John deere 2755 or 5410

Need some opinions on these 2 tractors. Looking at a John deere 2755 with 6700 hours cab and no loader for $14000. And a 2001 John deere 5410 with a 1 year old westendorf loader on it for 15500. The 5410 has 2198 hours on it. Needing a 75-85 hp tractor mainly for disc mowing and raking hay and backup baler tractor. Would like the loader tho on the 5410. Any advice would be appreciated
 
Tim - Why? Just asking because I am struggling on a new equipment purchase as well and 2955's and the like are becoming a possibility to stay out of machines with computers.
 
If it checks out I'd go with the 2755. I think you'll find the 5410 is a much lighter built tractor. The 40-50-55 series under 100 HP Deeres were for the most part very good machines.

Al
 
For your intended uses, the 5510 should do fine. but especially if you really do intend loader work, be sure you get the synchronized transmission, better yet the power reverser transmission. Front wheel assist too. There's no good cab available for the 5510. On the 2755 you may not be able to get just the right transmission option you need.
 
Yes, it's usually a pretty solid transmission. It was made by Yanmar's drivetrain division, Kanzaki, in Japan. There's been some problem with the earlier ones, mostly pre-"10" series, with the park pawl and some problem with the shift lever linkages. With the synch shift transmission, you shuttle by going back and forth from 2nd gear to reverse. While this is a synchronized shift, unless you're respectful of the dry clutch, you could run into clutch problems. Don't ride the clutch nor slip it too much and keep it properly adjusted. My memory is slipping, but if the power reverser were available in that tractor, then you would have a more robust hydraulic wet clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 07:13:21 01/04/17) Need some opinions on these 2 tractors. Looking at a John deere 2755 with 6700 hours cab and no loader for $14000. And a 2001 John deere 5410 with a 1 year old westendorf loader on it for 15500. The 5410 has 2198 hours on it. Needing a 75-85 hp tractor mainly for disc mowing and raking hay and backup baler tractor. Would like the loader tho on the 5410. Any advice would be appreciated

I had a 5410 with 4wd and a loader for about 10 years. It was a good solid tractor and I never had any problems with it.
 
I did a lot of bush hogging and it was pretty good with fuel. I ran an 8 foot most of the time but sometimes a 10 foot in open pasture. Pulled both great. I had all of the tires full of fluid to help keep me upright on these Tennessee hills.
 
Many reasons not to like them and 2955's especially,, you will find 29's cheap and getting cheaper,,I know a lot on here get along Okay with them, but I won't work on them any more,,just too frustrating to deal with.Local dealers won't except them on trades around here....go with a Waterloo style,,4040,4240,4440..much better machines no electronics,,solid systems..
 
Pretty hard to find a 2955 here for under 20k. Their value is holding steady and even creeping up a bit,not as fast as a Waterloo tractor, but more than most any other make of the era. Ben
 
Yeah I was kinda wanting something that's gonna
be better on fuel than my 4020 and take a lot of
work off it since it's my only tractor
 
hotflashjr; What Tims is trying to politely tell people is that potential for major repairs are much higher on a JD Mannheim designed tractor. You can spend thousands of dollars easily on trying to repair the hydraulic systems on these tractors. Yes dealers will ask high dollars for a JD 2950 or 2955 but most around here sure will not give it for one.
 
In it day the JD 2755 was a great tractor but with every single one of them having a 30 year old hydraulic system on them you can easily have a multi thousand dollar repair waiting just around the corner for you. When the JD 5000 series tractors came out I did not like them. They have proven to be a pretty good tractor. Are they as good/rugged as a JD Waterloo built tractor??? NO!!! But they are as good or better than just about any modern utility tractor out there.

I have a JD 5210 that I would bit it would start right this minute even not plugged in. It is 4 degrees here. None of my old JD Waterloo tractors would do that.

The JD 5410 are a good tractor. They have an open center hydraulic system that is not as peppy as the close center one BUT it is ten times as easy to work on and rarely caused any issues. I have never had to do anything other than replace pressure relief valves on one. They are a pretty simple rugged machine.

Now a JD 5410 is a strong 65 PTO HP tractor. IF your wanting some thing closer to your older JD 4020 then you need a JD 5510 but for just general chore work the JD 5410 is not a bad tractor.
 
JD I am mainly wanting a tractor to do all the cutting and raking with and the plus side is that it's got a loader. Used to do it all with the 4020 but it's getting up there in hours and I think this would be a good little tractor to have around. How many hours are average to high for these. This one has a little over 2000 hours
 
2000 hours on one of these is low hours to me. I have just over 3000 on my JD 5210 and have had zero issues with it.

To give you an idea of what hours you can get on a tractor. My 1993 JD 6400 has just over 17500 hours. The engine had the head gasket replaced with the head reworked at 16,000 hours. The rest is original.
 
Thanks Tim & JD. Would you venture to issue the same warning on 4055 size tractors of that era or in general they have less issues in the hydraulic department?
 
(quoted from post at 08:01:56 01/05/17) Thanks Tim & JD. Would you venture to issue the same warning on 4055 size tractors of that era or in general they have less issues in the hydraulic department?

JD rowcrop tractors such as 4055 have a much better/easier to diagnose/repair hyd system than their utility Dubuque/Mannheim built cousins.
 
bowhunter- I have a 5400 MFWD with 540 loader, 2365 hours, synchro trans. I like it a lot, as mentioned, it will start cold really well and an hour on the block heater will start anytime. The shifting with loader work is fine, I should check my linkage for wear.

