4010 resurrection part 2

Ken in MN · Mar 19, 2017

Got it split to fix the pto because the stub shaft came loose. Done.

Removed rockshaft housing & took the rockshaft valve apart to check/clean/ replace whatever needs it. 1 spring & ball missing. It's getting all new o rings also.

Removed trans pump & pipes. Gears scored, o rings missing, & check valve seat/bushing was installed upside down.

Rebuilt the brake valve. Lots of silicone pieces in it.

Filter relief valve is off but I haven't taken it apart yet.

Load shaft is removed to replace bushings & seals with the o ring style. Also replacing front drawbar bushing & pin.

Steering valve is at Tim S' to be checked out.

I'll flush the housing & can start reassembly. Then the final drives come off for new brakes & whatever else I find in there. Every seam on this 4010 has blue silicone on it. Somebody's
been into it before.

Scott 730 · Mar 19, 2017

Just finished with an overhaul of the trans in my 730 Diesel. Everything sealed with blue silicone and what gaskets were there seem to be made from the boxes of whatever beer was being consumed that day. :shock:

tomstractorsandtoys · Mar 19, 2017

Looks like you are doing it right. I have a 4020 rear in the shop now that is down to an empty case. We are going to replace every bearing in the whole rear end. Tractor has close to 20,000 hours. Tom

Tx Jim · Mar 20, 2017

If that was my 4010 that I planned to use I'd alter the pto to "540 rpm only" by removing 1000 rpm drive gear. Those tiny pto speed shift pins were not one of JD engineers shining moments.

Ken in MN · Mar 20, 2017

I discussed with my brother about removing the 1000 rpm pto gear. As this is/was Dad's tractor & we're using the equipment together. He wanted to keep both pto speeds just in case, if we ever decide not to work together anymore this 4010 will be going to him so I'm going to keep it that way.

It is not a very good design for sure. New bolts with Loctite will be used for the stub shaft for sure.

NY 986 · Mar 20, 2017

Take some light gauge metal and cut it into a semi circle where two of the four holes for the stub shaft go through. Drill out the holes. While installing the stub use the bolts to hold the metal to the outside of the stub shaft. Bend a portion of the the metal back over the head of the bolts to lock the bolt into position. Use a punch or chisel to push the metal tab tight to the bolt head. The dealer did this to our 4010 many years ago and other than one time when I was in a hurry and forgot to use the tab during a change over the back shaft has never given any trouble. This was with running a 347 wire baler and other heavy PTO implements.

61-4010 · Mar 23, 2017

Nice. While you are in there, are you planing to rebuild the synchronizer too?

Ken in MN · Mar 23, 2017

Not this time. I'll be rebuilding the engine in a couple of years. I'll do both clutches & go through the tranny at that time. Wish I could do it all right now but funds & time are running short.

4010 resurrection part 2

Ken in MN

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Scott 730

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tomstractorsandtoys

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Tx Jim

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Ken in MN

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NY 986

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61-4010

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Ken in MN

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