2510 lights

stubby11

New User
I bought a 2510 gas and the lights did not work, I replaced the lamps and now the inside lights come on when I turn on the ignition switch on,I replaced the switch and they still light anybody have any suggestions?
 
The lights on a 2510 will only be on when the ignition switch and the light switch are on. Are they coming on with JUST the ignition switch?????

I am guessing not...

But, if you have some lights (just the insides) Then I suggest you start by wiggling the large connectors in the wiring harness located back of the key switch panel. It is common for things to loosen up there. I have taken those plugs and wrapped a zip tie around them to hold them tight.

Let us know more as you experiment more.
 
Whenever I work on the lights on my 25xx tractors, after I check the bulbs, I make sure there is a good ground from the fender lights to the transmission case casting. I actually run ground leads from EACH bulb holder, usually I put a half inch ring terminal under EACH 3/4" nut.

I did this on a 4020 and I can always pick it out at night, the lights come on really bright, it has a good ground for each of the fender lights.

I also clean to bare metal and use star washers.

The same for fuel tank senders.

Always check the grounds first. Remember, on these 50ish year old tractors the grounds relying on chassis connections are severely compromised by rust, paint, and other contaminants.

Just saying.

Paul
 
the inside lights come on when I TURN on the ignition switch with the light switch is off also we have a new wiring harness on it
 
I read your post again, maybe I did not properly answer your question.

1. Connie had a good comment, I also assume the ignition and light switch are both on. But if not you might want to inspect your tractor wiring to see if it is original or others have done their own unique "fixing". I saw this on a Massey. Over 50 years all sorts of creative trouble shooting could have occurred.

2. The connector comment is also excellent. I like to pull the connectors apart, flush with brake cleaner and then flush with contact cleaner. I use a soup or coffee can to make a mini washing/soaking station to deal with the connector, contacts and wirings still installed in the connector. Of course the two halves are apart. I also do this with the back of switches where all sorts of oily dust has collected. I would have to say after checking the loads (lights and solenoids) and grounds, check the connectors looking at wiring condition along the way.

3. I worked on a 3020 recently, it had had a small fire under the dash that had been repaired. I came to find out the local dealership had replaced some connectors by crimping on new terminals and inserting them into new plastic housings. The metal tangs on the individual wires were not properly flared out to latch into the plastic housing. When the two halves of the connector were pushed together several of the terminals pushed back from the other mating half creating intermittent connections. When I fixed that I solved several wiring issues that tractor was experiencing.

4. I hope you have a VOM to help.

Good Luck.

Paul
 
Now I am guessing either the wiring harness was improperly built or improperly installed. I am guessing the later. The backs of the ignition switch and light switch can be confusing especially if not properly cleaned. I would start there. Oh, cleanliness is your friend.

I have gotten wiring harnesses from Agri-Services and they were absolutely top notch and very well labeled to aid in installation. I might have to eat my words but I seriously doubt the wiring harness came from Agri-Services.

One other general comment. I worked on a 1967 4020 and found areas the wiring harness was literally rotten, there was no fixing it without major replacement. Then it is time for a new one in my humble opinion.

Paul
 
My winter project has also been getting the lights to work on my 2510. A multimeter was very helpful, to check continuity, voltage, amps. They cost about $15. On my 2510, the wiring had decomposed where the lamp harness goes under the toolbox and starts toward the left axle, behind your left leg. Where it goes under the little half-pipe on the axle. Also, I had to remove one of the lights and run a soft wire grinder over the various surfaces to get a good ground. And, I decided to run a 10ga wire from the starter terminal straight to the circuit breaker, so as to not have all those amps running through the starter switch.
 

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