5300 Hydraulic system

I posted in late August about the hydraulics on a John Deere 5300 quit working. The drive shaft was sheared and after removing the end cap from the hydraulic pump there was some metal shavings inside the pump. My concern is some of these may have entered the hydraulic system. I am going to flush the supply line from the pump and hoses for the loader. Would I also need to disassemble and clean the dual service control valve? Any advice about the proper way to flush the system would be appreciated.

Strange, no one has chimed in here yet. Evidently they're kinda like I am, hesitant to jump in because of not really knowing. Still, here's some thoughts. As the system's filter is the last thing before oil goes to the pump. Debris is probably already spread throughout the system. However, it would be from usual wear and tear, not necessarily from the shaft having broken. Of course flushing the lines you mention can't hurt. However, really what good would it do to flush the lines to the loader if the cylinder's aren't flushed? First though, I think I'd have a good set-down session with a tech at your local JD dealer, or with a tech manual. Short of that, being a believer that whatever damage there is has already occurred, after flushing the line from the pump, changing the hydraulic oil, giving her a new hydraulic filter and cleaning the suction screen, I'd go ahead and run her. I believe I'd then change the hydraulic oil filter again after just a few hours of running. What ever damages that had been done will make itself evident. If it does, then go after it. Good luck!

Thanks for the advice. When the hydraulics quit working someone posted the drive gear had probably sheared. I removed the pump and pulled on the drive gear and it came out of the pump where it had sheared. I just removed the front cover of the pump a few days ago and saw the metal shavings. I have been reading the tech manual that someone kindly gave me when I first posted about the problem to become familiar with everything. With the price of a new pump I did not want to take the chance of destroying it or something else without asking for some advice. I was worried about metal shavings in the dual service valve and was not sure if I should try to flush it first. I see your point about the cylinders and how debris could still enter the valve. If needed I would take the time to flush and clean the system. I may follow your suggestion and run the tractor once I purchase a pump and go from there. Thanks

The broken drive maybe a symptom rather than the problem. Is there something " dead heading" the hydraulic system such as a stuck relief valve? Has somebody added a closed center loader valve or something ?

Agreed - better figure out what the root cause of the problem is before donating the price of a pump to it.

The tractor appears to be all original. It is only used a few hours every year around my mother in laws place and I have never noticed anything strange while using it. My father in law bought it sometime in the 90's and I never heard him complain about anything.When the hydraulics quit working, I was pushing a 4x4 post out of the ground. I was going to raise the bucket a little higher but it would not. I then realized the steering and 3 point were not working either. The motor did not lug and there were no abnormal sounds when it quit working. The shaft is a smooth break except at the corner where it finally fatigued. I am thinking this is where the metal shavings came from. Everything I have read about shaft failure indicates it was due to improper drive alignment but I am no expert in the subject. I have checked the suction screen and wiped the bottom of the reservoir the best I could with a rag and did not see any metal shavings. My concern was some debris entering the relief valve causing the pump to dead head when I do install another pump. The tractor serial number is 121569 and takes pump RE40444. I plan to purchase or make a pressure gauge to check the system pressure when I determine the best course of action to take.