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4430 Clutch

M

MaverickM23

Member
Working on my new to me 1977 4430. The previous owner had a loader on it which I removed but he had the hydraulics all hacked up trying to run the loader. I have it back to original but now when I drive it the clutch seems to be real jumpy, like it will reach a point and then just take off even when I ease it out. Now I have two 3010's, a 4020, and a 4320 so I thought that this one would act the same. Maybe I just need to get used to it but didn't know if I am overlooking something. I have the pedal adjusted according to the technical manual. Thanks
 
10 and 20 series New Gen's were dry clutch while 30 series row crops were wet. If you are confident in the adjustments you may have other issues. They do eventually require replacement of the internals.
 
We have similar issues with our 4230 with quad range transmission and a syncro would give the same problems. If it is a powershift, I cannot say. I believe there are some test ports where pressure readings can be taken from in helping to diagnose your problem. I am leaning towards probably needing the tractor split apart and having the Perma-clutch gone through and rebuilt.
 
I had a clutch in a quad range rebuilt and it seems to have a point of takeoff. Even grinds some going into gears unless you work it in. Clutch has less than 200 hrs. Had a mechanic out who told me to clean around linkage but wasn't the problem at all. I plan on taking pressure readings before the next step.
 
Remove and check the operating valve and Springs inside the clutch operating housing,you will probably find a broken spring in there.
 
I will check those springs. Now is it the springs in the clutch valve housing, or the springs in the clutch oil pressure regulating valve that I should be looking at? The clutch oil pressure springs come out from the bottom and the others look like they come out from the top.
 
The springs and valve I am talking about are inside the clutch operating valve housing on the left side of the case, to remove it you take out the perimeter bolts the 2 large oil pipes and linkage, the clutch linkage has a wire clip that you must run the jam nut up about 3/4" to let the wire come up and out of the clevis spring, after you have every thing unhooked pry the valve housing off the side there are some coupler pipes inside to look out for, then on the bench you remove the inner half of the housing to get the valve out of the housing,, you will need to take the control arms off to do this,, it is simple enough to do..sand the valve with some fine paper to clean it and replace the 2 springs, this valve is meant to release slowly in a first stage to allow the clutch to "Feather" then the second stage opens full to the work stage,, when they get jumpy the first stage don't take place and the clutch can not "Feather" or release gently.
a152146.jpg
 
Only thing I would want add is to caution anyone that takes fine paper to polish the valve to make sure you do not knock the corner edges of the valve spool off. Chucking them up and turning them using something flat like a file wrapped in the fine paper will help keep them true. I'm thinking something like 600 wet or dry paper or finer wetted with WD40. or kerosene.
 
Yes,, and I'm only talking about a little bit of sanding to clean them off some I use 1,000 grit on them.. I had one a few weeks ago that was all scoffed up I replaced the body and the valve...
 
Thanks for the detailed information. I have the springs ordered and will work on it as soon as I get them. I will post back with what I find. Thanks again
 
If the oil level is correct it will be right at the level of the opening, no need to drain..have a catch pan there in case your a bit over full...
 
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