- Thread starter metalwman
- Start date
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
What tractor serial number and pump. There were several.
Is there free uninterrupted flow from the tank to the injection pump inlet. Crud in the bottom of the tank/fittings is common. So are weak primary pumps or clogged filters.
What is the tractor doing that suggests a failing/failed injection pump?
Is there free uninterrupted flow from the tank to the injection pump inlet. Crud in the bottom of the tank/fittings is common. So are weak primary pumps or clogged filters.
What is the tractor doing that suggests a failing/failed injection pump?
They are easy pumps to repair, but are rarely actually "rebuilt." All parts are available and cheap, especially aftermarket. All depends on what that word means to you. Most pumps called "rebuilt" get less then $50 in new parts installed, and it only takes an hour or two to do the job (with the pump on the bench).5020 uses either a DBGFC637-50AJ or a DBGFC637-91AL.
If your tractor was still starting OK, cold or hot - you pump probably needs very little in parts. A $14 seal kit, a new $8 drive bushing, and maybe $10 in pump-vanes.
If your tractor was still starting OK, cold or hot - you pump probably needs very little in parts. A $14 seal kit, a new $8 drive bushing, and maybe $10 in pump-vanes.
I doubt your pump was "fully rebuilt." In most cases, they get torn apart, cleaned, and just about all moving parts reused as-is. They just get patched up, resealed, and calibration checked and/or reset. Many so-called "rebuilt" pumps have many to most parts inside untouched, un-renewed, and unchanged with 20,000, 30,000 hours, and sometimes more.
The exception would be - if your original pump was siezed and you asked to get it fixed. Then it would get some major parts replaced, the the cost would be sky-high. Often over $1000.
The exception would be - if your original pump was siezed and you asked to get it fixed. Then it would get some major parts replaced, the the cost would be sky-high. Often over $1000.
I have had the primary/primer pump replaced, new filters, blew through the line to the tank. The return line does not have a check valve that we can tell. When we it loosen the return line and held finger over the pump, the tractor run better, put the line back on it would almost die. Called a place in Okla. City this morning, the guy said probably flex ring is bad/deteriorated. Said it would cost about $500 to fix it. Abliene Machine said $725 with the core. I'm not sure this is the original pump but here are the numbers. 5020 Tractor serial #T323R017807R. Roosa Master pump, model #795036 and another number is DBGFC637-50AJ.
If you took the fitting right out of the pump (that you were holding your finger on) - it would probably run for awhile. Not the flare fitting - but the second piece it screws into.
As I told you before, you probably need less then $50 in parts. The "flex ring" comes in a complete seal kit that costs around $13. That, and an $8 bushing, and a $15 pump-vane kit, and it's probably all you need.
What it boils down to is - one place is going to charge you $500, and the other $750 - to put $25-$50 in parts into your pump and spend two hours of time on it.
That's why I do them myself, as well as many other people.
Here's what a new $3 ring looks like, and also what a broken one looks like.
<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view¤t=weight_retainer_ring_new.jpg" target="_blank">
![weight_retainer_ring_new.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket](https://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/weight_retainer_ring_new.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket)
</a>
<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view¤t=weight_retainer_broken.jpg" target="_blank">
![weight_retainer_broken.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket](https://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/weight_retainer_broken.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket)
</a>
As I told you before, you probably need less then $50 in parts. The "flex ring" comes in a complete seal kit that costs around $13. That, and an $8 bushing, and a $15 pump-vane kit, and it's probably all you need.
What it boils down to is - one place is going to charge you $500, and the other $750 - to put $25-$50 in parts into your pump and spend two hours of time on it.
That's why I do them myself, as well as many other people.
Here's what a new $3 ring looks like, and also what a broken one looks like.
<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view¤t=weight_retainer_ring_new.jpg" target="_blank">
<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view¤t=weight_retainer_broken.jpg" target="_blank">
rexhellwig
Member
If you are near Tulsa, you can't go wrong at Thompson Diesel. Tell Don I said Hi.
Since I don't know how to work on those pumps and would be afraid that I might do more harm than good and have to buy another pump. Getting ripped, seems to be the alternative. Not alot of choices. I'm not sure where to get the parts and exactly what parts even if I wanted to try and tackle this. You make it sound like a piece of cake.