As for pulling a mower/conditioner, I got a ton of advice last year when I upgraded to a JD 920, that my 5400 was not enough tractor, that I needed 4020 on up. I am fortunate that all our land is relatively flat and have been able to get along with the 5400. I may not be pulling it fast enough to mow the best, and it does need full throttle plus so it seems a little thirsty. Fortunately, I'm a small time hobby farmer, (really more of a fetish farmer), and I am willing to run this combo for a few years until the kids are out of college.

My other heavily-used tractor is the 2355N we use in the vineyard. That has been the best tractor I have ever owned, super strong and reliable. Admittedly I have little experience on others. I could only hope the 2755 would be similar, but the advice of the other gentlemen who have responded in this thread is FAR better than mine. They have the words of the true heavy-hitters of the JD expertise around here, and should be heeded if possible.

I have been wish-list watching online, and have found a couple of JD 6200s for sale that look like they would fit your bill as well as mine, have you seen any of these, or had any advice on them?
 
Totally different system in a 4055, and when you have an issue with a 4055 you can sort it out quickly, and "Successfully" repair it. On the 2755 systems which are the same as the early 2020 utility's,,there are many wear points in the system that allows charge oil to get away,,cracked distribution pipes, the o-rings on these pipes, the sealing rings on the component shafts along with wear in the actual transmission,,the trans pump must build and hold pressure on all these points before the regulating valve in the top cover will let oil flow on to satisfy the front pump,"all" the oil that the system pumps goes up and back out of the top shift cover,, So as the little leaks start to happen, a bit at a time, the flow stops to the front pump,,and this usually happens when things start to warm up to a normal operating temperature, the Hydraulics suddenly go dead..first thing that most people think is the front pump failed,,but actually it just quit receiving oil so it can't work..There are several ways to start to sort out your problem, first checking the sump screen and filter, and when you check the filter make sure the tension cone is still in the filter bowl, when this is missing the filter will spin in the bowl and tear the end rubber seal off the filter sending shredded rubber on through the circuit,,check the filter relief valve, check for how it works with the PTO on/off,,Hi Low on/off, and make sure that the oil flow to the front pump is still not flowing,and if all that checks out split and start inspecting the trans pump and pipes.
 
Good reason to stay away from those machines now that they are going on 30 years old. I know this had been talked about a bit before with the 50 & 55 utility tractors but was thinking that once you got to 100 HP range it was different. Thanks for the info Tim!

And thank you bowhunter for letting me partially hi-jack your thread. I think some of the info I am looking for should help you on your new tractor quest though!
 
And I am not "Bashing" these models to be mean and Nasty,,I am just stating the facts that I have been exposed to,, When these little tractors are good they are Great,,but when they go Bad they are very bad,,and very difficult to diagnose,,many times you can chase your tail for days,, then finally find the issue causing the problem that can be repaired. When I worked at the Dealership back in the 70's we sold a bunch of 2030/2440,s and 28/29's,,I have handled about any issue that they can toss at you,,I learned to dis-like them from the beginning,, but i am still ready to share what I know about them along with the others on here to help some one get through the problems that they give..
 
Well guys I bought the 5410 today. They came down to $14900 so I took it. I really like it so far. Hopefully it'll treat me good. I am the second owner and looks well taken care for.
 
Same here. There weren't as many 40s and 50s but when the 55s came out and especially the 4-posters came along they were and still are REALLY popular here. They were great for tobacco with a extra wide front axle. Our 2940 has had a few internal hydraulic leak issues (more brake jobs than anything else) over the years, but it has been a fantastic tractor for us and did literally everything in the field for a number of years until we got a 4255 to help it out.

Al
 
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Wish I were seeing MFWD, but lacking that option, be sure to hang lots of weight on the 3-point when doing loader work. If she's not been mistreated, serviced according to recommendations and you do the same, she should provide lots of years of good service. It would take big $ but with a complete MFWD front axle, driveshaft and control linkages, she could be converted to MFWD. I have a soft spot in my heart for the 5000 series - started work on them 5 years before the start on production in '92 at Augusta. The 4-cylinder 5500 was a couple of years later. It took a while to convince the "powers that be" to do it.
 
What's that bar or bungie cord that goes from one leg of the ROPS to the other, the one just behind where the operator's head is. Whatever it is, I'd sure get it off there.
 
That was a bungie cord. I put 11 hours on it so far. Seems to be a good little tractor. Be perfect for raking and moving hay this summer
 
There is no doubt that they are a handy size little tractor,,and as I have always said when they are good they are great...
 

Sorry to revive an old thread but I have a few questions. I am looking at buying a 1998 5410 w/loader, 2 wd, open station on Thur. Have you been happy with the tractor? From what I'm seeing the remotes are a bit different on these tractors. At least different than the newer ones. My understanding is these came with 2 sets of remotes that were on the rear of the tractor and were then routed to the loader. Is this correct? Are there additional remotes for implements? If I want to add a third function for a grapple is this doable? I'm fond of the factory 3rd functions built into the loader joystick. Nice, simple, and all easily within reach.

Any pearls of wisdom you can give? General thoughts? Warnings?

Thanks

Keith

Off the bat I want to run a cutter, 7 or 8 ft, and an auger.
 

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