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John Deere 4010 PTO

I

IAtractorKid

Member
Hey guys! So a friend has asked me if I
would work on his 4010 diesel. Told him I
needed to do some more research before I
said yes or no...that being said all I know
right now is that the PTO does not work and
he bought it that way. He is under the
impression it needs split to replace a
broken roll pin. After some research it
seems that is a likely scenario...

So, how would you diagnose this before
splitting?

It looks like if it does need split, it is
at the front of the transmission, not the
rear of the engine. How difficult of a
split is this, and how difficult is the
repair? From what I've read the parts
required are cheap. I'm an IH guy so I am
curious if I can work my way through this
with some help from you, or if a manual is
a must?

Thank you for the insight!!
 
It's been 30 years since we did ours but if my memory is any good the back stub turned "loose" or not engaged to the rest of the output shaft inside. We did not need a book and our problem was the small pin. The platform cover comes off and the bell housing for the clutch stays mounted to the engine. I remember dad being nervous about the job but it went pretty easy for a couple of amateur mechanics and was done in a short afternoon. Tim S can give you the full procedure when he comes along.
 
I'm in the house for the next couple days recovering from surgery or I would go down to our 4010 and look under the platform cover to refresh my memory as to each step in the process. Like I said before the job went pretty smooth including the split. The worst job I had on the 4010 was to drop the WFE to access the steering assembly to change out the O rings. Probably because I had to do it myself. Good thing my hernia did not come years earlier than what it did.
 
The first thing to try is pulling the stub shaft off the rear ans sticking a Dime to the middle with sticky grease and reinstalling it,, I have seen this make them work for a long time,, what normally happens is the stub shaft works loose then the shift pin that goes up through the center of the shaft pulses enough to bend the shift pin, letting it slip enough to disengage the shift collar,, the dime on the stub shaft lets the shift pin go in a bit farther to make the shift..if that don't work a split between the clutch housing and the trans case is needed the parts in question is in the front,, I make a deal that will lock them in 540 and do away with the 1,000 RPM option and it makes a permenate fix..
 
Thanks I will give that a try when he brings the tractor over. He wants all the fluids changed and says he can't get it started unless it's pulled. Guessing the batteries and starter need checked. Is that going to be a 24v system?
 
Many were switched over to 12V. Check to see if it has a generator (24V) or if it has an alternator (12V). I don't think anybody would cheap out by putting on a used 12V generator but you can always check the tag.
 

I agree with Tim on changing to 540 only. Back when I changed them to 540 only I removed 1000 rpm drive gear & shimmed up with a bush & washers. On placing dime to attempt to push shift rod further forward I was poorer than Tim so I used a penny instead of a dime.
 
Roll pin is cheap, may need a couple gaskets also. You will have to split at rear of transmission not at bellhousing. To get it to come apart you will also have to take floor pan off and top transmission cover to access some small bolts holding the two housings together. Good luck keeping those pto stub shaft bolts tight in the back!
 

Part that probably failed is not a ""roll pin"" but a headed pin(key 32) held in place with a very small cotter key that is 0.063" X 0.984"

48502.jpg
48503.jpg


As i previously stated I'll suggest to change pto to 540 rpm only and call it done
 

Yeh.....the two shifter pins the guys are telling about are rather soft...more like six-penny nails with a cotter-pin hole and not a hardened 'pin'.

The PTO system on a 4020 is greatly 'improved' over the 4010 mechanism. Although with proper use the 4010/3010 PTO will work fine....just don't let the stub shaft bolts get loose.

A few years before I bought my particular 4010 I had to split it and replace the pins because of the 'loose shaft' thing. I had never heard about the coin under the shaft trick...my solution being to split the tractor and fix it...then 'Loc-Tite' the stub shaft bolts so they are unlikely to work loose. More or less making it a 540 rpm only system.
 
We have a locking tab that runs between two bolts therefore the stub has two tabs. We created our mess because we were in a hurry when going from 1000 RPM to run a Cyclo planter pump to 540 to cut hay. We wanted to change the bolts which we did but left the tabs with the 1000 RPM stub because again we were in a hurry. Our 4010 has done quite a bit of heavy PTO work over the years and it mystifies me that people tear off the stub with any degree of frequency.
 
