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John Deere 2510 Spark Issues

T

TRMPyro

New User
Purchased a JD 2510 Gas tractor last year and it ran well for 6-8 months and then started to die whenever a load was put on the engine. It then would start and die at idle in about 10 seconds. I rebuilt the carb, seemed to help, then started again. Noticed gas was flowing through the carb when tractor was shut off and into oil. I changed oil and now have a ritual of closing the gas flow whenever I get off the tractor. I missed doing it for an hour one day and it started having issues again. So that is part one, looking for suggestions as to what might be going on.

I also decided to change out the points, coil, distributor, rotor, etc. Once I had everything installed, no spark. My starting questions are around the coil...wire from distributor goes to negative on coil, is that correct? Should I see 12V on the positive side of the coil? I only see 5.5V. Let's start there with this one and see if anyone has some advise.


I am a newbie to tractors for sure, and right now I have a big piece of yard art. Any guidance or help will be appreciated.
 
"wire from distributor goes to negative on coil, is that correct? Should I see 12V on the positive side of the coil? I only see 5.5V. Let's start there with this one and see if anyone has some advise."

Negative ground, negative post on coil to distributor. Positive ground, positive post on coil to distributor.

That system likely uses a "12 volt, external resistor required" or 6 volt coil. There should be a resistor or resistance wire from coil to switch. Resistor is bypassed when starter cranks engine to give hotter spark.

Distributor side of the coil should show near 0 volts with points closed and near battery voltage with points open. Switch side of coil should show near battery voltage with points open, and approximately half battery voltage with points closed. This is because current flows when points are closed and about half battery voltage is dropped across coil and half across resistor.

5.5 volts at + side of coil indicates points are closed. Check voltage with points open. If still 5.5 with points open something is shorted in distributor. Check feed through on the side or internal connection to points.
 
Thank you for the quick post, will look at voltage with points open tonight. The existing coil did not have a resistor attached to the coil, so I did not use the resistor on the new coil. Coil positive post/wire gets hot to touch now with key on. I know I have 12V at the points connection in the distributor, have not checked coil with open points, except with a test light while cranking engine, and I get nothing on the negative side, and weak light on the positive side. I went back to the old coil, same issue.

Thanks
 
Voltage does not change with the points opening and closing. I installed the resistor to see if that was an issue, it just cut the voltage in half like it should, now have 7V to 3.5V, but nothing on the
discharge. R lug of the starter has 12V when not connected to coil, and basically half when connected, slightly higher with the resistor installed.

In the distributor, points spring, condenser connector, and negative wire go to the same lug, is that correct? That is how it was when I took it apart, and don't see another place to land anything. Tried old
condenser, no change. Next to try old points, maybe bad parts or damaged them myself???

I am wanting to go electronic ignition, but figured I would get it running first, not sure where to go next.
 
OK, been reading some information about the stud inside the distributor, read about an isolation grommet, which I remember was destroyed when I took the old points out. Also read that order of connectors and touching the points spring is important. Is the isolation grommet something I can purchase? I haven't checked the JDParts site yet.......Sorry for repeated posts, not seeing the edit button.
 
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