5020 / 6030 Restoration Questions

MRogersII

Member
I recently bought a 5020 for a restore project. This tractor has what I believe to be a 6030 turbo and plumbing installed on it. My intention is to do a full restore on the tractor and then use it for occasional bush hog work pulling a 15' batwing. I had originally planned to remove the turbo and take it back to a straight 5020. I had read that the power on the 5020 was poor and was wondering if taking the turbo off would be a mistake? Seemed a shame to go to all the work to restore the tractor only to have it be a cobble between a 6030 and a 5020. Also, the turbo appears to be working fine right now but looks to be very old. In any case, looking for firsthand experience.

I posted this in the Restoration forum and someone suggested I post here.

Thank you for your help. I appreciate it. Michael
 
I think you need to figure out what you have for a turbo, or perhaps even an engine. That would help you make a better, informed decision. It is possible your tractor could have had a complete 6030 engine (or
newer 619) put in it along the way. Or it could have an aftermarket turbo. Some pics would help identify what you have.
 
(quoted from post at 17:39:44 04/08/17) I think you need to figure out what you have for a turbo, or perhaps even an engine. That would help you make a better, informed decision. It is possible your tractor could have had a complete 6030 engine (or
newer 619) put in it along the way. Or it could have an aftermarket turbo. Some pics would help identify what you have.

I can post some pics shortly. Thank you.
 
47562.jpg
47563.jpg
 
Connie i don,t think you will find any later engines or 619 s with rouse master pumps they were all the larger baush type
 
The pics help... appears to me to be the 5020 engine, and yes indeed someone hung the 6030 turbo, intercooler, etc on it. If it were me (and we've had 2 5020s over the years), I think I would leave it on
there. Nobody cut a hole in the hood with an ax that I can see, and so it could straighten up pretty nice.

5020s without the turbo had about a 140 hp, and being heavy, it didn't really seem like enough. They are not nimble and quick like 140 horses from a 4440, or something newer today. That turbo/intercooler
probably woke her up quite a bit, although as mentioned below it really isn't the same as 6030, as you still have the rotary injection pump.

Yeah, I vote to leave it on. But it is your tractor...
 
(quoted from post at 01:39:29 04/09/17) The pics help... appears to me to be the 5020 engine, and yes indeed someone hung the 6030 turbo, intercooler, etc on it. If it were me (and we've had 2 5020s over the years), I think I would leave it on
there. Nobody cut a hole in the hood with an ax that I can see, and so it could straighten up pretty nice.

5020s without the turbo had about a 140 hp, and being heavy, it didn't really seem like enough. They are not nimble and quick like 140 horses from a 4440, or something newer today. That turbo/intercooler
probably woke her up quite a bit, although as mentioned below it really isn't the same as 6030, as you still have the rotary injection pump.

Yeah, I vote to leave it on. But it is your tractor...
Thank you for the considered response. I appreciate it.
Regarding the pump, is the rotary the only option, or is another that could/should look into? I would prefer to only strip it down once.
 
For reference, I have two 5020s. One is a 71 that I use a little bit and I would absolutely kill for that setup you have. It wouldn't bother me one bit to have the turbo and intercooler on it. My other 5020 is a 72 model (kinda rare) that I am rebuilding now for my collection and you better bet I want it all original with no extra non 5020 parts bolted to it.

So I guess it all depends what your end goal is here. You say you are looking to restore this tractor but you didn't say if you were worried if the correct police were going to come knocking. So unless you are trying to win some competition for the most original tractor or are extremely afraid of the correct police, I'd say leave it that way and just paint it up nice.

Lastly, just keep in mind that changing it back might be a bit of a deterrent in itself because finding some of the original parts is a pain in the rear. I just went thru this trying to find a 531 exhaust manifold because mine had a chunk broken out of it. I assumed they were plentiful, but not so. The first 3-4 places that actually said they had one wanted between 400 and 500 bux. No way would I pay that. I finally did find one for less than that but it has taken over a month to do so. So unless you know where to go for the original 5020 parts, I would not even consider it.
 
I'm not sure if the larger 6030 pump would bolt up or not. Yours is the 5020 original, and should be fine. I'm guessing yours is a relatively late model? Neither of ours had the square fuel filter. I'm
guessing '71 or '72? If it is either, there were not many 5020s made in either year, as the just introduced 4620 had nearly the same power, optional power shift, optional 3 hydraulics, and I believe cheaper
if equipped similarly.
 
(quoted from post at 13:07:08 04/09/17) I'm not sure if the larger 6030 pump would bolt up or not. Yours is the 5020 original, and should be fine. I'm guessing yours is a relatively late model? Neither of ours had the square fuel filter. I'm
guessing '71 or '72? If it is either, there were not many 5020s made in either year, as the just introduced 4620 had nearly the same power, optional power shift, optional 3 hydraulics, and I believe cheaper
if equipped similarly.
When I looked up the plates, I came up with 1969.
 
