Steering Worm Housing problem JD 630

tasherm

New User
I have read every post regarding re-centering the worm housing with no luck. Replaced radiator and disconnected steering housing. After putting back together- self steers hard to left- raised wheels off ground, drained some fluid (used 10-40 motor oil due to leak that I want to find later) loosened housing bolts, started tractor and found point where it steered both directions w/ same force. When I tried to add back the fluid the steering went to the left hard again! Is it the motor oil? Is it another problem? When I drained the old fluid there was very little (1 cup) in the system. Is the power steering fluid measured while running? I really never have had actual power steering before. Thanks in advance for any guidance/advice.
 
I have always checked fluid level on the dipstick with the tractor not running. I would say 10W-40 engine oil is thicker than the original JD power steering fluid. If you have access to tractor trans/hydraulic fluid, or even automatic transmission fluid, those would probably be better choices until you get the leak fixed. Although expensive compared to regular oil I recommend buying the JD power steering fluid after the repair the leak.
Regarding the steering pulling left after you added back oil, my opinion is this indicates the control valve centering is still slightly off. When the fluid level was lower the pump may have been aerating the oil and so the flow control valve was likely shut. This would tend to dampen the steering valve "touchiness" and now that you have the fluid level correct and the extra flow is actuating the flow control valve (dumping some flow back to sump) its changed the sensitivity of how well the control valve is centered.
 
Paul,
Do you fill up before loosening/adjusting the housing? I get significant fluid loss when I tried adjusting with fluid to the fill line.
 
I don't remember a lot of fluid loss making that adjustment. I think the repair manual mentions barely loosening the bolts and using a hammer and punch to lightly tap forward or back for the sweet spot. My manual is out in the shop, so I can't quote it word for word.
 

Did work on the system with the service manual or by guess and by golley? Iirc there are about 20pages of text, illustrations and images describing the service of a PS system. Use a JD manual as the IT manual contains just enough info to be dangerous.

The pins, worm gear , backlash, link to the operating valve ,the operating valve to housing clearance and clearance between the pedestal gear to the mating gear on the end of the worm gear have to be exact. The right/left vanes at the bottom of the pedistal have to be leak free also.
10W-40 motor oil ain't the oil to use either . Hy-Gard for flush and fill before using the real JD PS oil.
 
Actually only intended to work on radiator.
..PS system is next project and i will get
the book sm2050. Thx i had to disconnect
worm housing to take out radiator...didn't
think i was messing with valve until it
didn't work afterwards
 
I agree with PGH comment that you only loosen the control valve housing bolts slightly, you want enough friction that you have
to use a light tap with a hammer to make it move and not vibrate around, thus the gasket is still under some pressure. I have
not experienced much leaking when adjusting the control valve to center.
 

Opened up Steering Valve to see if it was stuck instead it came right out! The retainer bolt had sheared! Don;t know what would have made that happen but could be root cause for all the problems. Thx
 

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