4020 restoration project

MRogersII

Member
I have started working on a 4020 restore. 1st question, Having pulled the sheet metal off, what is the best way to remove dents and restore lines? Can I just turn the hood upside down on a wooden benchtop and knock the dents back out with a smooth faced hammer? Or, is this likely to make it worse? Didn't really want to fill it full of body filler if that could be avoided.
Thank you
Michael.
 
Take it to a body shop, they will know how to do it, pounding dents out from the back side stretches the metal and makes it worse.
 
Sometimes it better to have a pro do at least the hood.If you don't do a good job better to leave it original.Restoration has many different meanings and many times it is cheaper to buy one that is done right.
 
Thank you all for your counsel. I do appreciate it. I was hoping for something along the lines of "s-u-u-u-r-r-r-e you can, no problem". Didn't get that at all.

Well....I went to Harbor Freight and bought a hammer and dolly set (and yes, I did say Harbor Freight, be nice). I have to at least give it an opportunity to work.

and although I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...I did watch a YouTube video....

Thanks again

Michael
 
It all depends on what you want to end up with,, you may even decide that your are a body shop wizard,,,but most of us already know how this is gonna turn out,,one big dent will turn into a bunch of smaller ones...remember the hood is the primary view of the whole job..I job my hoods out to a body shop..and have an automotive finish on the paint job..There is a lot of work to a good Restoration,,and the more effort put into it the better it turns out...learn and enjoy as you go,,and show us some pictures as you go...
 
(quoted from post at 22:28:57 04/18/17) It all depends on what you want to end up with,, you may even decide that your are a body shop wizard,,,but most of us already know how this is gonna turn out,,one big dent will turn into a bunch of smaller ones...remember the hood is the primary view of the whole job..I job my hoods out to a body shop..and have an automotive finish on the paint job..There is a lot of work to a good Restoration,,and the more effort put into it the better it turns out...learn and enjoy as you go,,and show us some pictures as you go...

Will do.
 
47914.jpg

Still figuring out the file uploader.
 
There is a dolly made to work the front of those hoods,, some one on here will give you the name of the company,, I saw them in the Green Magazine..
 
I believe I saw it the other day but it was $120
I thought that was kind of steep. I'd rather find someone who had one and pay them to use it.
 
Sundahls Restoration 507-334-8966 makes a special die for the front of hood. He also has a screen tool that works excellent Looking at your hood it will be a challenge.If the hood and fenders are done nicely the rest of the tractor is not as tough.It will be a labor of love and personal enjoyment as the early 4020s and 5020s are not as popular as a 6030 or later side counsel tractors. I am seeing lots of nice 2cyl.collections being liquidated as many of the enthusiasts are getting up in years and moving on.Right now the NewGen 20 series is steady or down some but 30/40 series open stations are catching on.Good Luck with your project and there are many sharp people on here that will give good advice.Tim S.and Tx Jim are two of the best on here.They should be Mr.Thinker in Green Magazine but are too nice!
 
(quoted from post at 00:28:02 04/19/17) Sundahls Restoration 507-334-8966 makes a special die for the front of hood. He also has a screen tool that works excellent Looking at your hood it will be a challenge.If the hood and fenders are done nicely the rest of the tractor is not as tough.It will be a labor of love and personal enjoyment as the early 4020s and 5020s are not as popular as a 6030 or later side counsel tractors. I am seeing lots of nice 2cyl.collections being liquidated as many of the enthusiasts are getting up in years and moving on.Right now the NewGen 20 series is steady or down some but 30/40 series open stations are catching on.Good Luck with your project and there are many sharp people on here that will give good advice.Tim S.and Tx Jim are two of the best on here.They should be Mr.Thinker in Green Magazine but are too nice!

Thank you, Sir. The 6030 is my favorite but they bring too many dollars. I was able to pick up a good 4020 and 5020 set for less than I would have had in the single 6030. That was good enough for me. The 5020 is something of an oddball because someone has installed a turbo and plumbing from a 6030. I've pretty much decided to leave the turbo on and just restore it as is. Both tractors start and run but the 5020 needs more work so I'm starting on the 4020 first. I guess I could send the hood to someone but I would really like to do it myself. I'll let you guys know as things progress. Thanks again for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. Michael
 
I have one would be glad to send it to you to use and you could send it back when done.You can email me or call 515-290-4336 .I haven't used it much and think it in my tool box if it got returned.
 

I'm wondering what would be the best way to gauge engine wear/injection pump condition. Oil pressure? I bought the tractor to restore but if I needed to go into the block, now would be the best time. I ran it about 4 hrs on a 15' batwing when I bought it and it seemed to run fine, very little smoke other than pulling steep ground. Starts reasonably well. Considerable difference in hp between it and the 4430 I normally use but that's not quite apples-to-apples.
 
(quoted from post at 01:19:56 04/25/17)
More good news. Only 4 of the exhaust manifold bolts broke off. :shock:

I believe this thread is going to have value after all. I am accumulating a fair-sized list of things NOT to do when restoring a JD. I can offer a bonus section that can be titled "Don't do it this way".
 
I smack the heads of the manifold bolts a few times before I try to loosen them,,some times it helps...then "wiggle" them back and forth a bit if they do start to come loose...
 

Can someone tell me what this is? It has a metal line coming up out of the top that is cut off and pinched closed. I didn't want to leave it that way, but wasn't sure what it was.
Thanks in advance.
Michael
48418.jpg
 
It's a crank case vacuum pump, they never really mounted to much and were deleted in the console models and a lot of them were plugged off like yours, I have deleted them, and capped them but you need to plug the oil supply port off when you do...
 
(quoted from post at 01:38:32 05/01/17) It's a crank case vacuum pump, they never really mounted to much and were deleted in the console models and a lot of them were plugged off like yours, I have deleted them, and capped them but you need to plug the oil supply port off when you do...

Where is this "oil supply port"? Are talking about the line coming out of the top? Can I remove the crimped line and just install an NPT plug?
 

Can someone confirm for me that it is fine for me to simply remove the line coming out of the top and cap it off?
Thank you.
Michael
 
I can tell you it is not. This is the aspirator line suking fresh and clean air from the manifold and creating a little pressure in the crankase. As those tractors wore out, the pump is indeed less and less needed.

i dont' know exactly where is the oil plug, but I guess you have to remove the pump shaft to find it.
 
(quoted from post at 18:14:56 05/02/17)
(quoted from post at 14:32:26 05/02/17) I see. Can someone direct me to a diagram that shows how it should be connected?

Did everybody hang-up all at once?

No diagram, but I've got an under-200k 4020 in the barn right now, trying to get the buttugly ol' darlin' running again after sitting since 2001. To my knowledge this vacuum pump thingy has never been fiddled with, so I can get you some pictures of where that pinched off line goes to, but it'll be this afternoon/evening before I'm back around computer to post 'em.
 
OOOOoooo -Getting that curve and side to look right will be a chore! Just take your time -go slow with a smaller hammer and block -apply some heat -that will help!
 

Okay MR. My knowledge must be faulty. The thing is capped off. I know not where it goes.

(Now we'll see if I know how to get a pic on a post in here....)

20170503_135026.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 00:11:28 05/04/17)
Okay MR. My knowledge must be faulty. The thing is capped off. I know not where it goes.

(Now we'll see if I know how to get a pic on a post in here....)

20170503_135026.jpg

...and thank you, Sir, for taking the time to check on it and post.
Michael
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top