It's only a "piece of cake" if you know how to do it - just like anything else. That being said, a injection pump is just a hydraulic pump with some added controls. So, for anyone with mechanical skills, and the correct repair information, it's not all that difficult. Anybody that can rebuild an engine, carburetor, hydraulic pump. etc. - can repair an injection pump if they have the parts and repair information.
The repair manual is available for around $25, and all the parts are available to anyone.
In regard to getting overcharged - there are still pump shops around that fix those pumps for $275-$300 - but you have to shop around.
The repair manual is available for around $25, and all the parts are available to anyone.
In regard to getting overcharged - there are still pump shops around that fix those pumps for $275-$300 - but you have to shop around.
Well jdemaris, I'm just going to have to take a hicky on this one.... and hope it doesn't show too much! As for "shopping around" those that I called and had been referred to, were in the same range or a little higher. I need to be using this tractor, so I'm going to spend the 500 plus. I appreciate your knowledge and imput. I don't know where you live but I wished it were close. I would have given you the job!!!
THANKS to you and all who responded
THANKS to you and all who responded
Like I said, there are still shops doing it for less, but they are getting scarce. Dieselcare advertises on the Net - $425 for all Deere DB and JDB pumps. A friend of mine in Texas got his done a few months ago for $325 (I don't recall what shop)
Dieselcare's Website is at:
http://www.dieselcare.com/
Dieselcare's Website is at:
http://www.dieselcare.com/
The fact that it now runs well doesn't prove a thing. An $80,000 car won't run without $10 worth of spark plugs.
Now, if your pump was originally siezed, that's a different story. Most pump shops will tell you, up-front, that their normal repair prices are for non-siezed pumps only.
Now, if your pump was originally siezed, that's a different story. Most pump shops will tell you, up-front, that their normal repair prices are for non-siezed pumps only.
Got my injector pump today, put back on tractor and now it runs but not good. It idles just fine but when throttled down it starts to miss like a bad injector and smokes something terrible.
Does that sound like a bad injector??? White smoke usually indicates water doesn't it??? It could have had some condensation, but the tank was drained a year ago and hasn't run since.
Does that sound like a bad injector??? White smoke usually indicates water doesn't it??? It could have had some condensation, but the tank was drained a year ago and hasn't run since.
luckyfarmer
New User
Hi there. I wonder if I can ask a question related to the original post.
I own a 1967 John Deere 5020. Recently, I replaced the steering valve as it was leaking a lot. While it was out, I decided to rebuild the throttle mechanism and replaced components that had significant slack in them. I then went on to adjust the mechanism and noticed that there was a lot of play on the throttle linkage on the injection pump, i.e.: the handle on the side of the pump has to move quite a bit (without significant change in RPMs) between low idle and shut off. As a result, I am unable to adjust the mechanism so that the tractor can be put at high RPMs and be shut off with the handle throttle within the same adjustment.
The first question is: is this a problem with the lever on the side of the injection pump? If so, can it be adjusted? Is the problem somewhere else within the throttle mechanism (I have been adjusting it according to the service manual). I have not had any problems with the pump and do not want to spend a $1000 on a new one. Please help. Thank you.
I own a 1967 John Deere 5020. Recently, I replaced the steering valve as it was leaking a lot. While it was out, I decided to rebuild the throttle mechanism and replaced components that had significant slack in them. I then went on to adjust the mechanism and noticed that there was a lot of play on the throttle linkage on the injection pump, i.e.: the handle on the side of the pump has to move quite a bit (without significant change in RPMs) between low idle and shut off. As a result, I am unable to adjust the mechanism so that the tractor can be put at high RPMs and be shut off with the handle throttle within the same adjustment.
The first question is: is this a problem with the lever on the side of the injection pump? If so, can it be adjusted? Is the problem somewhere else within the throttle mechanism (I have been adjusting it according to the service manual). I have not had any problems with the pump and do not want to spend a $1000 on a new one. Please help. Thank you.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Welcome to YT
It appears dieseltech addressed you question on Tractor Talk forum. I think your tractors problem is in the linkage in the fuel inj pump.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy