4250 Ready for Plowing

I got my 4250 ready for plowing with my 4200 3x18 rollover plow. It is a little wet here in Western WI today or I would be out trying it out.

First Picture overall tractor front and back, 30" center to inside wheel wall on back per the book.

Second Picture outside of wheel with fluid in tires and one weight.

Third Picture, inside of same wheel showing room to axle, again 30" center to inside wheel wall per the book.

Fourth Picture, Sway blocks set up for this plow per the book.

The plow is now on. I plan to submit more pictures once plowing.

I hope you enjoyed all the pictures.

Paul

Wouldn't it be better to move the rims to the outboard position and move the wheels in so there would be more support and less strain on the axles for a heavy job like plowing?

How come your 4250 has green trim on the lower cab? Did someone paint it that way. Thought they went to black on the last few 40 series and all 50 series.

Sharp looking long lean green machine! Ben

I was wondering about that. I had hoped someone would comment. I have not found anything in the operators manual on this topic.

This tractor was setup for 30" rows with axle duals. I assume they positioned the wheel on the outer rim-ridge to achieve 30". I didn't change the wheel position on the rim because I have run into wedge bolts that were rust welded into the wheel. It was quite an ordeal to get them out so I was reluctant to do this unless I was sure I needed to.

So, could I get more comments on this? Does experience say I should re-position the wheels on the rims. At the end of the day the tire still needs to be in the same place so it is a matter of how the forces are transferred to the axle and axle bearings. These are 86mm axles.

Thanks.

Paul

Oh, my plow is a 4200 3x18" rollover plow. I don't know the weight but at least it is NOT the 4x18" version that I know this tractor could pull as well. Paul

I have noticed this difference before, I thought it was a 50 series vs 55 series.

I looked through Tractorhouse pictures, 4240, 4250, and 4255. In the pictures I found the 40 series had the green around the door window, the 50 and 55 series were black. So, I see what you mean.

My tractor has been painted and it is only the 35th one made. So, it is hard for me to say, maybe paint, maybe the doors were replaced, maybe they were still using up parts from the 40 series. I'm just guessing. It certainly seems to be a 4250 in all other respects.

The parts book is not helping me a lot, maybe confusing me a little. They show replacement kits, most but not all seem the same for the 40, 50, and 55 series. I guess as a replacement part you might expect that. I have to work on my friends 4055 soon, I will compare doors.

Paul

The late 50 series and 55 series had different doors an door seals. Your early 50 would have more in common with the last year 40 series. The doors had several serial number changes over the years on the Sound Guard cabs.

As for the axle and rim position. The wedge placement makes zero difference in the force placed on the axle. The distance to the outside of the tire is what determines the force exerted on the axle at the bearing. Wide spaced duals would place a heavier axle load than you will with your plow.

JD Seller, thanks a bunch for the input. Actually it makes me feel better on both topics. Thanks again. Paul

Does your 4200 have the depth wheel? Ours does and you have to make certain the hitch will pick it completely up or there might not be enough ground clearance to flip the plow sometimes, it can get annoying. It is a heavy plow, you will want weight on the nose. Ours is only 3-18, I wish I had the 4th bottom that they took off. Ours is a shear bolt trip, what is yours? Also make sure the pivot is greased and the hydraulic outlet is moving it fast enough to swing past the middle and flip the valve.

I like your sly sense of wit.

IIRC, very early 50 series US made had green doors until and they went to black, maybe at same time the 50 series Mannheim built came out?

I have 4650 brochure, very early, and the tractor has green doors. I prefer them like this.
THis is a similar picture than my brochure:

I don't think you are going to have any issues with the cast center wheels set up like this. We ran all our tractors, when we plowed, in the same position you have. This includes a 4630, 4440, 4320, and a 4020. Those tractors had to have the wheels moved back in for 30 inch rows for the following spring and summer work anyway. I also remember my dad telling me about the issues they had with their 806 IH tractor for in furrow plowing. They had to set the inside cast wheel out as far as it would go so that they did not ruin the center of the casting which locked the wheel onto the axle. This was something that our IH dealer had us do, based upon the recommendations from their territory/block man back in the 1960's. That was also in the day before we switched from 36 inch to 30 inch rows. There are 3 or 4 of those 34 inch center rear wheel castings sitting in the back of a shed at the farm where the center was damaged on account of the rims being moved out so the casting was on the inner band of the rim. When this was switched, the problem did not occur again. Additionally, that plow is not too large of an implement behind that tractor either. I suspect you are not going to plow up several hundred acres with that set up either. Go with what you have now with confidence!

Hi Mike, thanks for your comments. I don't have a depth wheel. My 4200 is also 3x18". I just run coulters on the last bottom on each side.

I have run this plow on my 4320 in prior years and I had the same issue getting it high enough. I finally re-adjusted the lever linkages and solved the problem. Then I didn't have to worry when spinning the plow. My plow is the trip bottom type, then back up to reset. On my 4320 I had the big double starter weight and then 8 of the slab weights. Even then the front end was light but controllable.

The depth/draft control on the 4320 controlled depth very good. I am hoping the 4250 does as well. My 4320 needs a clutch and main pump plus I am just tired of the noisy Hinson cab. That is why I got the 4250.

I guess 4 bottoms would be interesting but it sure would be heavy. I feel I can plow pretty fast with the 3x18's especially with the rollover. I leave my head lands big enough to easily turn the tractor right back into the furrow wasting little time with the plow up. The 18" NU bottoms like to be run at 5-6 mph about 9" deep. My only concern is if I am in a field with rocks I run slower so as not to do damage when a bottom trips on such a heavy plow. Maybe I am overly cautious but that is just me. I have bent frogs on trip bottom plows when hitting a rock at a bad angle.

Best Regards.

Paul

Thanks fdt860. Nice picture. Paul

Thanks Mr. 2002Silverado for your comments. That helps a lot. As like most of us, you can tell I like to treat my equipment with respect and not run it in a way that will damage it or un-necessarily shorten it's life. I am pretty proud of this tractor and would not want to hurt it.

Thanks.

Paul

P.S. When are you going to update that Silverado. I love mine.

Paul,
You are right to be cautious with a trip bottom and rocks, too many times I've seen them seized from sitting and would not trip for anything, it would either stop the tractor or break the shear or bend the frog or all of them.

Ours was pretty worn when we got it, came out of south jersey which is sandy soil. Had 6 coulters, not one had a good bearing in it, took all of those off. Shears were worn to the frog, bottom and shin were worn completely through, landslides were razor sharp. Whoever took the 4th bottom off and didn't bother to move the long landslide to the 3rd bottom.