(quoted from post at 07:07:07 05/03/17) We have a locking tab that runs between two bolts therefore the stub has two tabs. We created our mess because we were in a hurry when going from 1000 RPM to run a Cyclo planter pump to 540 to cut hay. We wanted to change the bolts which we did but left the tabs with the 1000 RPM stub because again we were in a hurry. Our 4010 has done quite a bit of heavy PTO work over the years and it mystifies me that people tear off the stub with any degree of frequency.
Click to expand...

Don't have to tear-off the stub shaft to ruin the internal shift pins...just let the bolts get loose enough that the mechanism tries for both speeds at once. I always guessed these pins were designed soft so they would bend rather than mess up the shift collars.
 
It is a weak point that's for sure, and the Dime trick will only get you by for a while, and won't work at all if the pin is broken. another thing to think about if they come loose much is to replace the dowel pins,,and I have drilled and tapped bad threads out to 7/16" thread and use a Allen head machine bolt, because there is not enough room for the larger hex head..
 
The only PTO work our 4010-D did was run our #30 pull type combine over 40 acres of oats every year. 4010 was the only live PTO tractor we had and Dad wanted to use it on the combine. Grade 8 capscrews, lock washers and red LockTight and still every wagon load of oats the four capscrews would need about one-two flats of the hex tightening. The last year we farmed, landlord was selling the farm, Dad hooked the 6 ft Brillion bush hog to the 4010 to mow some weeds around the place, road banks, etc. Same grade 8 hardware and Locktight. Dad's going down a grass waterway, 3-4 foot tall grass in 4th or 5th gear, looks behind him and the mower isn't mowing anymore! Backs up and the blade shaft had twisted off flush with the oil seal. He rebuilds the mower gearbox, and mowing weeds again, and the PTO trys to shift into 1000rpm! He's done mowing now except if the 7 HP Cub Cadet could mow it. I wouldn't run the 4010 on PTO work. I would engage the PTO when doing drawbar work to get that stupid lever up out of my way getting on&off. I assumed Dad wanted Grandkids someday!

Tim's permanent 540 change would have fixed our problem except for the stub shaft coming loose.
 
I would tell anybody here that has a 3010 or 4010 that the lock tabs worked well as long as they are used. This is something the local JD dealer was recommending way back in the early 1970's. Our 4010 ran an IH 50 forage harvester in heavy corn sometimes turning the corner while there was corn still in the throat. I recall baling many times with a JD 347 wire baler in 3.5 ton per acre first cutting (105 bales) and 4 ton per acre rye. I ran things fairly aggressively as a young man and I know I made that tractor snort and often turning a corner with the baler having its mouth full. We still have the 347 baler and 50 chopper here and would love to find a reason to put them to work again. Kind of sad some of the other stuff is gone such as the IH 40 blower and 61 wagons as they were the sounds of my youth.
 
That's what the damaged pin looks like. I had to hit the shaft with a mall to straighten it enough to remove it. Sounds brutal but that is what the service manual says to do. A couple of the gears have needle bearings. Use rubber bands around their shafts to reinstall them. Another tip from the manual. An exploded view from the parts book will be a superb help.
a159151.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 09:00:49 05/02/17) The first thing to try is pulling the stub shaft off the rear ans sticking a Dime to the middle with sticky grease and reinstalling it,, I have seen this make them work for a long time,, what normally happens is the stub shaft works loose then the shift pin that goes up through the center of the shaft pulses enough to bend the shift pin, letting it slip enough to disengage the shift collar,, the dime on the stub shaft lets the shift pin go in a bit farther to make the shift..if that don't work a split between the clutch housing and the trans case is needed the parts in question is in the front,, I make a deal that will lock them in 540 and do away with the 1,000 RPM option and it makes a permenate fix..
Click to expand...

Hi Tim,
I know this is an old post, do you still have the fix for the 4010 diesel to make it 540 permanently? If you do could you message me, I currently have my 4010 split and I'd like to use your fix before I put it back together.
Thank you sir,
Drae Setner
 
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