1010 Ignition Switch Replacement Kit: What is it? Needed?

Mnethercutt · May 2, 2017

Ok so to sum it up I have basically 2 tractors 1 good tractor and a parts tractor. 1 tractor had the original 1010 Key switch, positive ground. Other was using a new switch and was negative ground. BOTH of them had this thing on it. But it ain't in the original wiring diagram. Right now i've got the good tractor wired with the new switch, positive ground, using the original wiring diagram from the service manual. Tractor runs fine (minus battery not charging). Do I need to have this thing on there? Also could that effect the battery charging? Thanks

Hay maker2 · May 2, 2017

I assume this thing that you are referring to is the external ballast, item #6?

The ballast is used to knock the 12VDC down to 6VDC as most likely the coil is a 6 volt coil. If you have a 12 volt coil then you do not need this.

The original key switch most likely had a resistor built on to it and it was defective so the external ballast replaced that.

The reason they used the resistor / ballast and a 6 volt coil on a tractor with a 12 volt system is to provide a stronger spark when starting. When cranking the engine it would provide a straight 12 volts to the coil, once the tractor was running and the key back into "RUN" it only provided 6 volts to the coil as it was being knocked down with the resistor or ballast.

JDEM · May 3, 2017

No effect on battery charging. It was an update from Deere. The kit moved the
ignition ballast resistor from the ignition switch to a remote external mount.

The need for the resistor depends on the resistance on the coil primaries IF you still
have points. If you have a breakerless kit like a Pertronix installed - you can
eliminate the resistor. I put a kit on my 1960 1010 abut 10 year ago and it is one of
the best improvements I made on it.

John T · May 3, 2017

If you still have a 6 volt coil YES you need that current limiting voltage dropping (12 to 6) ignition ballast resistor or else the coil will overheat and the points will burn prematurely (can still run okay until such happens). Looks like it replaced an onboard switch or resistive wire link with a standard stand alone bathtub style ballast which I prefer anyway.

As far as charging, have you tried to polarize the generator ??? It can charge at either + or - ground provided its correctly polarized. That ignition ballast has nothing to do with charging.

Below I linked my charging troubleshooting procedure.

John T
John Ts Charging Troubleshooting

Mnethercutt · May 4, 2017

Thanks guysk, i'll definently put that back on. I didn't realize it had a 6 volt coil but I've definently been overheating it. I could feel the coil getting really hot but I thought maybe it was normal. John I've done the full checklist there. New VR, polarized, tested Gen at a service place and it was good, rewired whole thing. ONly thing left is to get new battery cables so i'll try that I guess

1010 Ignition Switch Replacement Kit: What is it? Needed?

Mnethercutt

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Hay maker2

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JDEM

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John T

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Mnethercutt

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