JD 60 with no spark

UncleCarl

Member
So here's what I'm thinking...this distributor is a Delco-Remy. (right?) So it would not have the coil inside as it's mounted out front of the distributor right? So if I don't have any spark, I should be able to replace the points/condenser and possibly the coil (plus wires/plugs) and not have to pull the distributor right? I have noticed this is different than the Wico magnetos, to I'm thinking since it's got an external coil, I should be okay by doing those measures and cleaning the distributor up. Hmm. Inputs? Thanks.
 
Hmmm....I know I uploaded this pic. anyway, here it is.
a159145.jpg
 
You should not have to pull the distributor. Clean everything up real good and also check for power to the coil from the ignition switch.

Rodney 8)
 
Okay thanks. I'm thinking the coil will
have to be replaced anyway. So if Turn
the ignition switch on I should have
something at the coil right away?
 
?<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]So here's what I'm thinking...this distributor is a Delco-Remy. (right?)[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>?

Correct.

?<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]So it would not have the coil inside as it's mounted out front of the distributor right?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>?

Correct.

?<font color="#6699ff">So if I don't have any spark, I should be able to replace the points/condenser and possibly the coil (plus wires/plugs) and not have to pull the distributor right?</i></b></font>?

Correct.

?<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Inputs?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>?

Presuming you have a gasoline or all fuel tractor, take a look at the [b:654c4848f0]Lamps and Wiring[/b:654c4848f0] diagram below.

a159184.jpg" width="650"


Note that current/power flows from the NEGATIVE battery terminal to the NEGATIVE terminal on the ammeter.

Note that current/power flows from the POSITIVE terminal on the ammeter to the BAT terminal on the ignition switch.

Note that current/power flows from the BAT terminal on the ignition switch to the IGN terminal on the ignition switch.

Note that current/power flows from the IGN terminal on the ignition switch to the input terminal on the ignition resistor.

Presuming there is current/power flowing as described above, then start by turning the ignition switch ON to the first position.

Using a test light, check for current/power at the input terminal on the ignition resistor.

a159185.jpg" width="650"


If there is no current/power at the input terminal, then check the IGN terminal, BAT terminal, both POSITIVE and NEGATIVE ammeter terminals, NEGATIVE terminal, and last the POSITIVE ground,

If there is current/power at the input terminal, then check for current/power at the output terminal on the ignition resistor.

a159186.jpg" width="650"


If there is no current/power at the output terminal, then replace the ignition resistor.

If there is current/power at the output terminal, then check for current/power at the NEGATIVE terminal on the coil.

a159187.jpg" width="650"


If there is no current/power at the NEGATIVE terminal, then repair/replace the green lead wire connections.

If there is current/power at the NEGATIVE terminal, then check for current/power at the POSITIVE terminal on the coil.

a159190.jpg"


If there is no current/power at the POSITIVE terminal on the coil, then replace the coil.

If there is current/power at the POSITIVE terminal on the coil, then check for current/power at the breaker plate to housing screw on the distributor.

a159191.jpg" width="650"


If there is no current/power at the breaker plate to housing screw on the distributor, then repair/replace the black lead wire connections.

If there is current/power at the breaker plate to housing screw on the distributor, then check for current/power at the breaker plate to housing screw retainer inside the distributor.

a159192.jpg" width="650"


If there is no current/power at breaker plate to housing screw retainer inside the distributor, then repair/replace the breaker plate to housing gasket.

If there is current/power at breaker plate to housing screw retainer inside the distributor, then check for current/power at the breaker points.

a159193.jpg" width="650"


The following is one method of checking for spark from the distributor.

Presuming that the gap has already been set on the breaker points, you might consider cranking the engine with the distributor cap off and check for spark at the points.

Replace the rotor and distributor cap.

<font color="#ff0000">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]CAUTION:[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font> Make sure the fuel is turned OFF and/or drain the carburetor and/or cover the open spark plug holes.

Remove the spark plugs and attach the plug wires.

Lay the each spark plug either on the block or frame.

Crank the engine and check for spark at each spark plug.

If there is still no spark, then replace either the plug, plug wire, distributor cap, or rotor.

Hope this helps.
 
Dear Uncle Carl, Mr. Howell is to be complimented for his fine pictures. However, the tests from the positive side of the coil, to the distributor terminal, to the points will only light the test light with the points OPEN. Moreover, the 60 like the A did not come from the factory with a ballast resistor. Something could have been added later. If you should need a coil, the ones for the A and 60 without a resistor are different than a 620 or 630 with a resistor.
 
Well I may have goofed then. I bought a new coil from the local NAPA store. I'm pretty sure I told him it had an internal resistor. Before I gave it a total ignition overhaul, I had power in ALL THE RIGHT places even down to the points. I could even turn the switch on and open the points by hand,and see spark between the contacts. But I never could get it to fire or run. So I just assumed the best bet is to totally give it a tune up. Everything is replaced. Coil, condenser, battery, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap. I'm just waiting on a dust cap as they sent the wrong one. So is the coil I bought with the internal resistor the problem? My test light lights up on the inbound terminal to the coil, but nothing outbound, to the distributor or at the points. Thoughts?
 
That looks pretty rusty in their, water has run down in to the lower section of the distributor as well. Go one step further and pull the plate under the points and check the condition of the advance weights/springs.
 
Well that's a problem Jo Bird. As much
as I tried I could only get one of three
screws out. I actually had to also use
an impact driver and hammer to lossen the
screw holding the condenser strap.
Thoughts? Also please see my comment
below on the coil I got. Thx.
 

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