John Deere 40

Looking at buying a JD 40 to use around small acreage. Have other JD tractors including a 50, but am not familiar with the 40. Are they pretty reliable, does it have live PTO, what are the weak points etc. Any info would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Are they pretty reliable[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

The Model 40 <a href="http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/3/38-john-deere-40.html">has approximately 24HP</a>.

If you plan on using an implement, then make sure the HP requirements of the implement do not exceed the 24HP max.

Depending on what the tractor is being used for, the optional front weights are sometimes required.

We have two Model 40 tractors and both are very reliable for the jobs that they perform.

"BW" our <a href="https://youtu.be/XJ9PLo2bRqk">1954 Model 40T</a> is used strictly for spraying herbicide on our hay fields.

It does have a full set of front weights and the two small ones are necessary to counter balance the 60 gallon spray tank.

"Audie" our <a href="https://youtu.be/BGMkWDg6S0U">1954 Model 40S</a> is used strictly for mowing with a 5ft Bush Hog FTH600 finishing mower.

Maneuvers the hills and terraces really good in several areas around the farm.

Would really like to have a front weight for this tractor.

Both of these tractors are fairly easy to work on when necessary.

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]does it have live PTO[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Neither of our 1954 Model 40 tractors have live PTO.

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]what are the weak points[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Make sure that you can safely and comfortably mount and dismount the tractor.

Bought both of our tractors from owners that were no longer able to mount and dismount the tractor.

As mentioned above about the front weights, do not overload the 3 point hitch or the front end will get "light".

Hope this helps.

No live pto.
Other than the convenience of a foot clutch
you probably won't like it. Deeres utility
tractors won't compare to the Waterloo tractors.

The steering mechanism has many wear points. Drive the tractor on a smooth road in 4th gear and see if you have shimmy or weaving.
This condition is common, and fixable.

Drain a little coolant into a can and see if its clear, green, or rusty.

I am planning on using a 60" 3 point tiller, a small box blade, and possibly pull a 2-10" JD 44 plow. Won't be using it a lot but want to have some fun.

Preacher man,

Check to see if you have a straight shifter or a bent shifter. You may have issues with the shifter if it is the bent one. There is a field service bulletin on this subject and some were updated and others not. Mine has a tower quadrant from a 420.

what model 40 do you have? the lower oes are not too hard to get on and off, the T for tricicle, is harder. Not to hard to build a step or buy one to adapt to make it easier, they are a good tractor but the rototiller would probably work better with the 50 especially if it has live pto

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Not to hard to build a step or buy one to adapt to make it easier[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Take a look at the step on "BW" our Model 40T.

Like other have said getting on & off is harder than your 50 model. However the 40's were easier the M & MT models.
It will not have Live PTO or Power steering. If the tractor your looking at is a standard type with 24" rear tires 1st
gear might be slow enough for a tiller on ground that has been a garden for some time. In My opinion they are very reliable,
nimble easy to repair for the most part.

Years ago I ran a tiller with my Deere M and the 1.5 mph first gear was slow enough to do a good job. From what I can tell both versions of the 40 (40 and 40S) have about the same gearing as the M so it should work with a tiller. For roto-tilling I actually prefer a non-live PTO since there's no need to run the tiller when you're not moving. With a live PTO if you clutch to stop the tractor with the tiller in the ground (such as when nosing up to a fence or other obstruction) it will dig a hole until lifted or the PTO is shut off. Seems easier to me just to have everything stop and since these tractors have live hydraulics you can still lift the tiller with the clutch disengaged.

As good as the 40 is , the same chassis in a 420 slant steer with live pto and power steering is 10 times better.