3010 Diesel wont start

Nick06

Member
Tractor has been running just fine. Used it the other day, parked it in barn, left it running at about 1000 rpms, jumped off, closed the gate. Idled it down and it died. Never done that too me. Cranked it a few times, nothing. Pulled thottled to about half, cranked, it started, revved up, and died. Let it sit a few days so i could think. Plugged it in this morning for couple hours. Checked fuel tank, little over half full. No fuel in oil. Throttle linkage appears to be in fine working order. Loosened top bleed screw on filter, worked manual pump a couple of times and got fuel coming out. Any ideas? Thanks, Nick
3010 Diesel sn#46857
 
Loosen the screws holding the injector timing window on the side of the injector pump, to where fuel leaks out, with the screws loose try to start it,,if it starts and runs tighten the screws back up,,if it trys to die again or idle down on it's own the return fitting in the pump is clogged,,check these things over and let us know what you find..
 

Ive attemped to upload a pic of my injector pump
a247952.jpg
 

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Thanks, Jim.
I loosened the screws and the plate to allow some fuel to seep. Cranked tractor, more fuel came out but weak batteries didnt allow me to crank very long. Didnt start. Will put on charger and report back.

4520-isnt gelled fuel caused by cold temps? I could be wrong, though. Its about 60 degrees here today, it was in the 30s the day it quit on me
 
You must of got up on the wrong tractor and picked the gas model. Some Guys here will tell you diesels never can do that !
Any and all models can die on you unexpectedly. This one might get expensive if the pump flex ring died.
 
Number 2 Diesel should be good down to 20 degrees with no additive, but I doubt the engine will start below 45 without assistance, such as block heater or ether. I also recommend that you run it for a few minutes with the pump cover off, more than likely the retainer ring is coming apart and plugged up return.
 
Batteries fully charged, block heater plugged in for 3 hours. Loosed screws on cover plate to alow fuel to seep, cranked and cranked, still wont fire, but more fuel seeping from cover plate. Any ideas?
 
Remove the fitting on the top cover, all the way down to the aluminum cover and try to start it..
Have you loosened the lines AT the injectors to see if its air bound or at the least, pumping fuel to the injectors.
 
Pump guy

Do you mean the fuel inlet on the top of the pump? And /or the four screws holding that whole piece on? Ive been loosening the two screws on the plate on the side of the pump. Ive not checked for air yet, i use the tractor on a almost weekly basis.
 

Do you have speed control lever pulled at least 1/2 way down?

Removing fitting that thepumpguysc referred to will not aid or assist starting any more than loosening timing window screws & rubber gasket from inj pump body.
 
Half throttle, full throttle, idle. Tried it all

If i take off the return line from the pump, can i used to compressed air to blow out the line going back to the tank? Or will this damage injectors?
 

You can blow compressed air into return line with no adverse affects BUT if engine won't start with IP timing window plate & gasket loose then unplugging return line isn't going to solve the problem IE cause engine to start.
 
Yes you can blow back thru the line to the tank..actually its recommended.
It almost sounds like the head seized??
Remove the fitting and loosen the injector lines.
If that doesn't work.. remove the fuel inlet line from the pump..
Hold your finger over the inlet on the pump and have someone crank the engine..
You should feel some suction from the pump..
IF NOT, the end of the pump isn't rotating.. either the head is seized up or the transfer pump isn't working.
You can verify this by removing the end plate and BUMP the engine over and see if it spins..
 
Can you see that the pump is actually rotating??remove the timing window cover and see if the plate is turning,, it may have locked up and sheared the drive shaft..
 
Update---

Sorry for taking so long; sent IP off to get rebuilt, shop said it had quite a bit of rust and debris inside.
Got it back and put back on, has run like a champ ever since.
Diesel shop did suggest i might consider draining fuel tank. I changed both fuel filters before reinstall and put two cans of sea foam when i filled fuel tank.
When i check fuel level with my handy dandy pvc gauge, i can feel some debris (rust) settled at the bottom of the tank.
Would removing the fuel cock and line allow me to flush most of this crud out? Or should i think about taking the tank off completely? Or just change both fuel filters every year? Thanks Nick
 

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