,and you don't have the pan off yet,,, this is probably not going to go well for you....Just saying...
 
Well, the sleeves are out. They had 3 baskets/o rings so the engine must have been rebuilt. The sleeves have almost no corrosion on the outsides. The round orange rings had a big gash in each and one was broke when the sleeve was removed. Some of the flat black o rings were cracked and broken. When I tried taking the flat ones off, they broke into little pieces and were very hard. The head is getting checked at the machine shop this week.
If the sleeves are in good shape, can they be reused? The inside of the sleeves are perfect.
Thanks
Chris
 
Of course you can reuse them. Those motors were built before the threw-it-away period...
In theory, your service manual will tell you the max allowable wear inside of the sleeve: If you cannot see wear on the top, you should be good. The most critical is that the outside is not rusted particularly where the seals are installed.
If all of this is in good shape, there is no reason to change it.
You still need to hone the sleeves and put new rings, then break in the tractor on a dyno with special break in oil.
 
Of course you can reuse them. Those motors were built before the threw-it-away period...
In theory, your service manual will tell you the max allowable wear inside of the sleeve: If you cannot see wear on the top, you should be good. The most critical is that the outside is not rusted particularly where the seals are installed.
If all of this is in good shape, there is no reason to change it.
You still need to hone the sleeves and put new rings, then break in the tractor on a dyno with special break in oil.
For ease of cold starting, it is important that you get your valves lapped to the head.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top