4650 steering

fixerupper

Well-known Member
Mainly when the oil is cold the steering will stiffen up for a short time after I move the steering wheel real fast. It doesn't matter if I turn the steering wheel a quick full turn or of I wiggle the steering wheel fast back and forth, the steering wheel will be harder to turn for awhile after the fast steering. The stiffness seems to go away quicker if I hold the steering straight ahead for a few seconds. If I continue to move the steering wheel it seems like the stiffness lasts longer before it will free up. I have noticed this to a much lesser degree when the tractor is warmed up in the field. It has done this sporatically for a couple of years and has not gotten worse. What's going on? All other hydraulics work fine. It's a power shift.
 
The check valve in the metering pump (at the base of the steering wheel) could be letting too much charge oil into the pump is one thing,, the other is the steering "Brick" under the hood can be scored up and not moving well, remove the end caps on the brick and see if the spool valve moves easy,, use a piece of card board to direct the pint or so of oil into a catch pan..
 
Thanks Tim. This tractor has 10,000 hours so I'm not alarmed about little quirks like this showing up.
 
I hate to add to your misery,, but metal flakes in the system will cause this in the steering brick...do a little checking to see if some thing is flaking off,,it will show up in the trans filter..the spool valve in that brick is a machine fit,so when metal bits and flakes get in there is starts to bind and lock,, when you turn the steering wheel you are "pumping" oil one way, then the other to move this spool, so a stuck spool will mean hard steering.
 
OOH, filings. That brings back memories of a 1070 Case I bought new in 1974. A nut on the end of a transmission shaft cracked and slid off the threads. The shaft was moving end ways and gears were touching each other, making filings. Warranty covered the fix which involved completely stripping the transmission, and I think differential too. The mechanic flushed it thoroughly but the filings had done damage to the power brake master cylinder. The brakes would come on by themselves, smoking the brakes. A new master cylinder cost $400 at that time, probably in 1975 or 1976 and it was after warranty was off but the dealer threw in the labor and I paid for the master cylinder. $400 was a LOT of money for me at that time in my life.

I plan to check the screen and change Hy Gard and filters pretty soon before planting starts. I'll let you know what I find. Might be a month or so.
 

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