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52 B - No Spark Update

H

HWRC

Member
First, thanks to all who responded!! During all of the readjusting, tightening, etc it started to fire?!? I don't know what the problem was, but it is now running well. I do have a question though. This tractor was converted to 12V with an alternator and positive start sometime in its past. It has what appears to be an original (not original to the tractor) ballast resister (1.1 ohm disconnected) in line before the coil (12V with external resistence with 1.8ohm resistence disconnected). I am getting 12v all the way to the points (open). Should this ballast resister not drop the voltage to 6v? Also, is this the correct setup?
 
Most alternators require NEGATIVE Ground while the tractor was original POsitive.

If its now 12 volt but you use a 6 volt coil, the series voltage dropping (12 to 6) ballast resistor (typical 1+ to 2 ohms) wired between ignition switch and coil input should drop around 5 to 7 volts leaving around 6 on the 6 volt coil BUT ONLY WHEN THE POINST ARE CLOSED. If the points are OPEN it will read battery voltage on BOTH sides of coil.

The ballast resistor cant drop any I x R Voltage if points are open and I = 0 !!!!!!!!!!!

For Neg ground the coil should wire + to ignition/ballast with - to distributor.

If I missed anything the other gents hopefully will add to this

John T
 
John T - thanks for your replies. It appears that the wiring is correct then, but would a 6v coil be better in this setup. The tractor has been rather hard on points through the years. I already had your troubleshooting guideline. GREAT guideline for guys like me!!
 
What you already have IS a six volt coil. It just says it's a 12 volt coil for use with an external resistor on it. Otherwise known as a 6 volt coil. I much prefer to call out the ohms of a coil because 1.5 range ohms = six volt coil no matter what it says on the side of it and 3 ohms is a genuine 12 volt coil that doesn't need the resistor. Zero confusion for me that way.
 
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