The left and right lift cylinders on my 48 loader have begun to leak and need to be rebuilt. It is difficult, if not impossible, to change the fuel filters and get in to the oil bath air cleaner with the loader on. So I figured I as long as I was messing with removing the lift cylinders I would take the entire loader off. Then I could get to the fuel filters and the oil bath. Would there be anything else I should look at while the loader is off? As I understand it, getting the loader off may not be that big of a deal. Getting it back on might be where the fun starts or so I am told. I do not have the stands, so was figuring on using an overhead chain hoist.
- Thread starter SHALER
- Start date
Bob Harvey
Well-known Member
A shop crane is your friend. Some 2x4's and clamps might substitute for the stands. HTH
Shaler, if you can find stands to borrow, they really are convenient, but a shop crane should work. 2 bolts each side, front pin comes out, roll the bucket back and the loader should lift right out of the rear brackets. Unhook your hydraulic lines, and back straight out. If you need to service your fuel filters and oil bath once you have your cylinder re-sealed and your loader back on, lift the loader high enough to where you can tip the bucket straight down to support the loader. That should give you enough clearance to service those items. I have a 4010 with a 48, but wish I had a 148. Good Luck.
Mike
Mike
The first time trying to put the 48 loader back on the 1520 was pure hell.
Had it hanging in the air via cables (no stands either).
Also, the front cross-member had dropped.
Solution:
Built some stands out of some large angle-iron & square tubbing.
Turned some pointed cones that mount on the brackets to center the loader mounts.
Always put a jack or blocks under one end of the front cross-member to stop it from dropping.
Had it hanging in the air via cables (no stands either).
Also, the front cross-member had dropped.
Solution:
Built some stands out of some large angle-iron & square tubbing.
Turned some pointed cones that mount on the brackets to center the loader mounts.
Always put a jack or blocks under one end of the front cross-member to stop it from dropping.
Hi sdmike,
When you say “roll the bucket back”, do you curl the bucket down before you set the loader down?
I’m always looking for an easier way?!
I leave the bucket curled up & add a few concrete blocks to help the booms lift off the brackets when I bump the boom cylinder’s SCV.
I have to lift the booms off the brackets far enough to get the stand brackets in there & attached. Pretty scary doin’ this.
I also leave the front pin in until I have the stands attached.
I also had to extend the feed & return lines to the SCVs to allow me to hook ‘em up farther away while trying to re-attach ‘cause the front cross-member had dropped.
tech5201, when I remove mine, I set the bucket flat on the ground. Then I remove the 2 bolts from each side and pull the pin from the front bracket. At that point, I roll the bucket all the way back which lifts the loader about 4-6 inches up from the rear brackets, that gives me enough room to mount the stands. With the bucket on the ground, I have never had the front cross tube come out of the bracket until I back out. Hope this helps.
Mike
Mike
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