JD 2240 hydraulic fluid leak

cizmas · Mar 26, 2017

There is a hydraulic fluid leak at the pin that connects the draft link, on both sides.

To make sure I found the correct place where the hydraulic fluid is leaking, I removed the draft link (please see picture) - indeed, the oil is coming around these pins.

I looked in the on-line JD parts catalog but did not find information about these pins (well, I looked almost anywhere, but failed to find them). I suppose there is a seal on the inside of each pin.

I would appreciate any suggestions that would help fix this leak.

Thank you,
Paul

Hotflashjr · Mar 27, 2017

That is the load shaft. Look under Load Control or Load Shaft on JDparts. There is an o-ring and Teflon seal inside of there. Not a bad job to do just gotta figure out how to fold the Teflon seal to get it into place. Buy two sets of Teflon seals. I ruined one trying to install. Put the seals in a warm cup of water, not burning hot, then fold into a C shape. Insert into the hole and pop back into shape. If I remember correctly the Teflon seal is called a washer. On my 1020 the shaft was worn and I replaced the shaft at the same time but left the bushings. On our 2555 I did just the o-ring and Teflon seal.

Tx Jim · Mar 27, 2017

Parts schematic you were looking for is listed under "load control"in alphabetical index. Put L/D lever under seat in D or minimum. One needs to drain hyd oil or insert nozzle of operating shop vacuum in blocked off hyd filler hole to create a vacuum. Inspect shaft for wear and shim all side play when reinstalling 3 pt draft arms.

2ea-A4730R O-Ring - O ADD 1.70 USD 3.40 USD
2ea-T22098 Washer ADD 8.35 USD 16.70 USD
total 20.10 USD

cizmas · Mar 27, 2017

Jim, thank you for your reply!

How easy it is to pull the pin L26932 out? Do I have to use a rubber mallet or it just slides out?

To shim the side play, do I use additional metal washers?

Thank you,
Paul

cizmas · Mar 27, 2017

Thank you for your advise.

How easy it is to take the existing seal out? Do I have to take the pin out and then the washer, bushing, o-ring?

Thank you,
Paul

Tx Jim · Mar 27, 2017

Shaft can be removed by gentle tapping. Yes just add washers to outside of draft links to remove slack.

cizmas · Mar 27, 2017

Thank you!

cizmas · Mar 27, 2017

Jim:

I want to make sure I properly understood what to do with the L/D lever.

First, I do not know if the L/D lever is the rockshaft selector lever or the rockshaft control lever.

The rockshaft selector lever that can be in either (a) depth control, (b) load and depth control, and (c) load control.

The rockshaft control lever will raise or lower the draft links.

Which one shall I put in D or minimum: the rockshaft selector lever or the rockshaft control lever? (I could not find a "D" and I do not know if minimum refers to the position of draft links).

Thank you,
Paul

Hotflashjr · Mar 28, 2017

On the two I did I was able to just push the load shaft out with my hand. I did drain all the hydraulic oil when I replaced the seals because it was time to change it anyways. After removing the shaft I used a small pick and needle nose pliers to pull out the old o-ring and Teflon seal (washer). That was the easy part. Figuring out to bend the new seal into a C shape while in just warm water took me longer. Like I said, but two seats of Teflon seals. They are cheap enough and you may mangle a set figuring things out.

I did not attempt to change the bushing. The process everyone shared on here was to take and weld the end of the shaft to the bushing. Then use a hammer on the opposite side to bang out the bushing from the housing. You would then repeat the process to drive out the second bushing. When I took the load shaft out the wear I found was not at the location of the bushing, but the location of the Teflon seal for my 1020. The 2555 had no noticeable wear. I replaced the load shaft on the 1020 but did not replace the bushings. No problems or leaks. The 2555 did not have any wear so I did not touch the bushings or replace the load shaft.

Tx Jim · Mar 28, 2017

L/D control lever(key 9) is encircled in blue. Put this lever in "D".

Tx Jim · Mar 28, 2017

When I served as a JD dealer service manager I was instructed to only change L/D bushings when they showed wear. Changing bushings too regular can cause bore in trans case to get too large to correctly hold bushings.

Hotflashjr · Mar 28, 2017

I remember you telling me this!

cizmas · Apr 2, 2017

Jim:

I removed the load control shaft. Attached please find the pictures. I can see some wear on the shaft. I measured the diameter at different locations: it varies
between 20.68 mm to 20.53 mm. So, there is a 0.15 mm (6 mils) drop where the wear is.

Can I reuse this shaft or do I need a new one?

Thank you,
Paul

Tx Jim · Apr 2, 2017

I recommend you get a new shaft.

cizmas · Apr 2, 2017

Jim:

Thank you, I will get a new load control shaft. I already got the o-ring A4730R and the washer T22098.

My 2240 is an 1982, so it is the 350,000- version. When I removed the load control shaft, I found no o-ring. I then looked at the JD Technical Manual for 350,000- version
and noticed they do not show an o-ring, although the online JD parts catalog for 350,000- shows the o-ring. I also have the JD Technical Manual of the 2240 -349,999
(because I made mistake when I ordered it) and in this manual it shows the o-ring. It is not clear why JD eliminated the o-ring in the 350,000- version.

I have two questions:

(1) I am confused about the order in which the parts are shown in all the illustrations of the exploded view of the load control mechanism (please see attached). Should
not be the washer on the interior side of the bushing? Why is it shown on the exterior side of the bushing?

(2) If I still want to install the o-ring, where is this going?

Thank you,
Paul

cizmas · Apr 2, 2017

One more question: would you get a new aftermarket JD shaft at half the price of an original JD? Is it worthwhile paying double for original JD?

Thank you,
Paul

Tx Jim · Apr 2, 2017

I think 2240 SN> 350,000 has a washer & o-ring on each side of L/D shaft. I'd install an aftermarket shaft.

cizmas · Apr 2, 2017

This might be a silly question, but where did you put the o-rings? I know the washer goes in the bushing (with the hot water trick), but what and how is the o-ring sealing? For my 2240 SN > 350,000 it appears JD does not list the o-ring in the Technical Manual (please see my attachments in a question addressed to Jim).

The o-ring appears to fit the exterior of the washer, but I do not know where to install it.

Thank you,
Paul

Tx Jim · Apr 3, 2017

I think tech manual has a misprint or misinformation. Both serial # range 2240's utilize the same bushings(T22097 key 20) with the same outside diameter groove so therefore will require the same o-rings(A4730R key 19)& washers(T22098 key 17)

cizmas · Apr 3, 2017

Jim:

I am sorry to be so dense. I do not know where to put the o-ring. I do not know against what is it sealing. I see two options:

1. Is the o-ring supposed to be outside of the bushing, between the bushing (key 20) and the retainer bushing (key 18)? If yes, it seems to me that the o-ring
does not sit well on he retainer bushing.

2. Is the o-ring sitting at the outer radius of the washer (key 17)? This seems more plausible but there is no other part pressing on the o-ring. It is only the oil
pressure that pushes the o-ring against the bushing.

So: 1 or 2 or none of the above?

Thank you,
Paul

Tx Jim · Apr 4, 2017

The o-ring & sealing washer fit in groove in bushing(parts key 20) very similar to the photo you posted IE install o-ring then install washer inside 0-ring.

cizmas · Apr 4, 2017

Thank you - I will do so.

JD 2240 hydraulic fluid leak

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