GP valves

How much oil goes in the valve compartment on a 1930 GP small bore?
I am starting to re-assemble after re-sleeving both cylinders and installing two valves seats. I know I read somewhere that there was a set amount of oil to put in it but I can't remember where I read it.

Why couldn't a person drill a small passage (say 1/8") in the block at the bottom of the center stud hole. Mine is out right now, the center bolt hole of the cylinders is very close to the oil line feeding cam bevel gears, and then drill a small hole through the center stud. Then in a different location drill a return (1/4") at the proper level to atomatically drain this valve area back to the crankcase. There would be plenty of oil supply available and it would maintain the right height that should be there.
If for some reason it did not work, put a solid stud back in. I'm a machinist and this would be a easy thing to do, then it would be automatically maintained. I know you would not want too much oil in this area but if the drain was the right height it should work.

The valves on the GP are lubricated with a splash system. There should be enough oil in
that cavity to touch the valve springs but not be up to the valve stem. Pumping oil into
the cavity and simply draining it back into the base will not maintain this level.

Owners manual says 1 1/2 pints of oil for the valve spring chamber. While you have your GP apart, be sure to modify the oil supply going to the
governor. GP governors are badly worn because of inadequate lubrication.You will find an oil line going to a fitting below the gov.Remove the bottom
oil fitting and drill a 3/16" hole all the way through and reinstall. Next get a 1/8" pipe plug and drill a 3/16" hole from the bottom of the 1/8"
plug to within 1/8" from the top, then drill a 1/16" hole through the plug and screw it into the top main case above the original fitting. Also make
sure the tappet adjusting bolts are smooth and do not have an indentation in them that will throw off the adjustment of .030.

OK just so I get it right, The oil line comming from the oil indication plunger to just under and to the right side (clutch side) of the bevel gears that drive the fan shaft. ( I had that line off and cleaned it) There was nothing on top of the line next to the gears, the hole in the casting looks to be threaded from the top (looks to be 1/8" pipe). Should there be a fitting in there? That is the same oil galley I thought about tapping into to bring oil into the valve area, Just need to know what level to drill a drain hole to maintain 1 1/2 pints of oil. Do you have a cell phone I could text some pictures to? Mine is 2182592901

5152306173

<a href="http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt" target="_blank">Parts applet</a> speaks of an inspection hole in the governor case, perhaps that's the purpose of the 1/8" NPT plugged hole?

It might have other purposes too. As in machining access to make the oil supply 'spray' hole for the upper governor case. My governor case A 2422R on my 44 A is shown below for an example of how hidden these might be.




Oil gauge street elbow has been removed from back side of governor and is now perched on top of the starter. In the bottom of this 1/8" NPT hole is an extra long ACE hardware 1/16" drill bit slid into the spray hole for this governor showing access to clear this often plugged up oiling system for the upper governor and especially fan gears. In my case, I did have to drill this passage in order to fit this drill bit as the hole was under 1/16" originally, but not by very much. This drill size then won't fit a factory hole, you'll have to find a smaller goop pusher or drill it out like I did. Alternate methods to just probing the hole clear is to attach shop air to the 1/8" NPT fitting and give it a minute at 100 PSI air. Can take up to half a minute before you get a pop and then HISS out of it. Or a long handled grease gun with hose will also readily attach to the 1/8" NPT thread port and the application of 20,000 PSI grease will certainly clear the hole too. Pretty sure they all had this seekret spray hole or at the very least need one.

Well after talking to Mark I-a on the phone, BIG THANKS MARK!
I looked at the fitting he mentioned. It was 90% plugged. I added the fitting on top to spray oil better in that area. I also took the govenor off and went though it, replaceing pins and a little weld repair in the weight levers that contact the govenor plunger. They were badly worn. I weighed each weight and found 9 grams difference between them so I made a little correction and made them exactly the same. It should run better with balanced weights.
I put it all back on today and timed it, That was easier than I thought it might be. The magneto drive on this GP has a drive plate that is clamped between the drive coupling and ring and is easily and infininetly adjustable. I don't know if other John Deere's are built like this or not since this is the first one I have owned. My dad had a 44 D and when he passed away in 1985 I sold it for my mom. It ran and everthing but I never worked on it.