1946 John Deere "B -Hard to start!!!

Ok -here is what I am working with. I have a 1946 John Deere "B" with electric start and a distributor. I have actually had this tractor running four time now. First time it popped off and was running when I realized I did not have anything in the radiator -so I shut it down. Tried to restart after putting in anti freeze and water in the radiator and the old girl just did not want to start up. I put a battery charger on the battery and left it overnight.
Then on the next try it popped and ran for about 10 minutes until it ran out of gas! It sounded really good and sound -no extra thumps, squeals, scrapes or extra noises. I decided to pull the carburetor and clean it out. Achieved that and then after putting things back together -the "b" decided to run the battery down just cranking on it. So -another night on the battery charger. Next day I decided to remove the air intake pipe and let it breath while cranking. It did fire up but only briefly. Next step was to put in a new set of spark plugs -Autolite 386 -just like what it originally had when i got this tractor. After I decided to pull the plugs and put new ones in -it still seemed like it wanted to flood itself out. So---off came the air breather and a whole lot of water and sludge came pouring out.
Another day had passed and I did manage to get it running again -without the air breather hooked up and it was sounding really good---Then it quit because I forgot to turn the gas on!!!! I am now letting it sit overnight -again - with the charger hooked up.
So - tomorrow I an going to put in a new set of points -remove all the wiring connections and clean up all contacts to make sure there is a complete good connection.
I will take off the battery ground as well and make sure that is good -tight -and clean also! I am going to do a compression check as well. It seems to have compression but I need to know for sure!.
ANY SUGGESTIONS OUT THERE?????

All these two cylinders work on an very active low rpm governor. This presents a problem when charging cylinders in a cold start. If you don't keep your throttle back or only partially cracked as soon as the engine hits it will start to open up the governor giving a high air to fuel and then it will die. It takes a lot of fuel to charge these large cylinders and cold it even takes a larger amount. I've even held the throttle slightly cracked to make the engines start then let it work on it's on as it warms up. You're good on the type plugs you're using. good luck, all these tractors have their own characteristics.....

The sad part of all of this is -it not my tractor! So I am going to keep trying one thing at a time! I have two "A's and they both have magnetos and are fairly easy to get started. The hand start one is a bit cantankerous at times but only when I flood it,
So this "B" has me a bit perplexed but I'm stubborn enough to keep trying. Yesterday I put a brand new coils on it -the 6 volt system is all there and I made sure I had the correct coil for it. Today I will put in some new points and a rotor - go through the wiring and make all connections new again in hopes of getting a better spark. I'm also going to adjust the valves to make sure they are not so wide that I'm losing compression.
This tractor has sat in my friends yard for the past 20 or more years. I finally talked him into letting me get it running again. We have a couple parades in the area that would be really nice to take all three tractors to and run them!
The last time I had it running long enough to try to move it on its own -it would go into a forward gear just fine - but reverse was a problem. I could barely get the reverse gear to even grab. Lots of gear noise but it would just not engage. I then found the hi/lo was not fully engaging as well.
A combination of holding the hi/lo with my foot and moving the shifter into reverse and holding it with my left hand, then the clutch with my right hand and the tractor finally engaged and moved! THEN it died!!! Crap!!!
Got some work to do I guess! Have to solve the starting issue first!

The hi-lo has to be in lo to get reverse to engage as you know. It should have a pin that kicks it into low that is probably broken. Ron Mn

I would double check your starting procedure before throwing more parts at it.

Ask for advice on throttle and choke positions, should get good feedback.

My $.02, assuming you're replacing the condenser with the points, be sure to check it. Preferably at the place of purchase before leaving with it. The good/bad information is on the forum. About 45 years ago I was helping a real mechanic and he asked if I'd checked the condenser. I replied that it was a new one. He chewed me out for about 5 minutes without repeating himself. The general point was that he didn't want to know its age but whether it was good. He pounded that point through me and clenched it over. Actually it was rare to buy a bad condenser then; not so now!

Good luck!

Thank you and I have ways of checking the condenser. Afterall -it is only a capacitor! I agree on the new stuff not really being that reliable. So far -I have not replaced the points or done anything with the distributor. I'm fairly confident that if I can can remove and re-install all the ground points and electrical hookup points, that getting a good ground will do the trick! Points do not look that bad -I polished them up and it did start -just does not want to start easy -like my "A"s!!!

Good solid advise from everyone. One thing not mentioned....you are aware that with a distributer tractor , as apposed to a mag tractor, your starter is going to take pretty much all that junk bat has to offer. What is actually left for the coil to make spark ? And I assume it is still 6 volt besides, which, in and of itself is not a problem at all, but you have what sounds like a junk 6 v bat and maybe even a starter drawing way more than it should. If there isn't much left for the coil, you will not get good start or no start at all. Magneto tractors tend to spoil us a little and we forget the big difference between how the spark is actually made.

I would have to agree with you -but I have a brandy new 6 volt battery installed and I am leaving the battery charger on while I crank it. It does seem to spark when I first try and cough a bit then start running. Once it is running it runs smooth -idles down nice -even has a good throttle response. Seems to flood out easily though!
SO - I am also in agreement with all the juice being used by the starter just to get things moving and having little left for the points! SO - I am going ahead with my plan to take all connections apart-clean then and re install with fresh lock washers, fresh nuts and even fresh connector ends if needed!
Wish me luck! I am considering finding a magneto and installing it just to get away from the points!

I'm sure you know, they have points also.

Well The good news!!! I finally got around to working on this "B" today. Decided to give the rest of the shotgun effect!
So - I replaced the points and condensor and a fresh set of spark plugs AND plug wires!
Put the battery charger on it and put some fuel in the tank, When I hit the starter it turned over about 3 times and fired right off! Wonderful sound after all the efforts!
I even got it to sound a bit better and run easier when I adjusted the carburetor low jet! Maybe tomorrow I will get it out for a run down the road and let it stretch after all of the years without doing so!