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4020 Steering problem

R

Richard G.

Well-known Member
My son's 1972 4020 when traveling down the road will jump from steering to much to one side and when you try to steer back it over corrects too much the other way. It is the powershift model and he thinks there is a problem with the steering valve under the instrument panel.
Here is my opinion. When you have the wheels straight forward, the steering arms are not pointing straight back on top of the spindles.
They look like this. " / " I think this causes it to jump and oversteer. When you make a sharp turn in the field, one wheel turns normal and the other is turned way too sharp and is pushing sideways and pushing up soil. Any ideas? Thanks, Richard
 
Sorry, the one arm points to the left and the other points to the right. I think they should point straight forward.
 
Has the spindle been removed from the steering motor and not been timed correcty when it was reassembled? Are both tie rods the same lenth? The spindle arms should not be straight back. They should angle out toward the tire some. Have you tried bleeding the steering system?
 
This is the way it was when he bought it several years ago. So we don't know what has been done to it.
 
My Guess is that the steering motor needs re-sealed,,as long as the front wheels are lined up to near 1/8" toe-in it should guide down the road okay, the mis-aliened tie rod arms are that way because the spindle shaft has "twisted" from hitting something along the way(like a big ol'tile blow-out, or that darn stump in the weeds),you can correct a twisted spindle a bit by re-aliening the tie rods,,but this will affect the full left or right steer a bit,,if the steering pinion is off a tooth that lock to lock travel will be off a "bunch". When the steer motor seals go bad it allows the pressure to leak away on one side or the other as your going down the road this causes the steering to feel like it's un-hooked,(it shows up more on the road because of the speed) when you get your re-seal kit be sure to get the large lower seal too,it don't come in the kit, and most parts counter guys don't know about it....
 
Yes, to repair it the front end needs to come off and a side frame rail removed, there are two 'plugs' that need to come out and the lower pinion dropped down, the pinion gear is heavey and may break loose hard(becarful not to pry on the lower steer pipes),when it comes loose it's all at once, so be ready for it,I have converted an old truck trans jack to deal with them,there is a timing prosedure and a couple of little tricks to get this all to happen "safely" that I will share with you when you get started on it...
 

Just wanted to get an idea of how big of a job it is to rebuild the steering motor AND repair the steering valve. How much will it cost at a John Deere dealer.
 
finding someone a at a deere dealer that can repair a steering valve on a 20 series tractor be hard to come by gay at my local dealer no long works i done a few. cost at 100 buck a hr. best bet tim or a rebuilt one now steering motor not all that big of deal except getting it out some remove from the bottom.. i like most things do it different remove radiator oil cooler fuel tank front guard and the pan that covers the hy pump and steering valve right side support. one reason for me it easier also then you get all the dirt trash the has built up for past 50 years out while at it yu can check your steering hyd pump couplers .
this is from Abilene machine out ks. this late model but the early model are the same cost.
Remanufactured Steering Column Assembly
Part Number: SV4020L-R
Applications: All Units with Side Console Hydraulics ONLY - 3020 Late, 4020 Late, 4320, 4520, 4620, 6030

Price Includes $250.00 Core Charge
Your Price: $1175.00
Quantity
 
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