flywheel G coming off

seems all i do with this tractor is move it out of the way. two days ago was running it and lucky i saw the flywheel nearly off the spline shaft.
I will check the tightness later because of a bum shoulder.
can someone point me to a write up about maintenance of the flywheel. fifteen years ago i replaced the cork oil slinger and after probably 10 hours of actual use it leaks again.
Is there a aftermarket flywheel that would be easier to work with. I could not get the right message to get google to work.

A Quote from the late great Duane Larson. " Taper-loc flywheels are made and sold by Allen Machine Works, 100 Fairview Circle, Jonesborough, TN 37659. Phone 423-753-5738. The business is owned by George Range, who bought it from Chester Allen. Chester bought the concept years ago from a machine shop, and developed and improved the taper-loc concept. He sold the business a couple of years ago to George. If you have technical questions about the flywheels, ask for Dave - he is the fellow who makes the flywheels." Unquote.

I don/t think they ever made a taper lock for a G

Be sure and use the correct 2piece tool set for flywheel tightening as provided by Deere...If you do not have the tools, borrow or better yet buy a set on eBay, etc before you venture off into the unknown.

They do for a 70 gas which would be close to the same.

The only thing that would be the same is the fact that the are both flywheels

G flywheels did not crack with the frequency that some other models did, and I doubt a Taper Lock was available for them. It would pose somewhat of a safety hazard, as the large nut could grab someones clothing, as a G has no flywheel cover.

I suggest you clean the splines, study the flywheel for cracks, renew the bolts and put it back on with the JD wrench made for G Flywheels.

You may also consider this- it is not uncommon to see a G or sometimes late D, with the end of the crankshaft drilled and tapped, and a round piece of plate bolted to the end to keep the flywheel from sliding out. This goes in place of the starting ratchet bolted to the center of the flywheel as shipped from the factory. Remember, the flywheel controls crankshaft end play, and the G and D had a cluth to handle relatively high horsepower on the other end. The working of that clutch could ultimately cause the flywheel to move over on the splines. The late A, 60, 70 etc solved this with a nut on the end of the crank to help set and maintain endplay. The G still had just the friction of the crank splines.

If it were me, I'd reset the flywheel as above, and strongly consider the drill and tap method.

Kent is right