(quoted from post at 04:03:40 04/09/17) For reference, I have two 5020s. One is a 71 that I use a little bit and I would absolutely kill for that setup you have. It wouldn't bother me one bit to have the turbo and intercooler on it. My other 5020 is a 72 model (kinda rare) that I am rebuilding now for my collection and you better bet I want it all original with no extra non 5020 parts bolted to it.

So I guess it all depends what your end goal is here. You say you are looking to restore this tractor but you didn't say if you were worried if the correct police were going to come knocking. So unless you are trying to win some competition for the most original tractor or are extremely afraid of the correct police, I'd say leave it that way and just paint it up nice.

Lastly, just keep in mind that changing it back might be a bit of a deterrent in itself because finding some of the original parts is a pain in the rear. I just went thru this trying to find a 531 exhaust manifold because mine had a chunk broken out of it. I assumed they were plentiful, but not so. The first 3-4 places that actually said they had one wanted between 400 and 500 bux. No way would I pay that. I finally did find one for less than that but it has taken over a month to do so. So unless you know where to go for the original 5020 parts, I would not even consider it.

In a perfect world, I would like to take it to "parade grade". However, in doing so I would likely lose all functionality. I've seen pics of some VERY nice ones online, particularly, 6030's but they look too nice for me to hook up a batwing and drive over the hill. Kind of like feeding hay out of the back hatch of a new Suburban.

I actually bought 2 tractors when I bought this one. I bought a 4020 as well and intend to restore both. I will work the 4020 though.
 
The last one we had was in the 26xxx range, too... but had the two spin on filters. I guess I can do some parts book looking. Have fun!
 
I have never had a tractor too nice to use or a car to nice to drive..I have probably had some that many would not use but that is what I enjoy is moving or raking hay, or using a box scraper,or pto work. The turbo wouldn't bother me at all as the 5020 with out were underpowered.Your tractor your decision!
 
(quoted from post at 15:47:33 04/09/17) The last one we had was in the 26xxx range, too... but had the two spin on filters. I guess I can do some parts book looking. Have fun!

The most immediate need is the removal of those giant dual hubs. I'm guessing that will require a pretty good pair of pliers. Is there a non "heat & beat" method to that? ?
 
(quoted from post at 18:13:10 04/09/17) Yeah, I thought that too... it certainly has had others! :)

Wonder what would make the pto fail to disengage. Spins all the time. I wedged a 2x4 against it at idle just to see if perhaps it was just freespinning but couldnt make it stop.
 
Being a turbo 5020 from 1969, I would leave it like this, put rear side shields made for 6030s. (they sell them in steel on Ebay now or you can call Dave Haala at Sleepy Eye for Fiberglass).
Then call it 5620, using the extra digits inside of the decal set.

Could you please post a picture of the intake tube? how did they manage to get the air to the turbo with 5020 air filter?


Your 5020 is really a late one. Mine is 1969 as well, but still has the ventilator pump. Yours does not and I do not think I have seen pictures of other without the pump. Does it have the dimmer switch pedal yet?
 
(quoted from post at 04:47:59 04/10/17) Being a turbo 5020 from 1969, I would leave it like this, put rear side shields made for 6030s. (they sell them in steel on Ebay now or you can call Dave Haala at Sleepy Eye for Fiberglass).
Then call it 5620, using the extra digits inside of the decal set.

Could you please post a picture of the intake tube? how did they manage to get the air to the turbo with 5020 air filter?


Your 5020 is really a late one. Mine is 1969 as well, but still has the ventilator pump. Yours does not and I do not think I have seen pictures of other without the pump. Does it have the dimmer switch pedal yet?

I hope to get the hood off this week. I'll post some better engine pics as soon as I get the hood up.
 

The PTO brake is accessed by splitting the tractor between the transmission and the clutch housing.
First, check adjustment of the cable to the PTO control valve, and adjustment of the valve per the manual. The valve can be removed to check seals as well fairly easily, and absolulutely needs to be removed before splitting the tractor, so I would check there first anyway. (get a manual, it is well explained).
 
(quoted from post at 06:12:19 04/10/17)
The PTO brake is accessed by splitting the tractor between the transmission and the clutch housing.
First, check adjustment of the cable to the PTO control valve, and adjustment of the valve per the manual. The valve can be removed to check seals as well fairly easily, and absolulutely needs to be removed before splitting the tractor, so I would check there first anyway. (get a manual, it is well explained).

Thank you, Sir.
Michael
 

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