fixerupper
Well-known Member
How fussy do I need to be with the ring end gap on a late B? IT manual shows .025-.035. The rings I have measure roughly .022. One oil ring measures .020. Block has been bored .090. Fresh bore, new pistons.
- Thread starter fixerupper
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I think hastings rings website says .003-.004 per 1 inch of cylinder diameter. So yours just make it as they are.
How much piston skirt clearance do you have and what type of pistons. At .090 I'm guessing alum. IIRC cast iron (factory ones) need .005-.006 and alum need more maybe .010-.012 ?? minimum.
How much piston skirt clearance do you have and what type of pistons. At .090 I'm guessing alum. IIRC cast iron (factory ones) need .005-.006 and alum need more maybe .010-.012 ?? minimum.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
Aluminum. Side clearance is .006
fixerupper
Well-known Member
Oh yes, pistons come from Reliance. I don't know who makes them.
If it is indeed only .006 then I'm thinking that is too tight for aluminum pistons. Got a way to measure the bore ? Usually if the bore to 4 11/16" plus the .090" it works out correctly as the proper clearance is to be built into the pistons. Maybe they went a little shy on the bore dia. ? Or perhaps these days the pistons are not to any set standard ?
There was a fellow Hinrich's repair to advertised in gm and 2 cyl. selling pistons. This fellow was a wealth of knowledge. He helped me out a few times. If you can find his number it would be worth a call to ask a few questions about clearances too. I worked on a lot of these B's before, but not for awhile now.
There was a fellow Hinrich's repair to advertised in gm and 2 cyl. selling pistons. This fellow was a wealth of knowledge. He helped me out a few times. If you can find his number it would be worth a call to ask a few questions about clearances too. I worked on a lot of these B's before, but not for awhile now.
teddy52food
Well-known Member
Too tight. I always bored them a couple thousands over when using aluminum pistons.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
I might buzz the machine shop, Arnold Motors in Spencer Ia. They did this one and have done a bunch of two banger blocks and have a good reputation but nobody is perfect. I measured the skirt clearance by slipping the skirt into the bore just a bit because the rings are already on. A .006 feeler gauge was snug enough that I could slide it in with pretty good resistance. When I slid the Pistons in the bores before I put rings on they had some side slop but I'm not experienced enough to be able to go by feel and I made the dumb mistake of not using a feeler gauge at that time. I'm not equipped to accurately measure the bore. Arnold's got the Pistons for me.
I have a late B with .045 cast pistons. I had it bored before I had my own measuring equipment. Tractor has always ran GREAT but when really warmed up I get wee bit of blow by so I always wondered about it. One time I pulled the top cover off and slide a feeler gage in from back while everything is all together and got a .010 IIRC to go in. As I suspected they bored it to match aluminum pistons ! They even had the ones I used when they bored it. I think many shops might go too loose as that will cause less issues than too tight. I fear yours could be too tight especially when worked hard it may want to lock ?
fixerupper
Well-known Member
I might pull the rings back off and slide the piston all the way in, then measure. I don't want problems.
I'd feel better for you if it had at least .010 piston skirt to cyl. wall clearance. Maybe it does with a more accurate measure ? The widest spot on the pistons is usually at the bottom which is end farthest away from cyl, head. And opposite direction of which the piston pin goes in.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
The block and Pistons are going back to the machine shop. When I picked up the Pistons at this same machine shop the box had not been opened.
Machinery-Man
Well-known Member
From experience had machine shop bore a B got the bore too tight...when I installed the pistons they fit good "aluminum type" when engine warmed up it was the quietest B I'd ever seen but had no power. Had to pull the pistons and go back to cast iron. After that I never messed with machine shops again on boring just used worn blocks new rings on cast pistons and never had any problems. I always stayed away from what I call "automotive" rings and strickly used the John Deere rings and John Deere pistons. More clearance doesn't hurt a thing. The actual wear to the cylinder is in the upper part of bore and main thing is to get the grove cleared so it doesn't break the rings or ring lands. I Used a dreimal or small grinding wheel and evened it off. If checking bore go to rear as there is no wear there...
old popper
Well-known Member
When I had my G bored, I had "Hinrich" pistons. I sent them along with their instructions, and the block to the machine shop. That has been 20+ years ago so I don't remember any of the details. I used a machine shop in Sioux Falls, SD.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
OK, after all the commotion I pulled the rings from one piston, slid it in the bore the way it should be and it measured .010. Good to go. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.
If you can stick a .010 feeler gauge in there than I'd say it should be fine. Well worth all the commotion as after it is stuck back together it's too late. LOL. I was looking at different specs. the B says .005-.009 in the I&T. the 520-530 is a little more confusing as those pistons must be more oval shaped ? IIRC the tightest specs. were .0045-.0075 ? less than I thought.
IIRC on some other B's my last and best machine shop was giving me around .006 for cast iron pistons. With some breaking in and not max. loading it you should work out fine. Don't run it lean or run out of gas while breaking in either. I had one run low on gas and by the time I got more and almost to the tractor it started dying off and locked up. It quickly freed back up and was good for more, thank god !
IIRC on some other B's my last and best machine shop was giving me around .006 for cast iron pistons. With some breaking in and not max. loading it you should work out fine. Don't run it lean or run out of gas while breaking in either. I had one run low on gas and by the time I got more and almost to the tractor it started dying off and locked up. It quickly freed back up and was good for more, thank god !
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